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Routes in Dream Dome
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A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Brief Waste of Time (submitted as Unknown between Brief History & Timeless) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Air Bud V2- 5+ |
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Broken Dreams V1 5 |
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Disillusioned Reality T A3 |
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Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Down, Not Out V3 6A |
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Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jake's Problem V1-2 5 |
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Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13 |
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Peanut Butter Doobie Time V0- 4- PG13 |
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Phantasmagoria T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C0 |
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Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Short Dreams V0 4 |
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Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+ |
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Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Whippers in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wrinkled Glass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Hayden Robinson |
| Page Views: | 1,956 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Hayden robinson on May 30, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Climb to the third bolt of Tales of Power, and continue to the base of the roof. #1.5 and 0.75 Camalots protect the next move which steps out on to the roof with a #0.5 Friend. The rest of the crack looks ripe for the smallest of slider nuts. I only had one that worked, so I found a bomber placement and reached as far as I could to hammer the fixed Bugaboo which I stacked with a Lost Arrow. From the pins, you can load up the crack with a range of technical Friends. From these, there are grappling hook and cam hook placements through the face of the dihedral to the crack in the small roof (0.5 cam). Follow the line of weakness. A 00 C3 protects the runout to the anchor of Tales of Power.
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