Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Old Climbingboulder.com Articles

  [ Forums > Discuss MountainProject.com ]
  
View Latest Posts in this Forum     Page 1 of 1.  

 
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

I had a bunch of miscellaneous pictures, photos, surveys that were on climbingboulder.com that never really fit in with the new mountainproject.com. It's just as well, since it was probably only entertaining to me and Ben to read it. However, for posterity's sake I've decided to throw them on here in this thread.

It's got the very beginning, the technical details when we ran on a Pentium II, it's got Sven, the mountainweb lawsuit threats, and other hidden gems.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

[Our Story Page]

Our Story

Please Understand that this is quite rough around the edges, and still in progress. Additionally, our mothers would not approve of some of our verbage. And, if you are one of our mothers, please stop reading now, until we can clean it up. - The Management


On Januay 22, 2000, Ben "Number 1" Mottinger, Ben "Number 2" Schneider, and Myke Komarnitsky awoke to a beautiful winter day in Boulder. It was warm, and they headed up to Eldorado Canyon, and up to the West Ridge. They had Richard Rossiter's classic book, Boulder Climbs South. They began hiking up the ridgeline, looking for Positively 4th Street. It took them 10 minutes to find the route. As #2 prepared to climb, Myke said aloud, "what about building our own climbing guide, online?" And the clouds parted and angels descended in song on golden chariots.

Myke came home and started work on the site. He came up with a simple site architecture that had a directory for each area, directories in those for each rock within that area, and then another directory for each route. The navigation bar had a link for each route on the page. It was hosted at http://rtt.colorado.edu/~komarnit/climbing/, so on CU-Boulder computers.

Ben and Myke then pulled in Shaun Miller to help on the project and give a non-engineering student perspective to the project. Brainstorming together, we made some terrific refinements to the route page.

We would meet people when climbing, and tell them about the site. Our numbers swelled - we were getting 20 hits on the home page a day! Slowly our routes increased - having every route on the navigation, when you have THIRTY WHOLE ROUTES is obviously a poor system. So with a bit of trepidation, we switched our navigation over to having only the rocks listed.

The project became a learning one, in many dimensions. First, it became clear that we were going to have to get a lot better technically. Tools and features slowly were added we pulled from others, asked for help, or just struggled until we figured it out ourselves. Our ideas for what the site could be were always way beyond what we could do at the time. Example:

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2001 01:54:36 -0600
To: Ben Mottinger , Shaun Miller
Subject: Re: New logo

What would really be the shit, is if the server would parse everything that gets sent out(it already does, what with the server side includes and stuff) ,.... and every time it saw the phrase "Ben Mottinger" it would replace it with Ben Mottinger .... plus our emails, you know, and like anytime we mention another route. That would be the absolute shit. I just don't know how to get that yet.... but might be a possibility.



So obviously my word choices are poor, but in the interest of integrity and authenticity I leave it as it is. New tools, like a contact form and a guestbook, came on the site. The front page was a still, static image of Ben climbing Sneak Preview, a 5.11c in Bear Canyon.

Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 18:46:27 -0700 (MST)
From: Ben Mottinger
To: Michael Komarnitsky
Subject: Re: web site

I think we should edit that front image so that we take out the rope and harness so it looks like I'm soloing it.



I became very adept at annoying the hell out of Ben and Shaun with emails.

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2001 02:07:36 -0600
To: Ben Mottinger , Shaun Miller
Subject: Re: New logo
Ah, what the hell, I'll keep rambling.
If we are serious about this(not in the 40+ hours/week thing, but rather a few hours a week) there's a lot of issues to consider.
1) one of us cheap asses buying a digital camera - which will probably fall to trust fund baby me. :-)
2) registering a domain, instead of the current one. ex. www.bouldercilmbs.com (available, I checked). They cost somehwere like $70 for a year... pretty reasonable.
3) if it's not on a school computer then... well then, we can possibly put advertising on the web site. Not much revenue, I don't think, but a possibility.
4) I have some seriously cool ideas (search engine, submission method for others more advanced database stuff), but I'm limited in my ability to implement them. maybe we need someone else who's more of a hard core programmer who we know?
5) Once the site's more ready, how to get the word out? I was thinking emailing the local newspapers somehow... also the COdaily has a girl who writes articles in the sports section each week about climbing - emailing her.
6) Some bio stuff about us - IE you click on KMM productions, and it goes to a page about us.
7) we need a disclaimer front and center so we don't get in trouble for somebody dying.
8) Shit, we need to get more fucking climbs in!!! (if shaun ever gets his shoes)

That's what I'm thinking about right now. I think this is, seriously, a very good idea we have here. It's one of those things where I show people, and *everyone* says, "that's a *really* good idea."
I know, I'm a little tired and so overly optimistic. Cut me some slack. I've got the whole vision shit going.... are you guys seeing some of the same thing, or am I way off base here? (ok, what the hell, let's dream. why not expand - white water rafting. paint ball. mountain climbs. mountain biking. skydiving. ie we're rating the different opportunities to do things, and giving advice about where to do it, etc... I know I know, that part's a dream.... but it does sound cool.)

Ramblings,
Myke



Hell, I was dreaming. Still, I think it's interesting to see the vision back then, and how well we've realized the dream. Here's another email; when Ben and Myke took CSCI 6838, User Interface Design, in Spring of 2001, it was interesting to see that many of the principles discussed there we had been thinking about for over a year.

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2001 21:04:36 -0600
To: Miller Shaun
Cc: Ben

There are three bolts up the route, and two chains at the top. Sorry.
I'll figure out the real names as soon as you fix my pute. teehee.

Cool.

By the way, you're "buildering section is all f-ed up. Is that still in progress?

Should look a LOT better now, the last two days I've busted it out.

How's those pages coming?

Also, I think you, Ben, and I should sit down with a six pack and a computer.... we need to talk about two things: 1) Now that we have a few pages up, what does someone who's coming to the page really interested in? (ie your point about TR info, sources vs. references) I thought a little bit before I did it, but I think we should really talk about what would be useful.

2) Ben's working on the page for the areas. Again, what SHOULD be on this page? Ben can think about it and then put it up, and then we can review and improve upon it once Ben's done the hard work.

Also, I think we should tell whoever else we can think of(Ben Schneider, Laura, Chere, your bouldering buddry) to check out the site, and give us the same feedback: is it useful? What is most useful? What was confusing? Were there typos? What else would be cool about it? etc ad naseum.
Word,
Myke

We also started meeting people through the site. Patrick Vernon we met through the dorms, and supplied us with a lot of initial beta for Lumpy Ridge. He also turned into our resident hardman, able to lead on trad climbs that we only laughed at even toproping. We met some people from Colorado Mountain Club another day, who ended up helping us out with some free maps and other stuff.

We also learned about lawsuits. We had this page up, only to have the CEO of the company threaten us with Defamation of Character. I apologized to Chuck, and removed the page. Unfortunately, Mountainweb.com is no longer in business.

Time came to actually get a real domain. After some searching, we decided upon BoulderClimbing.com. However, when I was registering the name with Network Solutions, I accidentally typed in ClimbingBoulder.com. Whoops. The result was that.






Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 00:10:57 -0700 (MST)
From: Ben Mottinger
To: Michael Komarnitsky
Subject: Re: mountainweb.com

Nice entry. Yeah, %$@! those guys. Their flatirons database really sucks. That reminds me--when your camera gets here, we're going to have to take a 1/2 day and do Eldo and the flatirons (3rd and 1st) especially. Our page just isn't complete w/out the flatirons.

B



Yeah, a bunch of fools.

From: "Quinn Stevens"
To:
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 23:27:15 -0700

Myke,

I thought your posting of the trials and tribulations with mountainnerds.com was hilarious. I noticed a few routes that you detail which I have been on, and again, it looks awesome. We should try to heat out again this weekend... let me know what your schedule is like. Also, with respect to your site, I'd be happy to go to an area that I know pretty well (Dream Canyon, Sheerwood, Easter Rock, Clear Creek) and help you out getting beta, etc.

Talk to ya,
Quinn

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

[We almost got sued because we put this on our front page. Apparently calling someone a "tool" is defamation of character.]

We Pissed off Mountainweb.com!


Upon a recommendation to check out their area betas, we checked them out. They're pretty terrible, in our opinion. So, we decided to tell them.... by posting a message on their message board. There were only two postings on the board, both by "Charles J. Quinton." So I added another

"Your area betas kind of suck. For a little more detail, check out http://rtt.colorado.edu/." [Paraphrased, I don't know the original.]

Well, the next day, I received this email from "Chuck," the CEO of mountainweb.

From: "MountainWeb" chuck@mountainweb.com
To: Myke
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 10:27:05 -0700

I hope you have something better to do than slam other websites. Sincerely, Charles J. Quinton CEO MountainWeb, Inc. 303-462-3677 fax 303-462-3723 www.mountainweb.com

ok, so maybe I'm a jerk. But I thought it was funny that the CEO had the time to respond. Now that's customer service. Of course, I wanted to see what I wrote that made him so mad. Chuck had been busy at work though; my message on their site had been erased. Damn! It seemed appropriate for me to make amends to Chuck for my insensitivity. I knew they were looking to pay people for flatirons beta info.

From: Myke
To:"MountainWeb" chuck@mountainweb.com
Subject: Re:
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 14:33:09 -0700

Alright dude, whatever. I'm just being honest, your area betas are pretty weak. I hear you're looking for some for the flatirons. We got em.

See ya
Myke


Unfortunately, that just ticked him off more.

From: "MountainWeb" chuck@mountainweb.com
To: Myke
Subject: Re:
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 14:33:09 -0700

Mr. Brooks notified me that you might be in touch and that you might be interested in being paid for some of your information. At this time, we are unwilling to work with you. You don't insult someone TWICE when you're asking for money. PS. We're adding over 20 routes today and we'll have a comprehensive guide up by week's end.

I guess that PS comment was supposed to make us feel bad... or something. Whatever. In our opinion, he's a tool. If you would like to comment on his bulletin board, you can Here.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

Looking through these, it reminds me that I was a pretty immature 21 year old. Good thing I've grown up.... right?

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

We got really involved in the chipping controversy a few years after some chipped routes showed up on the site.

-------------

Position Statement, written on behalf of climbingboulder.com

After careful deliberation, Climbingboulder.com has decided to delineate routes known to be manufactured in our online database of natural Colorado climbs with a doorway page explainging our stance on the issue. The reasons are manifold, yet all stem from our basic belief that the altering of the rock via blatant hold manufacture, be it with a hammer or a pneumatic drill, is antithetical to the spirit of climbing. In fact, to the vast majority of the Colorado climbing community, it is anathema.

The validity of this stance is backed by a very demonstrable consensus. A recent poll of Boulder climbers about the bolt wars in Boulder Canyon revealed that 243 out of 255 climbers either disagreed or strongly disagreed that the chipping of holds on new cliffs should be permitted. A Yahoo poll conducted of contributors to this site produced similar results. And finally, climbing advocacy groups like the Access Fund and the American Alpine Club have their own anti-chipping policies in place, not to mention the fact that many equipment manufacturers such as Metolius no longer sponsor climbers known to be chippers.

With so many talented climbers and so much potential for cutting-edge new routes in Colorado it is unfortunate that a handful of climbers are still resorting to this base and vile practice, a practice that robs climbers both future and present of the chance to experience the rock in an unaltered state. As one climber so eloquently put it, "Publicity lends legitimacy." We feel that by making it more difficult to access these routes on the site we're stripping them of the publicity they never quite deserved in the first place.

- Local Climber
November 4, 2001
What will not be classified as modified:
Actions taken to preserve a route, such as stabilizing a hold with glue (as long as the intent and effect is not to make the hold better or easier for a climber), while ethical arguable, will not be classified as a modified route. Secondly, issues of safety, such as bolting a rock, take a higher priority and will not be classified as modified routes in this database.

A route that has modified holds, and then climbed free without using those modified holds, will not be classified as modified. This does not justify filling in the modified hold or altering the rock further. This issue, in particular, is still under discussion. If you'd like to weigh in, please do.

If you feel we've made a mistake:
If you feel this route has been misidentified, please add your comment to that route explaining your reasons respectfully, but thoroughly. We do read every comment that's added in that way. If your argument has validity, we will remove the modified route classification.

What about aid climbing?
Aid climbing is well known for modifying rock. Many famous routes have recognizable pin scars. We recognize aid climbing as a valid form of climbing, and it's modification of the rock, while regrettable, is unavoidable for that type of climbing. However, an aid climb can be classified as modified as well.

"In this case[Aid Climbing], the rock is deliberately altered to facilitate progress, but without actually placing an honest bolt (or bailing). This would include the idea of enlarging hook placements for ease of use ("enhancing" is the euphemism of choice used by these folks). Trenching copperheads, ie drilling shallow slots which will accept copperheads (especially effective in blind corners which look like they maybe, just maybe could have had real placements), is another way to "chip" aid climbs. The intention is to alter the rock deliberately to satisfy one's ego, this time to artificially lower the bolt-count on a line. -- Stephen "Crusher" Bartlett

Are there any Resources Available to read more on this issue?
The Blacklist (actual list of climbs)
Access Fund Stance
Local Surveys
More Surveys
Email List Discussion
Fiddler on the Woof (more discussion)

This whole idea is COMPLETELY off base!
Really? well, then tell us how. We always want our stance on this issue to be more rigorous and consistent, and if you've seen an error in our position, please let us know! Just try to be constructive - insults, intimidation, and condescension don't work very well...

Does this mean that I can clean lichen off anywhere I want?
No. This stance, and the below image, is not meant to explain what is appropriate or inappropriate action for all areas. Rather, this is merely an explanation of our classification systemn for routes termed as "modified". Indeed, in many locations, cleaning lichen, pulling off loose blocks, or gardening can result in a fine or even jail! Above and byeond our stance here, climbers in general should adhere to the Leave No Trace ethic whenever possible, to minimize impact on the areas we are enjoying.




Feedback We've Been Getting Regarding This

COMMENTS I am just responding to the chipping stance, and I approve of it. I believe that not putting chipped routes on the site just sweeps the problem under the rug. The problem needs to be adressed, and there needs to be some way to find out what is chipped/drilled. This way I could have avoided one of my most dissapointing days of climbing ever, when I grabbed a drilled pocket on a route that I otherwise was enjoying. I found a way to do the sequence without the pocket, but have never gone back to the route only because it is drilled. I want a place in which I can find out if a route is drilled before I get on the route. None of the guidebooks say anything about the drilling.

COMMENTS I like it! Awsome way of handling those routes.

COMMENTS climbingboulder is your (and I suppose your friends') website. For people to accuse you guys of being dictatorial, etc. is absurd. Of course you can be dictatorial with your own site! Its yours. Anyway, you have gone out of your way to accomodate other view points and I'm sure you're well aware of this. You guys are doing a fine job with the site. You are being far more tolerant than I would on the chipping issue. Chippers fit the same psychological profile as people that would use liposuction instead of excersise to improve their appearance.

COMMENTS After not looking at your site for a while I was suprised and thrilled to note an anti chipping stance being taken. I had thought that chipping was an acepted practice amongst modern climbers. Just goes to show how out of touch I am. As long as the people who maintain this site can see thier way to a nonadvocacy of chipping, let me see if I can open your mind to an attidude I have always held.

Why not try to climb eliminating all artificial changes to the rock. This would include leaving as much fauna as possible, after all I enjoy seeing the one flower growing out of a crack 100 feet in the air, perhaps someone next year might also. This would also include putting in no bolts. Bolts permanently alter rock and rock climbing. Climbing took a major leap forward after clean climbing came around. What has happened since is retro. Let fixed gear disappear as it breaks and falls out. Climbing on natural rock without chipped holds forces one to climb on the rocks terms, so does climbing using only protection where it is natuaraly available. For protectionless stretches of rock why not wait for standards to rise, or toprope it or never climb it. What is wrong with an unclimbed piece of rock.

I remember my disgust when bolting became a thing people did lightly. From having bolts rarely for one or two moves we went to climbs made entirely of bolts. When I first heard of chipping I thought nothing. It was just a logical extension of bolting. One changes the mental (danger) aspect of the sport, the other changes the gymnastic aspect. I have friends that have helped to make sport park. I believe them to be no more misguided than my bolting friends. They are only trying to enjoy a sport they love and to help others to enjoyit also.

When I look at the vast expanses of blank rock in canyonlands I see huge jugs, with long reaches inbetween, protected by 1/2" x 12" expansion bolts. Does that picture bring a bad taste to your mouth? So do all those bolts I see sprouting on the Bastile. I dont mean to seem absolutist, but where do you draw the line.

I have sent this message only to the people who maintain this site, because obviously you care about climbing and also your opinions resonate loudly throughout the local scene via your media. I have no intent to begin a bolt debate, I just wanted you to see a different perspective.

COMMENTS I think the 'wallowing' evolved when climbing became more recreational. Recreation is a sort of commercial way of looking our 'free' time. People are just used to buying things and now alot of climbers expect a homogenized user-friendly product to be available for them. I think most people no more consider the ethics of a particular route than they consider the ethics of a meal or a movie. It's the mainstream consumer mentality. That's why I think the debates on CLIMBINGBOULDER are beneficial-they get more people to think about it.

On the other hand the land, and the rock, is heavily impacted by people more and more so how can people get the maximum benefit from the smallest amount of rock? Recreational sportclimbing seems too generic for me to get any benefit from it. I think the uniqueness of each route offers the most value. That's why I'd like to see bolts used for anchors when needed and minimally for protection. I think there are too many routes that are minimally rewarding as 'warm-ups' or training routes but would be memorable if the leader had to think more. That's why I'm opposed to having bolts where A1 protection is available to prevent a serious fall. Furthermore- what's wrong with toproping? At Devil's Lake (Wisc) the large majority of people toprope and have plenty of safe fun. A lot of crags could have sets of anchors accessible from one warm-up sport route. Anyway we'll see what happens now. It is interesting.

COMMENTS What interests me that most at this junction is what is most functional for this website. I'd argue that we'll make our life easier, while still retaining some stance on 'manufacturing,' if glue is excluded from condemnation.

Having said this, climbing presents an interesting model for the relationship of man with the world. To some degree, we're always, inherently, in conflict with nature. There is no rational justification for our existence. I think chipping, glue, cleaning, bolts, pieces, chalk, and even shoe rubber, are technically all wrong in the context of an essentially narcissistic sport. However, because we're inevitably in this state of conflict, we have to make some distinctions, that are pretty much arbitrary. So, it's still a good endeavor to have this discussion, as it's our only valuable option.
My main point is that you failed to notify some fairly prominent participants and contributors to the web site about actions to be taken regarding their routes. I'm not going to climb chipped routes at the dog house or anywhere else and that's my choice based on information I've obtained through this site and other sources. I don't need climbingboulder.com delivering a big sermon on the subject to make that decision. Personally I think that chipped routes could be removed from the site with a lot less fanfare after discussion with the individuals who contributed them. The site needs to involve its members in shaping opinion and not simply go ahead and start dictating what's acceptable and what's not. I can only imagine what Alan Nelson, who's contributed hundreds of climbs and areas to the, adding immeasurably to its value, thought when his route was suddenly branded as chipped (however accurately) without any notice.

If you want my suggestions, I recommend that all the routes regarded as chipped be placed in an additional section for public comment before labeling them as modified. I also recommend that the "sermon" page not be added to every route but that a prominent link to it be added to the route description and that an obvious but not obnoxious "chipped" icon be added at the top of the route. All of this should be done after some kind of consensus is reached which I'll leave up to you how to decide. I think with this approach, the brouhaha would be minimized, chipped routes would be acknowledged as such, and a sense of community preserved.

COMMENTS re-attaching holds is a very tough call -- Christian Griffith re-attached a hold to The Face up at Three of a Kind on Flagstaff (tho I think it wasn't the original piece) and got tons of shit for it -- this also seems to be the case with Peter's route in Clear Creek, perhaps that's why he's a bit miffed

I'm more of the school -- if a hold falls off, fuck it, the route gets harder -- but there's also the argument for preserving a route (e.g. the Face) at its original grade and with the original holds -- I'd lean more towards this practice being somewhat fishy, much fishier than simply re-inforcing holds, but a fundamentalist like A. Nelson would probably argue that glue is glue so why make a distinction....umm, I would actually solicit Peter's ideas about this as well since I think he re-affixed a hold that fell off in Clear Creek -- I'd say it's situationally justifiable, which probably isn't a good enough stance, is it? He could probably present a good case for this type of route maintenance, and in chossy areas like Rifle or Flagstaff, it probably makes much more sense than say on granite, where holds tend to either be very attached or not so much at all

COMMENTS I'm glad to see that there has been a step taken towards confronting the problem of chipping. I'm writing to you directly for a couple reasons. ...

Another reason is that I applaud Matt Samet's willingness to be forthcoming about his own misadventures. I think the confession about chipping holds on the route in New Mexico is admirable and in that spirit I wanted to raise another subject for worthy debate but didn't know the appropriate place on the site. If I wrote this as a route description it might get missed. I decided to send it to you with the hope that you will put it wherever it belongs....
COMMENTS I think it's much more improved -- less doctrinaire with a more lenient spectrum that accounts for typical first ascent activity like trundling and the occasional use of glue. I think you nailed it "with the intent of making a route easier." Therein lies the crux of the argument, and you've voiced it well. Routes with chipped holds that have been done w/o them are still chipped routes, as far as I can tell, unless the person that frees them takes it upon themselves to repair the damage. Because likely, repeat ascents will use the chipped holds (shit, if a hold's there most of us are going to grab it!). I would still classify these as chipped.

The glue thing is interesting. All sorts of crafty things have been done with glue, but again, if the intent is to make the route easier and not to simply reinforce existing holds, then you cross the line. Adding extra glue to a hold to make it bigger, sculpting glue crimpers on crumbly rock -- these seem like manufacturing to me. Squirting a little glue behind a loose flake seems perfectly acceptable on choss rock, which is where most sport climbing takes place anyway.

I like this idea about intent. I think even a fundamentalist would have trouble refuting that argument, tho he may try.

COMMENTS Thanks for taking the stand on chipped routes. Climbing is not a number game, and it s not an amusement park, it s a game of life and a game against Mother Nature.

It provides strength for everyday survival in the world around us. It challenges our minds and our bodies at the same time. It is not usually a comp against one and another, but a competition against Mother Nature and us. Climb hard!!! But most importantly climb safe and have fun!!!

COMMENTS I see your points. I disagree. I will play the game.

Thanks for your reply.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

We used this posting for routes that were classified as "chipped" according to our rules

-------------------------------

This is a Modified Route

For some reason, this route has been classified as a modified route. The route may be an especially egregious offender, or the victim of actions which tread the line between questionable and unacceptable. To the right is our stance on a variety of actions, and the varying degrees of what we believe to be acceptable stewardship of the rock around us. Each of these actions has various degrees of extremity; therefore, the graphic is meant as a guide to judge the particular route and the circumstance around that specific instance. The graphic describes typical actions relating to free climbing, yet the classification and concern resides with aid climbing as well. The fundamental principle that deems a route to be modified is:

"If the intent and/or result of the climber's actions is to permanently modify or alter the rock with tools in order to make the route easier, the route is a modified route."

Please see our Chipping Page for a more thorough explanation of our reasons and thoughts on this issue. If you believe we've made this classification in error, please click the link below and add your reasons and thoughts there.

Myke Komarnitsky
Ben Mottinger
November 9, 2001

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

We set up a system so that you could use a palm, blackberry, or cell phone to check out the database. "Imagine yourself hanging off the edge of the Naked Edge and whipping out your cell phone to get the beta for the next pitch!"

----------

Wireless.ClimbingBoulder.com

Wireless applications have come a long way. They still have a long ways to go, in terms of true functionality and usability. Here are some example shots of the two current wireless tools (that we know of) that are capable of connecting to our database. The palm does a fairly decent job of rendering the text and formatting, given it's large display environment. The cell phone faces the problem of such a small display area. Neither are capable of rendering .jpg's or .gif's.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

I tried to write up some technical details of the site. It's funny (to me at least) to see what the site ran on then.

--------------------

Tech details
This is still a mess. The tech details are correct, but I don't think it's really that clear. STILL IN PROGRESS!


Current Architecture:

ClimbingBoulder.com shares a Pentium II 233 MhZ server with 96 MB of memory with several other web sites. This server is co-located at AES Consulting, an excellent web hosting provider in Boulder, Colorado.

The server runs Red Hat Linux 7.0, with Apache 1.3.14 as the web server. We utilize mysql, an open-source, free, nifty, database program as our database tool. For our needs it is clearly enough - additionally it was pretty simple to install and use. All of the database interaction code is written in Perl, which allows for fast iteration time for development. The only other language used is Javascript in a few form checking situations. The structure and layout of the site is accomplished using a table-based layout design, as opposed to a Cascading Style Sheets or other design environment method that are not fully supported by the wide variety of browsers currently used. We do use a stylesheet to define the fonts used throughout the site, and some of the color schemes in the site.

Log analysis is done by a program called Analog, the most popular logfile analyzer in the world (according to them). For our search engine we use Swish-e, an easy-to-use and free search engine program.

Database Design:
You can see the full database design here. Additions or modifications to the database are done all through web forms in the administrative area of the site. As of right now, the only public forms are to add a record to the route table or the people table.

Viewing the Information:
The information in the database is completely unformatted. That is, it is only the letters used. However, it is more more useful and interesting to see the information in an organized and thoughtful way. Therfore, the information for each record in each table is run through a template that takes the text and applies the formatting so the nice look results in the html page. This is done via a script that runs nightly.

Every night, a script runs that queries the database for every route, rock, and area in both the rock and ice database. This script takes the unformatted information, passes it through a template for each one of those six types of pages. Then this information is written to html files in the directories that they appear in. It takes about 15 minutes to run and write 800+ html files - 1 for each page, and a printer-friendly version.

Result:
There are several reasons why we built this current architecture, and most are based off of the previous architecture. First, the normal (and old) method of accessing information through a database is that every request goes through a program that queries the database. For example, this is the type of URL that would reflect that:
http://www.climbingboulder.com/cgi-bin/view.pl?table=route&i>>>>>
view.pl then executes, and queries the route table and asks for the 254th one.

However, our data does not change on a per-minute basis. Say 100 people a day request to see route number 254; the resulting information is always the same. We currently receive about 2,500 page views per day. Thus view.pl gets executed about 2,000 times per day. Running view.pl is much more work for the server, and slower for the visitor, than just sending out an html file. Thus the result is a much lower server load and quicker pages for the visitor.

Secondly, dynamic content(like the url shown above) is not indexed by the major search engines. There is a lot of words and descriptions that people have written to describe routes. With the previous architecture, this was never indexed. Having the information in straight html files allows search engines to index all of the content on the site, resulting in a higher likelihood of someone looking for certain information will find our site.

Search engine:
Every night our search engine runs after all the html files are built. Since there may be new additions, we re-index all the pages. Taking about 4 minutes to run, it allows a super-quick response to visitor queries.

Other Scripts:
Other scripts run every night. The 3 star of the day is generated every night, as are the people and book pages. The database stats on the front page are updated nightly. The result is that the site runs itself during normal day-to-day operations. Which is nice.

A lot of thought has gone into making the site scalable, easy to manage, and easy to use.

In May, we met with Gary Neptune of Neptune Mountaineering. We explained our project, and he was as excited as we were by the possibilities. At the time we had probably 100 routes. Gary's willingness to support and encourage this project, when it was still so small, is a tribute to his dedication to the community. Neptune's deserves definite recognition for how far we've been able to come.

#####################################

Version 1:
there was a directory for each route. For every route, there was an identical index.html file. This file then grabbed a bunch of text files from the current directory. Those files were called things like name.txt, rating.txt.... and were nothing more than the text for the name that they suggest. The problem with this is that it was very unwieldy. Basically the information was spread to be in directories all over the site, and each directory had 13 files. From a management perspective it's a mess - the data is all over the place, and it's tough to do. Plus, it meant that the only way to add routes was to have Ben or I make those files and then upload them to the server - what a pain in the ass.

Version 1.5:
We made a form with all of the required fields. When the user clicked submit, it created a directory and all of the files. Then we could check the information, and then just copy the directory to the correct place. Then, change the number of routes on the front page, and add a link on the rock page where that route resides. Still, a lot easier for us.

Version 2.0:
This was the big change. All of the data(about 230 routes) were inputted into a true database. Then, the same form above was made public. When the user submitted the route, it automatically got added to the database. Then, instantly, the statistics on the front page are updated. The newest routes item on the front page instantly shows what the name was, the rating the stars, and the person who submitted it. The rock page where that route resides instantly shows that route to be existing. This was fundamentally differnt from previous - the community could submit routes and have the database grow without any intervention by us.

Version 3.0:
Here's where we're at now. There's a number of backend improvements. However, the big difference is a shift away from a rock climbing database. Rather than de-emphasize it, we're raising the priority of ice climbing and community aspects.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

Our old FAQ.

-----------

FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

Why are you doing this?
Have you ever seen Rossiter's guide, Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon? It's an amazing canonical list of route information in the canyon. Unfortunately, many times his sketches and descriptions make it tremendously difficult to figure out where the route is (eg. climb the crack on the right end of the rock).

This is exactly the type of situation we want to remedy. We want to make it beyond obvious exactly how to arrive at a route, and where the route actually is.

Plus, we want to remember the routes that we've done.
Do you copy route information straight out of a guidebook?
No! That would be kind of pointless. Every route on the page has been climbed by somebody here at climbingboulder.com, or has been climbed by someone who has sent the info in (ie. the Team).

Were you guys getting sued or something?
Uh.... we probably shouldn't talk about it. If you're really interested, contact us and we'll explain why we won't talk about it.

Why don't you have a xxxxxx on xxxxxx xxxxxx yet? It's a sweet climb!
We probably haven't climbed it yet. And we might not get there soon. So tell us about it! We'll put it up on the site.

Hey, the page for xxxxxxx is missing stuff? Why don't you fix it?
We spend too much time on this web page as it is, so it's sometimes tough to do that QA type of stuff. Tell us what's missing on what page; we'll fix it, we promise.

Meadroon@aol.com: Your FA: unknowns is lame, especially in Dream Canyon. Everyone knows that Bob Horan put up those 4 pitch routes, how ignorant especially when it in the references you qoute, Another proagated site from what I'm starting to see.

Yup, there's stuff on the site that's wrong. We'll try and fix this right away, and we're not trying to cheat Bob out of his credit due. This database is constantly changing, improving. Unfortunately, this isn't like a book, where we can improve improve improve, and THEN come out with a copy. You get to see all the ugly middle sections, where there's typos, missing pictures, misspellings, etc.

Didn't I see you in the newspaper or something?
Why, yes! We've had two newspaper articles on us so far. We've also seen some other recognition. Here.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky




From the Left: Shaun, Myke, and Ben.

Myke Komarnitsky - E-mail
Myke graduated May 11, 2001 with a bachelor's degree in Aerospace Engineering from University of Colorado at Boulder. He spends too much time in front of the computer, and not enough time outside on the rock. Originally from Bellevue, Washington, he is the youngest of 4 brothers and 1 sister. When he was five years old, he ran into the edge of a table and had to get eight stiches on his forehead to get it to stop bleeding like a stuck pig. Check out his family's web page here. Currently he runs Komar Consulting Group, a Boulder, Colorado-based consulting company specializing in web-enabled database applications, web hosting, professional services, and of course, this web site.

Ben Mottinger - E-mail
Ben (Lu Lu Bell) works in Boulder, CO full-time for a major aerospace company now and is nearly officially a weekend warrior. He enjoys alpine climbing in RMNP and other states.

Shaun Miller - E-mail
Started on the web site. M-CAT studying has pulled him away to more wordly endeavors than this. Currently, he is planning on traveling to Samoa in the fall of 2000 to get practical medical experience with the super sweet Doctors of the World.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

Our Old News stories. Some highly entertaining stuff in there mixed in with an incredible amount of important-then, boring-now topics.
-----

News
Thank You, and Good Night Tue Jan 17 07:30:46 2006
Hey everyone,

I wanted to write you a final note of thanks. Almost 6 years ago Ben Mottinger and I (and our drinking buddy Shaun Miller) started this site. The site blew up, becoming much bigger than we had ever imagined - garnering awards, being the setting of a R&I cover story, helping us to meet girls, and 'making the world a better place.'

I mean it. Climbers in the areas that these sites have served are better off than before we existed. You all are able to find cooler routes and actually go do them. More redpoints, more whippers, more epics, more great stories.

Why did it succeed? Sure, we get a slice of the credit, because we built some cool tools and sold some t-shirts. But it really is all of you - a group of people that want to contribute and give back to their community. We couldn't have come up with Your Mother, Sven Lavransen, or any of the rich debates over chipping.

So, thank you. Thank you for making this endeavor a huge success. Thank you for making it fun. And thank you for continuing its mission.

For me, I'm graduating from Georgetown's MBA program this May, and looking for a strategy consulting job (anyone from Bain/BCG/etc want to get me in their spring hiring cycle?). It's not climbing, but it's the right thing for me. May all you continue to find the right things in life for you, and have the courage to go do them. - Myke Komarnitsky
ClimbingBoulder.com is now READ-ONLY Tue Jan 17 07:13:44 2006
Hey everyone, I turned off the cgi-bins to the site this morning. That means that the site is now read-only - additions are no longer allowed. Head on over to MountainProject.com to add your contributions.

It's been a great run with climbingboulder.com, and I'm excited to see this experiment go to the next level with MountainProject.com.

- Myke Komarnitsky
CCH Alien Recall Thu Jan 12 20:31:36 2006
Colorado Custom Hardware, (CCH) has recently completed an investigation and extensive testing to identify and isolate safety issues concerning the brazing on CCH Alien cams. The safety of our customers is our number one priority.
Testing has revealed that there was a brazing issue with specific cams made after November 2004. The units to be identified are marked with a small center punch dimple at the base of the round ball where the axle goes through the cable eye. Although few failures have been reported, CCH recommends immediately discontinuing the use of any Aliens with this mark. CCH is recalling the cams with the identifying punch mark. Please return them to CCH for a new replacement unit. You can mail your cams to:
Colorado Custom Hardware, Inc
ATTN: Brazing Recall
115 E. Lyon St
Laramie, WY 82072
If you are not sure if your cams are included in the recall, please contact us at (307)721-9385.
We sincerely apologize for this inconvenience and we are doing everything possible to correct it quickly. There will be a photograph on our web site to help to identify the cams that need to be returned. The Web site address: Aliencamsbycch.com
Sincerely,
Colorado Custom Hardware, Inc
115 E. Lyon St
Laramie, WY 82072 - John McNamee
CCH Aliens Update Wed Jan 11 18:18:05 2006
A couple of months ago I posted a note about some rumors of the orange alien failing during "normal" use. Since then there has been a lot of speculation on internet forums. Today on Supertopo.com there is a follow up to those earlier posts, including information from Paul Fish of Mountain Gear who undertook a series of tests of their current aliens in stock.

The tests show interesting results that if you are an owner of aliens you may wish to check out. Several of the units failed in pull tests, with the brazes failing and cables pulling. In CCH defence I don't know if the tests were undertaken in a controlled methodology, but still they are somewhat alarming.

On MountainProject News there is further information and updated links. Thanks to Ron Olsen for the update.

Message to Malcolm Daly, any chance of Trango designing a small, low profile cam, i.e. suited for Eldo! - John McNamee
Roger Briggs Slide Show - CMC Denver Tue Jan 10 12:15:53 2006
Legendary Homegrown Climber Roger Briggs presented by the CMC Denver Group's Tech Section, a living legend in the climbing community, will be in Golden Wednesday, February 22nd! The presentation, which includes a talk, slide show, and Q&A session, will begin at 7:00pm in the Foss Auditorium at the American Mountaineering Center (710 10th Street, Golden, CO - Washington & 10th).

Admission is FREE and open (to CMC) members AND non-members alike.

Anyone with even a passing interest in Colorado's storied climbing history will not want to miss this rare opportunity to hear from one of the sport's true icons. Briggs' feats include numerous first ascents (aid and free) of classic routes on the big walls of Yosemite, Eldorado Canyon, and Longs Peak's formidable east face known as the Diamond. Climbing magazine in December recognized Briggs for having completed his 100th ascent of the peak via the Diamond, a record that will not soon, if ever, be broken. But perhaps Briggs is best known for his 1991 performance in the Longs Peak Triathlon, in which he bicycled from Boulder to the Longs Peak trail head, ran up to the east face of the mountain, free-soloed the Casual Route, and touched the summit all in an astounding 5 hours, 45 minutes - a record which stands to this day. - John McNamee
New website to launch January 19th Mon Jan 9 18:59:53 2006
The launch date for the new cb.com website MountainProject has been delayed. The new switch over date is January 19th, 2006.

Sorry, but you will have to put up with us a little longer!

Remember, that if you have contributed before you will areadly have an account set up using your email address. Otherwise if you wish to contribute, you will have to create an account with a valid email account. No more AC!

When the site goes live on the 19th, cb.com's data will be imported, so please continue to add stuff to the current site. So, go and check it out and let us know what you think. - John McNamee
Climbing Courses offered at Lakeshore AC Mon Jan 9 08:53:38 2006
Women's Intro to Climbing Clinic
Wed Feb 1st and Wed Feb 8th 7-8:30 p.m. at Lakeshore Athletic Club (Broomfield) Come learn the basics of rock climbing with other women in a fun, non-competitive environment!
The first session will cover the basics of climbing, including equipment, knots and belaying.
The second session will cover climbing technique and movement.
Cost is $75 for Lakeshore members, $85 for non-members.
Sign up at the climbing wall or e-mail Alexis.Alloway@LakeshoreAthleticClubs.com

Learn to Lead Climb
Thu Feb 2nd and Thu Feb 9th 7-8:30 p.m. at Lakeshore Athletic Club (Broomfield)
Prerequisites: You must be belay certified and a 5.9 climber Learn skills necessary for lead climbing, such as belaying a leader, proper clipping, rope management, and technique.
Cost is $100 for Lakeshore members, $115 for non-members Sign up at the climbing wall or e-mail scottstrode@hotmail.com

Little Monkeys Kids Climbing Class (ages 5-9)
Two Sessions at Lakeshore Athletic Club (Broomfield):
- Mondays from 2/20-3/13 from 4:30-5:30 p.m.
- Tuesdays from 2/21-3/14 from 4:30-5:30 p.m.
Give your child private climbing lessons that help them learn to rock climb in a fun, age-appropriate setting. Classes cover strength and balance exercises, climbing games, and instruction on basic technique.
Sign up at the climbing wall today or e-mail Alexis.Alloway@LakeshoreAthleticClubs.com
- John McNamee
Lakewood Rec., Climbing Competition Sat Dec 31 17:31:25 2005
Lakewood Rec. centers are hosting an upcoming comp."Rock Steady" climing comp will be hosted at the Lakewood Link Recreation Center on January 27th.It is a roped up comp. with a red-point format. So all you rope guns, dirt bags, etc.. . come out and compete for stellar prizes from La Sportiva, Black Diamond, Wilderness Exchange, Evolv climbing shoe co.,Bent Gate Mountaineering, Cloudveil, Prana, Climbing magazine, and the City of Lakewood. hope to see you all there.

For any info concerning the competition Contact either Jessica Fabio at jesfab@lakewood.org or seacon@lakewood.org. Another option is to contact the Lakewood Link, (303)987-5400 or online - John McNamee
Lakeshore Athletics, Learn to Lead Cse Thu Dec 29 11:24:36 2005
The climbing wall at Lakeshore Athletic Club in Broomfield is running a learn-to-lead class in January open to anyone.

The learn-to-lead class will be the first 2 Wednesdays in January (two 1.5 hour sessions) and it runs $115 for the general public. It's aimed at people who are solid 5.9 climbers and know how to belay. Contact info is Alexis.Alloway@LakeshoreAthleticClubs.com - John McNamee
New area Added Sun Dec 25 10:17:32 2005
A new area called Estes Park area crags was just approved, submitted by - Leo Paik
New British Alpinism Website Wed Dec 21 11:42:32 2005
Here's a new website put up by the British hardman Andy Kirkpatrick. Psychovertical
It's full of long, in-depth articles on cutting edge techniques in rock, snow and ice climbing. There is some pretty good stuff here. - John McNamee
Suit by Climber's Family Dismissed Tue Dec 20 07:21:17 2005
A federal judge rules that Yosemite park officials weren't obligated to post warnings at the site of a deadly rockfall.

A federal judge threw out a $10-million wrongful-death lawsuit brought by the family of a young rock climber killed in a 1999 slide in Yosemite Valley, short-circuiting a legal battle that some climbers feared could threaten a mecca of the sport.

In a largely technical decision, the U.S. District Court judge in Fresno ruled last week that Yosemite National Park officials were acting within their discretionary duties when they didn't post warnings at the base of Glacier Point, site of the rockfall that killed 21-year-old Peter Terbush.

If you want to read the decision you can download it from Supertopo at: this link - John McNamee
New climbingboulder Website Sun Dec 18 18:52:09 2005
We invite you to check out the new Beta site that Myke, Nick and Andy have developed. This site is more than just a redesign, it's a totally new concept that combines all of the member sites into a "super site". Its got lots of neat features, including, awesome search capabilites, tick lists, to-do lists, message boards and much, much more.

To check it out click on the following link New Climbing Boulder Website

If you have contributed before you will areadly have an account set up using your email address. Otherwise if you wish to contribute, you will have to create an account with a valid email account. No more AC!

When the site is ready to go live, cb.com's current data will be imported, so please continue to add stuff to the current site. However, account information and discussion in the forums will be retained.

Please add any comments, suggestions, feedback, whatever in the Public Beta Discussion Forum. With your help we hope to make this the best climbing resource and community site on the web! - John McNamee
Comp #3 of the SPOT BOULDERING SERIES Thu Dec 8 11:22:27 2005
Where: The Spot
When: Friday December 9th
What: Comp #3 of the SPOT BOULDERING SERIES!
Registration 5:00 to 6:00
Climbing Comp from 6:00 to 9:00

$20 per comp for ABS Members
(an extra $5 ABS Daypass for non-ABS Members) - Frances Fierst
Chairlift Ads get USFS Nod Wed Dec 7 07:53:15 2005
Since its too damn cold for rock climbing...

If you have ever skied at Aspen or Snowmass recently you may have noticed ads for cars, credit cards and private jet clubs, etc on the safety bar of your chair while riding. It's basically in your face and you can't miss it.

The Forest Service in all their wisdom has determined that the adds are acceptable and that safety bars on chairlifts are "interior spaces" and therefore no different than inside buildings.

See the RockyMountainNews Chairlift ads get Forest Sevice Nod item for more details.

The USFS is asking for public input so please send an email to rhr2300@fs.fed.us to try to stop this craziness! Thanks - - John McNamee
Mike Donahue Passes Away Thu Dec 1 08:42:43 2005
Mike Donahue, owner of the Colorado Mountain School, died on November 16 from a malignant brain tumor. He was 59. Donahue came from a long line of climbers, and was the author of the 1992 trail guide "The Longs Peak Experience." His maternal grandfather built the north Longs Peak trail in the 1920s and 30s. Donahue became an assistant guide and then later a full guide while in his teens. His clients included the first blind climbers to summit Longs Peak as well as the first paraplegic to summit the peak. One of his climbing partners was Beck Wethers, who gained fame as one of the American survivors of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster. In 2003, when Donahue was diagnosed with the malignant brain cancer, he was said to have stood on the summit of Longs Peak 250 times. He is survived by his parents, his wife, his three children, his brothers, and two grandchildren.

For more details, click on the link: Denver Post - John McNamee
Employment - Access Fund Mon Nov 28 09:11:14 2005
The Access Fund has the following position available:

BUSINESS AND FINANCE MANAGER (BFM)

The BFM reports to and works closely with the Executive Director to ensure transfer of information and fulfillment of duties as assigned. Duties and responsibilities include managing daily financial activities, human resources administration, financial reporting, budgeting, contracts and general operations of the Access Fund. The BFM must know, support and espouse Access Fund policy positions and statements. The BFM is employed at the Access Fund's national headquarters in Boulder, Colorado and maintains an office in this facility.

For more info and to apply. - John McNamee
The Spot Comp #2 Thu Nov 17 20:16:17 2005
Spot Bouldering Series continues with Comp #2 Friday, November 18th!!! Comp # 2 out of 4 in the Spot Bouldering Series (SBS).
Registration 5:00 to 6:00
Climbing Comp 6:00 to 9:00

As an extra special treat we'll be giving evryone a free beer ticket, some pizza, & the chance to win some booty in the BESAST WITH TWO BACKS three-legged-climbing event!

Your top three comps are averaged together to determine the season winners. you missed Comp #1 ... no worries.
You can still win the SBS in your division!!!
- Frances Fierst
Don't Let Congress Sell Our Public Lands Tue Nov 15 12:12:47 2005
TAKE ACTION NOW! Don't Let Congress Sell Our Public Lands. Call your US Representative Today! Congress could vote at any time in the next two weeks.

The week of November 14 Congress is likely to consider a proposal to sell off millions of acres of national forests, parks and other public lands as a means to reduce the federal deficit and “reform” the mining laws at the same time. Once sold, these public lands become private, potentially fencing out climbers and the millions of recreational enthusiasts that regularly use them. The mining subtitle in the Deficit Reduction Act of 2005 (AKA the Budget Reconciliation bill) proposes to lift the decade-long moratorium on mining patents, and clears the way to sell off many of our valued public lands without environmental studies or public input.

What this means for climbers is that we could lose access to any climbing area located on or next to any existing mining claim, including the access trails to your favorite crag. Once sold, these lands—which belong to the American people and are enjoyed by millions of private recreational users each year—could become off limits for climbing, boating, hiking, and any other recreational use. If this provision is approved, any land speculator could buy our crags for as low as $1,000 per acre, and the land would not have to even be mined - any corporation could buy these lands and use them for any purpose. As much as 270 million acres could be threatened under this proposal and, adding insult to injury, these sales could happen with no public input from the recreational users that frequent these special places.

Your call to Congress could save your public lands access. Call your US Representative (go to http://w ww.visi.com/juan/congress/ to find your US Representative) by Tuesday and stress the following points:



If passed into law, this law would make the 1872 Mining Law worse, by placing climbing areas and other special places at risk by allowing mining companies to purchase mining claims even if they are within a protected area such as national parks or wilderness areas.
As much as 20 million acres out of 270 million acres of public land cold be sold off. This mining "reform" proposal, which has not been publicly debated, should receive public hearings in the relevant resource committees rather than being slipped through Congress in a budget bill.
The mining subtitle will enable U.S. and foreign companies to buy our American heritage without any proof that the lands can and should be used for mineral development, and without regard for the other uses and needs for these lands, including water quality protection, wildlife habitat and recreation. As regular users of public lands, the climbing community opposes this wholesale disposal of our treasured public land resources.
Please oppose the mining “reform” provisions in the Budget Reconciliation bill.

The Access Fund - Frances Fierst
Today is Veteran's Day Fri Nov 11 12:47:46 2005
Please make sure to thank a veteran today. And if you didn't see the article in the Rocky Mountain News, you really should read it here - Myke Komarnitsky
Omega Pacific Notice of Voluntary Recall Wed Nov 9 20:44:26 2005
In cooperation with the US Consumer Product Safety Commision (CPSC), Omega Pacific is voluntary recalling a small percentage of Five-O Screwgate locking carabiners built between November and December of 2004.

Carabiners affected by this recall can be potentially opened under moderate loads even when properly locked and must be returned for replacement.

Only carabiners marked with the lot stamp “VT” are affected. The lot number can be found on the backside of the spine and is clearly identified. Do not return any lots other than “VT” as no other lots are subject to this issue. No other models are affected. Only Five-O locking carabiners with the lot stamp “VT” (as displayed) are considered under this action. Please do not return carabiners to retailers. Instead, please ship any affected carabiners directly to Omega Pacific. Please mark all packages with “Attn: Warranty Returns, RA 728.” Be sure to include your name and shipping address where we can deliver a replacement Five-O locking carabiner.

All returns or inquiries can be directed to:
Omega Pacific Customer Service
11427 W. 21st Avenue
Airway Heights, WA 99001
Attn: Warranty Returns, RA 728

If you have any questions, please call us at 800-360- 3990 or email at info@omegapac.com We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience this may cause.

— Omega Pacific, Inc. - Frances Fierst
Employment - Access Fund Tue Nov 8 07:05:22 2005
The Access Fund is hiring an Associate Programs Director to provide the support necessary for local activists to successfully achieve our shared vision and take direct action when necessary and appropriate to achieve Access Fund_s mission objectives. Work is accomplished through grassroots support programs and direct action campaigns that empower local climbing communities to address access and conservation concerns through outreach, advocacy, education and stewardship for more info and to apply. - John McNamee
Day ascent of Nose and FR by Caldwell! Tue Nov 1 10:21:23 2005
On October 30-31, Tommy Caldwell free climbed both The Nose and Freerider in a combined time of 23 hours and 23 minutes. He started October 30 at 1:03 am and cruised up The Nose in 11 hours with his wife Beth Rodden who belayed and jumared. On the crux 5.14a Changing Corners pitch he took two short falls before sending the pitch on his third go. After a few minutes of food and rest on the summit, he ran down the East Ledges descent and was back in El Cap Meadow just before 1pm. Chris McNamara was his belayer/jumarer for the second leg of the link-up. Sarting up the Freerider at 1:36pm, topping out at 12:26am, 10 hours and 50 minutes after starting. See the news on supertopo's web site. What an amazing accomplishment! - John McNamee
Lumpy Trailhead Parking area to move Mon Oct 31 16:53:06 2005
The Twin Owls carpark at Lumpy ridge is going to be a thing of the past soon. Personally, I don't see it as a "win win" situation for trail users and the MacGregor Ranch, but you can read the news item in today's Rocky Mountain News and decide yourself. - John McNamee
FHRC Public Meeting and Vote Mon Oct 31 08:31:42 2005
FHRC Public Meeting and Vote
When: 7pm, November 01, 2005
Where: The Spot Bouldering Gym

For fall 2005, the Flatirons has one new application for New Fixed Hardware on the south face of the Red Devil on Dinosaur Mtn. Please review the application (http://www.flatironsclimbing.com/fhrc/current.php) and post your comments.

The Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review committee will be holding a Public Meeting and vote in connection with this new application on November 1st, 7pm at The Spot Bouldering Gym (3240 Prairie Ave, Boulder). - Frances Fierst
The Warrior's Way is coming to Colorado Fri Oct 28 09:24:17 2005
Hello,
I'll be giving slideshow presentations and teaching mental fitness clinics in November.
Arno Ilgner

Clinics
Tuesday 1st - The Spot in Boulder (6-10pm) for boulderers only
Thursday 3rd - The Spot in Boulder (6-10pm) for boulderers only
Saturday 5th - Rock'n & Jam'n in Denver (9am-1pm) for boulderers only
Sunday 6th - Rock'n & Jam'n in Denver (9am-1pm) for rope climbers only
Tuesday 8th - The Rock at soc and roll in Colo Spgs (6-10pm) for rope climbers only
Thursday 10th - Inner Strength in Ft. Collins (6-10pm) for rope climbers only

Slideshow Presentations
Wednesday 2nd - Mesa State College (Over the Edge Sports) in Grand
Junction, 7:30pm
Friday 4th - Rock'n & Jam'n in Denver, 8pm
Sunday 6th - Mont Bell in Boulder, 7pm
Monday 7th - The Rock at soc and roll in Colo Spgs, 8pm
Wednesday 9th - Inner Strength in Ft. Collins, 8pm

Clinic Description - The Warrior's Way Espresso Course
The Warrior's Way mental fitness clinics teach how to
focus attention during the climbing process, especially when we are most apt to seek escape. By learning how to focus attention we reduce our fears and improve our commitment.

You'll learn to:

  • Develop self awareness
  • Stay centered
  • Fall [for rope climbing clinics]
  • Improve commitment
  • Improve fluidity
  • Reduce doubts
  • Improve problem-solving skills
  • Reduce fear, and more

Content of the class:
You'll be on lead or toprope, depending on the amount of leading experience you have. The exercises will begin on moderately difficult routes, then falling practice, and finally a challenging climb.
What to expect:
We'll begin by learning how to break a climb into decision points. Second, we'll learn to notice the type of thoughts we typically have. Third, we'll work on staying centered. Fourth, we'll practice falling. Fifth, we'll work on improving fluidity. Finally, we learn how to prepare and commit at these decision point.
Equipment Needed:
Rope clinics: Harness, shoes, belay device, helmet, and a rope and draws (if you have them).
Bouldering clinics: Shoes, chalk

Course length: 4 hours
Investment: $60
Max number: 6
Meeting place: at the gym
How to register: at the gym - Frances Fierst
Steph Davis - Salathe Wall free Thu Oct 27 12:24:06 2005
On October 23, 2005 Steph Davis became the first woman to free El Cap's Salathe Wall (VI 5.13b/c). See Climbing Mag's Hot Flashes for details. - John McNamee
New area Added Sat Oct 22 19:56:14 2005
A new area called Bovine Arena & Tom's Trove was just approved, submitted by - Tom Hanson
Jeff Achey Slide Show - Moab, Oct. 22nd Wed Oct 19 22:17:00 2005
If you happen to be in Moab this weekend... Jeff Achey will be presenting a Slide Show of his desert adventures during the 70s and 80s in Indian Creek. Showing at the Mondo Café in the Eddie McStiff's Plaza, at 8.00 p.m, Saturday night, October 22nd.

Donations at the door will be gratefully received. Money from door and raffle will benefit Seekhaven, Moab's Women's Shelter and Family Crisis Center.

Also to raise awareness of Indian Creek Access Issues and the Friends of Indian Creek. Help to preserve the unique and primitive nature of Indian Creek. Prevent crag closures, developed campsites and fee systems. Friends of Indian Creek T-shirts will be for sale. - John McNamee
Horsetooth Hang - Sunday 23rd October Wed Oct 19 12:12:33 2005
The 10th Annual Horsetooth Hang at Rotary park, Horsetooth Reservoir, is scheduled for Sunday, October 23. The non-profit event includes six hours of bouldering and top roping, a trash cleanup and the famed Horsetooth Hang party and awards ceremony. Prizes for volunteers (by raffle) and climbers who collect a bag of trash from the climbing areas. For more info check out the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition websitefor details. - John McNamee
Nose Free one day ascent by Caldwell Tue Oct 18 12:25:22 2005
Three days after climbing the Nose free with his partner Beth Rodden-Caldwell, Tommy Caldwell pulled off a one day free ascent with one fall on the changing corners pitch.(14a) Amazing! For more details see climbing magazine's hot flashes Its the second time a one-day ascent has been accomplished. The first by Lynn Hill in 1994. (2nd free ascent) Must be Beth's turn next! - John McNamee
Free Ascent of the Nose, El Cap Sat Oct 15 13:11:00 2005
Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden successfully free climbed the Nose route on El Cap over four days (worked on it for several weeks) for the 3rd ascent, topping out on 14 October. You can read the press release at climbing mags website. Another incredible send by this team! - John McNamee
Warning about new CCH orange Aliens Fri Oct 14 10:42:37 2005
On the Supertopo Web site there has been a discussion the last couple of days warning people about purchasing new orange Aliens due to the axle being in the wrong place. I'm no authority on aliens but the comments and the pictures certainly make you wonder about whether there is a faulty batch out there.

If you have purchased any orange Aliens lately it might be worth while calling CCH at (307)721-9385 for details. Apparently, although the issue is known about, they are not doing a recall! - John McNamee
Friend's of Indian Creek Slide Show Fri Oct 14 07:37:44 2005
If you happen to be at Indian Creek this weekend, Jeff Achey is going to be presenting a Slide Show Of his desert adventures in the 70s and 80s.

The purpose is to raise awareness of Indian Creek Access Issues Organized by the Friends of Indian Creek. Help us to preserve the unique and primitive nature of Indian Creek and keep access to our favorite crags, at the Pasture Creek Camping area, Indian Creek 8.00 p.m.

Donations will be gratefully received for the Friends of Indian Creek.

How to get there: From Moab take Route 191 South out of town. After approximately 40 miles, look for a Canyonlands National Park sign on the Right. Take a Right onto Route 211 and do an odometer check. At 12.3mi you will pass Newspaper Rock on your Right. At 19.5mi you will pass the Reservoir. Approaching 27.0mi you will pass a paved scenic pull-out on your right. At 27.0 mi take a right onto a gated dirt road marked by yellow balloons tied to the gate. Go through the gate, and 0.4mi to the campsite.

For more details about the FOIC check out their website or email the mailing list, please email friendsofindiancreek@hotmail.com to join the mailing list. - John McNamee
Chicks on Cracks - Crack Clinics Thu Oct 13 18:23:27 2005
Presented by Moab Desert Adventures and hosted by Emma Medara and Lisa Hathaway

Impeccable red sandstone, splitter desert cracks, the chance to improve your trad climbing skills under the tutelage of some of the most skilled, enthusiastic and experienced female climbers of the genre...

2005 is the third year of Chicks on Cracks, and this year two events are planned. The first event to be held the weekend of October 22nd & 23rd, will be a grassroots level event, more suited to beginners. The main event which features all our guest guides, fantastic prizes from our sponsors and slide show will be the weekend of November 5th & 6th. For more information on price, agenda, how to register, etc, click here

Or email emma@moabdesertadventures.com or call 435 260 2404 or 1-877-ROK MOAB (toll free). - John McNamee
Splitter Camps at Indian Creek Wed Oct 12 09:41:57 2005
Just got back from attending Montrail's Splitter camp at Indian creek and if you ever get the opportunity to go next year, I'd highly recommend it. The camp was held over three days at Indian creek with Jim Donini as the Host. It was the first time I had met Jim, and his fire-side stories were worth the price of admission alone!

Lisa Nelson and her crew of helpers produced gourmet meal after gourmet meal. Breakfast, lunch, snacks and dinner were provided as part of the three day package. ($350.00) No one loss any weight! There was also some great swag from Trango (thanks Malcolm) and Marmot. Shoe deals from Montrail for 40 bucks and 40% off PMI ropes rounded things off! Needless to say we felt like we were pretty well taken care of.

There were 24 "clients" and about 10 guides so depending on abilities and group size there was either a 1:2 or 1:3 ratio. The emphasis was on top roping and working on technique on climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11+ range on all crack sizes. We generally top roped between 8 and 10 pitches a day depending on energy levels. Sometimes climbs were TR'ed multiple times while working on ring locks, stacks, etc. Needless to say we were pretty worked by the end of the day.

After the camp on Tuesday we had grandiose plans to send some routes but with the exception of my climbing partner Eric who ran up Supercrack we got shut down due to just having empty tanks.

Next year Montrail is hoping to hold Splitter camps in the Spring and the Fall and also have a Desert Tower camp as well. During the winter there is a chance that an ice camp will be held at the Ouray Ice Park. I'll post details as I find out. - John McNamee
Rifle Park Climber Clean Up - Oct 15 Wed Oct 12 07:32:49 2005
On Saturday, October 15th starting at 9am, Climbing Magazine will be hosting the 2005 Rifle Mountain Park Climber Clean Up Party (An Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag Event)

The annual clean-up is a gesture of goodwill to the City of Rifle for their generous support of climbing in their city park. Volunteers will be handing out trash bags supplied by the Access Fund at the entrance to the park, the campground, and at the main warm-up crags. Over the course of the day climbers pick up whatever trash they can find. Normal cragging activities are barely affected by the effort - you can still send the proj!

As fun and valuable as the actual clean-up is, the real reason to show up is the party and gear raffle. At 5 p.m. at the community house above the campground, the keg donated by Avery Brewing Company will get tapped, the barbecue furnished by Climbing Magazine will commence and music provided by the legendary DJ, Underground Chuck, will begin. Products donated by Asana Packworks, Black Diamond, Petzl, Sterling, Prana, Trango, the Access Fund, Wolverine Publishing, Krieg, Evolv and Climbing Magazine will be raffled off over the course of the evening.

The Rifle Mountain Park Climber Clean-up is one of the biggest climbing parties of the year and a must-attend for anyone that climbs at Rifle. For additional information contact BJ Sbarra at Climbing Magazine: bjsbarra@climbing.com, (970) 704-2613. - John McNamee
Annual Lumpy Ridge Trails Day Tue Oct 4 08:43:57 2005
The AAC is hosting the 5th annual Lumpy Trails day. Join us on Oct. 15 at 7:30am to help repair the badly eroded upper Twin Owls approach trail and the Little Twin Owls trail and bouldering area. Meet at the Estes Park Town Hall parking lot (MacGregor Ave and Elkhorn), free coffee, dounuts, and lunches provided. Plus gifts for all volunteers. Trail work is planned from 8 - 4 and dress accordingly. Download the flyer for more details. - John McNamee
New area Added Mon Oct 3 18:47:40 2005
A new area called East L.A. was just approved, submitted by - Clay Young
Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag Thu Sep 29 21:59:33 2005
TABLE MOUNTAIN VOLUNTEER WORK DAYS - 29th and 30th October.

The Rocky Mountain Field Institute is hosting a work weekend at the Table Mountain climbing area near Golden on the 29 and 30th of October. We'll be building staging areas below the climbs, which will involve rock work, building retaining walls. We are looking for about 25 volunteers for this Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag event. The property was purchased by the Access Fund to preserve it's access to climbers.

Please register with our office: 719-471-7736, or rmfibox@qwest.net.We require a release form signed by each volunteer, and will email you the form when you register.

Meet at 8:30 am Saturday and Sunday mornings in the parking lot (we'll send you directions). Work until 3 pm.

Bring water bottle, lunch, workgloves, rain gear, wear weather appropriate sturdy clothes and shoes. RMFI will supply all tools needed, and we can loan you size large leather gloves.

Crew Leaders: We will train crew leaders on Saturday, October 23. Let us know if you are interested.

We will have copies of Arno Ilgner's The Rock Warrior's Way to give away. - John McNamee
Flatirons New Fixed Hardware Application Tue Sep 27 21:41:18 2005
For fall 2005, the Flatirons has one new application for New Fixed Hardware on the south face of the Red Devil on Dinosaur Mtn. Please review the application and post your comments.

The Flatirons Climbing Council_s Fixed Hardware Review Committee will be holding a Public Meeting and vote in connection with this new application on Oct 26, 7pm at The Spot Bouldering Gym (3240 Prairie Ave., Boulder).

All are encouraged to attend and we thank you in advance for your involvement. - John McNamee
Recent rockfall in Eldorado Canyon Tue Sep 27 21:37:28 2005
There has been recent rockfall from the March of Dimes area on the Bastille in Eldorado. Two chunks (appx 3x3x2') fell on 17 Sept, and were moved to the side of the roadway. On 21 Sept, I climbed onto the area to assess the potential for more rockfall. I cleaned out several blocks of similar size. The area of rockfall originated left of the bolts that are commonly used to toprope the first pitch of March of Dimes and other boulder problems at the base of the Bastille (this is left of Bastille Crack, etc.). It is usual to scramble up to set the toprope near this rockfall area. It would be better advised to approach the anchors from the right (Werk Supp) side. Extreme caution is advised until the park staff can mitigate this area. - Mic Fairchild
Fund Raising event for the Access Fund. Fri Sep 23 16:13:47 2005
Hans Florine will be presenting "A few short and fast stories with Hans Florine” on Thursday, September 29th at 8pm, at EMS in Boulder. (Arapahoe Village Shopping Center at 2550 Arapahoe Avenue)

$7 at the door, all proceeds will benefit the Access Fund. There will also be a gear auction! - John McNamee
Lakewood Climbing Comps needs sponsors.. Wed Sep 21 15:58:06 2005
We are contacting businesses on behalf of the city of Lakewood to seek support to hold our inaugural climbing competition. The competition will be held at the city's Lakewood Link recreation center, on our 2,000 sq. ft. indoor climbing wall. We offer a variety of successful climbing programs and classes for all ages and abilities, and we are trying to build on that success by hosting a competition on Jan 27th, 2005. We are currently looking for businesses to assist us in our venture by donating or supplying any promotional items, products, gift certificates, or other items of that nature to provide to our participants and winners. You will have the opportunity to expose your brand and product as well as generate further interest in rock climbing. All of our sponsors will be acknowledged at our event. We look forward to organizing a safe and fun event, and thank you for your consideration in supporting the rock climbing community. Please feel free to contact us with any questions that you may have.

Sincerely,
Jessica Fabio
Climbing Wall Coordinator
303.987.5430
jesfab@lakewood.org - Frances Fierst
Thanks for all the site corrections Tue Sep 20 12:56:40 2005
Thanks for all the corrections we have been getting lately. We are trying to improve the accuracy of the site, first ascents, pro, etc and your input is really helping us out. So please keep it coming. - John McNamee
Trail workers needed at Indian Creek Tue Sep 20 12:53:31 2005
The Rocky Mountain Field Institute will host a volunteer weekend at Indian Creek on the weekend of October 15-16. We will be finishing the new segment to the Cat Wall Trail (West End) and making general repairs to the trails in and around Donnelley Canyon. We would like to have a great turn-out from the local climbing community. Folks interested in participating should contact Liz Nichol at rmfibox@qwest.net to register. - John McNamee
Thanks to the Trash Bash Volunteers Fri Sep 16 10:39:05 2005
About 760 lbs. of trash and debris was removed from Flagstaff on Wednesday evening.
Thank you...Tevis Blom, OSMP
- Frances Fierst
Rattlesnake Ramble Trail Race in Eldo Tue Sep 13 20:06:56 2005
ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado) is putting on a trail race in Eldorado Canyon State Park at 8 a.m. on September 17th. This is the only trail race in Boulder County and will hopefully be the start of local trail races. For that to happen we need to fill this race and there are only 50 slots available. If we fill the race and everything goes smoothly, we can hopefully expand the race to 100 next year.

The race is sponsored by two stellar local companies: La Sportiva and GoLite. They will be providing prizes for the race. Please sign up for this race right away. It costs $30 or $40 with a T-shirt. It is a bit pricey, but it is a fund raising event. All the money raised goes to trail building in Eldorado Canyon State Park. If you can't run or don't like running, please volunteer to help out.

The course is 4.1 miles long with 850 feet of climbing and mostly on single-track trails. It is good, technical, fast running with two out-and-backs so that you can see what's happening at the front of the race.

Here's the race link:

www.aceeldo.org

or sign up on Active.com

www.active.com

- Ben Mottinger
Friends of Indian Creek Tue Sep 13 18:27:15 2005
Grassroots Advocacy Group Formed to Represent Climbers' Interests at Indian Creek, UT

The Friends of Indian Creek recently organized as a volunteer climbing advocacy group that seeks to preserve the unique and undeveloped character of Indian Creek while also providing necessary funding and other resources for stewardship projects and outreach efforts to ensure the conservation of the valued and world-class recreational, natural and cultural resources found at Indian Creek.

The mission of the Friends of Indian Creek is to preserve the unique experience we all love at Indian Creek. We support dispersed free camping, reasonable management policies, access to crags, limited development and a voice in future land management decisions. Our vision includes responsible recreation to ensure the conservation of Indian Creek's natural resources and primitive character. To accomplish our mission, the Friends will raise funds for stewardship projects and provide outreach and education to the climbing community to assist in the protection of Indian Creek's unique qualities.

To become a free member, email friendsofindiancreek@hotmail.com and write in to express your views regarding how Indian Creek should be managed and your opinion about the proper role for the Friends group. The Friends will email you updates which can also be seen on the Friends of Indian Creek's website: http://www.moabdesertadventures.com/foic.htm - Frances Fierst
Reminder - Wednesday is the Trash Bash! Tue Sep 13 14:34:07 2005
Don't forget: It's time to cleanup our Mountain Parks, and BBQ with friends. The TRASH BASH starts with the registration at 5:00pm (after work), at the Flagstaff Mountain Summit (Stone Shelter at the Amphitheater Parking).

Give something back to the community, and take home some free shwag!! - Frances Fierst
Access Fund Survey - Win a Rope! Fri Sep 2 20:32:44 2005
Please take a few minutes to help the Access Fund keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment by providing your valuable feedback in the 2005 Online Survey.

If you respond by 10/10/05 you will be entered in a drawing to WIN one of two 60m MAXIM ropes!

This survey will be used solely by the Access Fund. Your participation will assure our energy and resources are allocated properly to reflect the values and priorities of the greater climbing community. Providing us with your feedback is a direct and meaningful way for you to stand up for your interests as a climber.

TAKE THE SURVEY! - John McNamee
Climbers Federation Radio! Fri Sep 2 10:00:23 2005
Climbers Federation Radio is a full, professional radio show devoted to all aspects of the climbing community. It is available as a podcast on iTunes or for download at Rockgriping

Episodes so far have featured interviews with Hans Florine and Lynn Hill among many others. Be sure to check it out. - John McNamee
Flatiron Climbing Trail Work Opportunity Thu Sep 1 10:20:02 2005
The Flatiron Climbing Council is organizing a trail work project for the climber's trail off the Amphitheater Trail. This is a great opportunity to do some work for the climbing community and to forge a good working relationship with Boulder Open Space and Mountain Park staff, who have been open and helpful with climbers.

Meet at the Chautauqua Ranger Cottage on Oct 1, at 8.30am. People should bring gloves, work boots, food and water. OSMP supplies tools and materials. Contact FCC for details. - John McNamee
Don't be a Jerk! Wed Aug 31 18:49:19 2005
Recently we have been receiving some emails and comments about the "comments posting policy" so we thought now would be a good time to update everyone.

It's simply: Don't be a Jerk!

In other words please lets try to keep the site positive and helpful to the greater Colorado Climbing Community and not turn the site into a place for personal vandettas and slandering matches. If you want to do that I suggest you do it the old fashion way, or go to the pub and share a pint or two.

Without your input this site would suck, so plese keep those comments and route info coming in. If you have any concerns or suggestions for the site, please let one of the volunteer site admins know. Frances, Leo Paik and John. - John McNamee
Mountain Miser - Gear Swap! Tue Aug 30 12:58:35 2005
Mountain Miser will be running their annual fall gear swap on Saturday September 10th, starting at 9am. The swap will be held regardless of rain, shine or snow! As always, there will be hotdogs and plenty of FREE Cold Refreshments brought to you by Tommyknocker Brewery!

See the Mountain Miser site for details. - John McNamee
John F. Stoddard Tue Aug 30 10:53:34 2005
Cb.com would like to extend their deepest sympathy and condolences to family and friends of John Stoddard who passed away recently.

John F. Stoddard, of Nederland, died Monday, Aug. 15, 2005, in Nederland. The cause of death is pending a coroner's investigation. He was 49.

The son of Robert Stoddard and Margaret Whitlock Stoddard, he was born March 5, 1956, in Seattle. He married Sally Lang on Jan. 27, 1990, in Seattle. Mr. Stoddard moved to Coal Creek in 1998, and to Nederland in 2001.

He was a climber, mountaineer and cyclist.

He was "a loving husband, brother, father, grandfather and friend," his family said. "He will be terribly missed."

Survivors include his wife, of Nederland; a sister, Sandra Carson, of Fox Island, Wash.; a daughter, Lesley Temple, of Aurora; and a granddaughter. He was preceded in death by his parents.

Contributions in Mr. Stoddard's name may be made to the family, care of Peak National Bank, 26 Colo. 119 South, Nederland, CO 80466. - John McNamee
Call for boulderProject Web Developer Tue Aug 30 10:33:11 2005
The boulderProject is about how the climbers, the environment and access are interconnected. It depends on community and the power of the movement. Because of this, we're tossing the website to you.

We're looking for a young developer who is passionate about climbing and understands their role in the future of climbing. This project is open to highschool and college students only. You must submit samples/links of past web work/projects and anything else you think would help us make a decision. Include your name, email, phone, address, year in school, and a 200 word essay discussing your role in the future of climbing.

This is an unpaid project though we will set you up with a mondo gear package valued at over $500. This is a great way to build your portfolio, showcase your work, and give back to the climbing community.

E-Submissions only. Send to Media@accessfund.org with “yourname-boulderProject web” in the subject line. - Frances Fierst
Climbers Website for IPod Users Tue Aug 23 09:12:01 2005
Pod Climber, a climber's Podcast station looks like a pretty interesting website. I'm probably the only person out there that doesn't have a Ipod, but I still found it pretty cool! You can download, gear info, interviews, training tips, beta, etc. Check it out at pod climber - John McNamee
Rock Climbing Film Competition Wed Aug 17 17:44:13 2005
Spadout Rock Climbing Film Competition (SRCFC) is an international film competition allowing climbers from around the world to share their media.

Anyone can enter and submitting a film to SRCFC is completely free. The top five films will receive prizes from our sponsor gearExpress. The grand prize is a 300 dollar gear spree on gearEXPRESS.com! Check out the web site for details. - John McNamee
Beth Rodden Redpoints Ananaconda Wed Aug 17 16:49:31 2005
Beth Rodden recently made the first female free ascent of Annaconda (5.13b/c) at Lumpy Ridge. Prior to Beth's ascent, it had only received two other known free ascents by Alan Lester and Tommy Caldwell.

- John McNamee
New area Added Thu Aug 11 19:49:52 2005
A new area called non-RMNP/Alpine was just approved, submitted by - Leo Paik
Vertical Wall Self & Buddy Rescue Course Thu Aug 11 10:17:45 2005
With the assistance of the Eckart Roder Education Fund, the Technical Climbing Section of the CMC Denver Group will offer a Vertical Wall Self & Buddy Rescue program including: information from the AAC, AMGA, & MRA; lecture information from an AMGA Guide & The Alpine Rescue Team; accident analysis information from Jenny Lake Rangers & American Alpine Club; and field practical exercises on vertical terrain.

We climb because it's brilliant fun; technical climbing is considered by many to be the king of all sport. When the fun stops due to a climbing accident, it does so in most dramatic fashion, and what happens next could determine your fate. The Mountain Rescue Association (MRA) firmly believes that training and education are the keystones for effective search and rescue operations, and that climbers must accept responsibility for their actions by being able to utilize self-rescue as potentially the quickest and most effective method to resolve most rescue situations.

If you enjoy climbing, have you ever considered the possibility that you may need to assist your partner to safety? With education and training of a self-rescue program, you may be able to maintain you or your partner's well being & possibly survival chances by getting to anchor safety or off of vertical terrain should an accident occur.

In order to participate, you should have BMS, RSS, or equivalent experience participating in multi-pitch climbing/alpinism. The tentative schedule follows. The cost will be $145.00 for CMC/AAC members & $195.00 for non-members. Orientation will be September 22. Contact Mark Nelson at e-mail: rkymtn_alpine@yahoo.com for more information.

Activity Dates:
09/22/05 - Program Orientation & Overview (Evening @ AMC - Golden, CO)
09/25/05 - AMGA Gear & Anchor Presentation (Daytime @ AMC - Golden, CO)
09/29/05 - Lecture (Evening @ AMC - Golden, CO)
10/02/05 - Field Exercise (Daytime - TBD)
10/04/05 - Alpine Rescue Team/MRA(Evening @ ART Shack - Bergen Park, CO)*
10/06/05 - Lecture (Evening @ AMC - Golden, CO)*
10/15/05 - Field Exercise (Daytime - TBD)

  • Tentative - location & dates could be swapped, and/or lecture rescheduled to 10/05/05 (Evening @ AMC - Golden, CO) - John McNamee
Rack Simulator! Tue Aug 9 13:08:31 2005
I found this on the supertopo forum, a Rack Simulator. It allows you to create any rock climbing rack and graphically analyze the protectable area of the rack. The system also provides you with detailed statistics regarding the weight of the rack and an approximate cash value. For more details check out
Rack Simulator - John McNamee
A request to dog owners Sat Aug 6 09:15:40 2005
It is not OK for your dog to bark at, or approach in an aggressive manner, other climbers coming up to the crag. If your dog is territitorial and aggressive, leave it at home.

It is not OK for your dog to leave a pile of shit at the bottom of a crag. As of last Sunday, there is a big pile of dog shit at the bottom of the route Dead Can Dance at Avalon. This is unconscionable and should never happen. It is not the dog's fault, but the owners. CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG or don't bring your dog.

This stuff is just common sense and common courtesy.

Come on people. We need to work together here. - Richard Rossiter
Catherdal Spires Update Fri Jul 29 09:35:04 2005
This morning I received some further news about the Catherdal Spires from a group that is working on the Jeffco Open Space Climbing Guidelines. The group includes: CMC, AMGA, AAC, Access Fund, CDOW, Jeffco OS and active local climbers.

Jeffco is trying to get an easement from Denver Water to gain legal access to the Spires. Upon which, they will be better able to effectively manage raptor nesting sites in the future as well as offer us access.

During Jeffco's initial request from the public on their Climbing Guidelines; we received several public comments, which all parties on the task force have been afforded copies. We are working delingently to address proper management of these lands so that climbers can continue to enjoy these areas as well as addressing the public concern.

Once we get the overall climbing guidelines redrafted, I believe Jeffco plans to offer them for review for more public comment. Then we will begin addressing each of their inventory areas for specific Climbing Management Plans (CMP).

Thanks to Mark Nelson, Chairperson - Tech Climbing Section, Dvr Group, Colorado Mountain Club for sharing this info. - John McNamee
Seasonal Closures - Catherdal Spires Thu Jul 28 19:10:04 2005
Earlier today I emailed jefferson county to find out whether the seasonal cloures for the greater Catherdal Spires region will be lifted on August 1. They confirmed that the closure will be lifted on Monday August 1, but also mentioned that "After checking with our Natural Resources staff, the closures will be lifted on August 1. However, you need to be aware that no public access exists for this Jefferson County Open Space property." I've contacted the Accessfund and once I hear back I'll post more info on the site. - John McNamee
So you want to be a movie star! Thu Jul 28 19:04:47 2005
I am working for a UK based production company on a documentary for National Geographic about the Hoover Dam. We are filming there in the latter part of August this year, and are keen to be able to film a sequence with some climbers/abseilers in Black Canyon. If you are able to put me in touch with a group who may be able to help with this, and may be willing to be filmed (the point of the sequence is just to illustrate how high and inhospitable the terrain is), that would be fantastic.
Kathryn Johnson, Assistant Producer, Darlow Smithson Productions Tel: +44(0)207 428 7735 kathryn.johnson@darlowsmithson.com> - John McNamee
Clear Creek Canyon Update Thu Jul 21 08:37:03 2005
A little more beta on Clear Creek Canyon. CCC is open for recreation starting at 9am and you need to be out of the canyon technically by 7pm. Be sure to show appreciation that they are even letting us get up there. Be safe. Thanks to Mike Crandall for sharing this. - John McNamee
Boulder OSMP Seasonal closures lifted! Fri Jul 15 12:28:41 2005
Raptor Nesting Closures for 2005 - Updated July 13, 2005

All cliff-nesting raptor closures have been lifted for 2005. Skunk Canyon, Third Flatiron all routes, Mickey Mouse Wall, Devil's Thumb ridge, Matron, Sacred Cliffs, Bear Creek Spire, Fern Canyon, and Amphitheater closures are now lifted. See the City of Boulder Press Release for the full story.

Thanks to Martin le Roux for letting me know! - John McNamee
Routes freed in Yosemite and Alaska Wed Jul 13 12:06:22 2005
Up in Alaska, Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden free-climbed an existing route on the East Face of Mount Barrille in the Ruth Gorge. The 20 pitch route on the Cobra Pillar went at 5.11. They were successful on the third attempt after previously being foiled by bad weather.

In Yosemite, Lynn Hill made a one-day free ascent of the West Face of Leaning Tower and Katie Brown did a two day free ascent. The climb went at 5.13b A0, starting from the top of the 200-foot bolt ladder at the base of the wall.

For further details check out Climbing News - John McNamee
Comments Database Update - It's Fixed! Thu Jul 7 21:55:23 2005
Over the last couple of weeks we have received some feedback from contributors that their route comments have been disappearing! The good news is that this issue has now been resolved and several hundred comments restored. Kudos goes to Myke for in unraveling this mystery!

One of ClimbingBoulder's principle goals from the beginning was to provide a community forum for all of us to share experiences, opinions and information about routes. All we ask in return from contributors is “Don't be a jerk.”

Yes, we have been doing some clean up, some of it at the request of contributors and some of it by the site admins going through area by area. It is a very slow and tedious process and we hope that fixing obvious misspellings and removing inflammatory and vile stuff improves the site overall.

In the near future we have some exciting developments about to come online, with a major site upgrade that will provide additional features, greater functionality and management tools for contributors. I'll keep you all updated about this as it comes together.

In the meantime, thanks for your contributions & your patience, with this issue.
- John McNamee
Fundraising Event - Carbondale, July 15 Thu Jul 7 07:48:10 2005
On May 7th, Glenwood Springs resident Kurt Birkenmeier suffered serious head injuries in a climbing accident at Red Rocks. In the fall, Kurt fractured his skull, lost his hearing in one ear, and lost his senses of taste and smell. Two helicopter rides, five days in intensive care, and ensuing medical care has left him with enormous medical costs. Friends and fellow locals have gathered together to organize a spectacular fundraising event.

On Friday, July 15 the CRMS barn (Colorado Rocky Mountain School)in Carbondale, CO. will host a slideshow by two of the world's best rock climbers, the husband and wife duo, Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden. A silent auction and gear raffle will accompany the show.

There are thousands of dollars of prizes to be had! Doors open at 7 and slideshow begins at 8. $5 raffle tickets and $10 donation recommended at the door. For more information call Dave at 970-928-8955.

Also, join us afterwards for music at the Black Nugget featuring Coyote Gospel with $5 cover charge.
- John McNamee
Emily Harrington 2nd in World Champs Wed Jul 6 08:40:11 2005
Congratulations are due to Boulder climber Emily Harrington after placing second at the World Championships of lead climbing in Munich, Germany. Going into the final round placed 8th, she pulled one out of the bag to beat many of the world's best in the final round. - John McNamee
Access Fund Adopt-a-crag 2005 Challenge Tue Jul 5 10:35:33 2005
Boulder, CO, June 17, 2005- From Alaska to Georgia, Maine to California, Adopt-a-Crag is captivating the country like a superhero. While we might not all climb like Batman, Batwoman, or even Tommy Caldwell, together we will attempt to climb the 120 feet of Flex Luthor (metaphorically speaking of course because, umm, Flex Luthor is Tommy's 5.15a superhuman route) where each foot is represented by an Adopt-a-Crag event. From over-the-head kneebars, hand jams, finger locks, and thumbstacks, we all bring our own expertise that will enable us to jointly climb the incipient crack. As with all visions for success, we can't do it alone. The entire climbing community needs to join in this effort. Through a communal effort we can top-out and become the adventure heroes we have always known we are.

Adopt-a-Crag is an excellent avenue for building alliances and partnerships and to plan for the future. Be it a crag clean-up of 8 volunteers or a fundraiser, comp, and trail work day with 100 volunteers Adopt-a-Crag is about giving back to those places we love and use on a regular basis. Adopt-a-Crag inspires activism, advocacy, volunteerism, and stewardship. In the five years since the inception of Adopt-a-Crag, climbers around the country have built and restored thousands of miles of trails, hauled tons of trash, and completed thousands of conservation initiatives.

Once again Adopt-a-Crag has been expanded to encompass the entire month of September. The Access Fund made this change to encourage organizers to schedule their Adopt-a-Crag event on a day that works best for their community and to partner with other organizations. Download your Adopt-a-Crag Manual here (http://accessfund.org/pdf/adopt2005.pdf) and register online at www.AccessFund.org/Adopt/. Contact Deanne Buck, Grassroots Coordinator with questions- Deanne@accessfund.org, 303-656-6772 x112.

Since 1990, the Access Fund has been the only national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 1.6 million climbers nationwide in ALL forms of climbing; rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: public policy, stewardship & conservation (including grants), grassroots activism, climber education, and land acquisition. For more information visit www.accessfund.org/ or www.boulderproject.org/. - Frances Fierst
Clear Creak Canyon - Update Sat Jun 25 22:03:49 2005
Clear Creek Canyon is open for recreational use only to within 1.5 miles East of the rockfall area at mile marker 262. With the canyon expected to be closed for several weeks this could be a good opportunity to climb in the canyon without the normal road noise. - John McNamee
Clean and Climb - Morrison, Sat, June 25 Thu Jun 23 19:30:14 2005
Hi everyone, this is a quick message from Dave McAllister, the Head Buyer over at the Mountain Miser. Five years ago I started something called the Clean & Climb, a grassroots "eco-series" for climbers in Colorado's Front Range. Over the last four years of clean ups I would estimate we've pulled out around 250 garbage bags of trash, plus countless other rubbish unmentionables. Basically, we all meet at a bouldering area, clean it up, snarf down some grilled goodies, go climbing as a group, and then I hand out some free schwag from a bunch of different sponsors! I'd like to personally invite everyone to this year's first Clean & Climb at Morrison. We'll be starting the clean-up at 10:30, and it shouldn't last too long (after four previous years of Morrison Clean & Climbs, this should be mostly maintenance). As a bonus, however, La Sportiva, Mad Rock and Montrail demo shoes will all be on hand to try out on the rock until at least 2:00! Come on out and have some good, dirty fun!
- John McNamee
Clear Creek Canyon Closed Tue Jun 21 12:50:18 2005
A 200 ton rockslide 10 miles west of Golden has closed US Highway 6 through Clear Creek Canyon yesterday, Tuesday 21 June. Colorado Department of Transportation officials say that the canyon will be closed for at least one week and up to one month for rock mitigation work.

U.S. 6 is closed on the east from the intersection with Colorado Highways 58 and 93 in Golden and on the west at Colorado 119. The slide occurred about a mile east of where Colorado 119 forks off from U.S. 6.

SeeDenver Post for details. - John McNamee
Eldorado fixed hardware for spring 2005 Wed Jun 15 13:37:49 2005
For spring 2005, Eldorado Canyon has one new application for New Fixed Hardware.

See the:ACE Website for details. Link to the application

Please look over the proposal, and vote yes or no, and leave any comments about the proposal you want.

The public meeting to decide on this application is at 7:30 PM, Wednesday July 13th at The Spot.
All welcome.

Thanks - Stephen Bartlett
Action Alert Update - Oak Flat., Arizona Mon Jun 13 18:36:54 2005
Oak Flat, Arizona Land Exchange Bills have been sent to committees for review and hearings. An interesting point is that several Colorado Representatives are on these committees. Specifically, Ken Salazar, Marilyn Musgrave, Tom Tancredo and Mark Udall. Use the Access Fund link to get the background information, letter templates, addresses, etc and start writing!

Thanks to Kirra from the Arizona Mountaineering Club and Friends of Queen Creek for the additional info.

- John McNamee
Rob Milne dies on Mt Everest Fri Jun 10 15:44:53 2005
I received word earlier this week that Rob Milne died on Mt Everest of a probable massive heart attack some 500 m below the summit. Rob was raised in Littleton, Co and attended college at MIT where he graduated in 1978 with a degree in Artificial Intelligence. Rob remained an extremely active climber his entire life. He climbed extensively in
Colorado with ascents of the Diamond and many other RMNP classics. He climbed in Yosemite and Alaska in the late 1970's. Rob received his PhD in Scotland in 1983. He settled near Edinburgh and became an influential figure in the European Artificial Intelligence academic and business communities. Rob continued to climb extensively adding classics such as the Eiger Nordwand to his resume. In recent years Rob completed 6 of the 7 geographic summits. He embarked on the final peak Mt Everest this last April where he showcased Scottish internet technology with his online Everest diary. Rob commented on how he was feeling fit but frustrated with May's uncooperative weather. His death was sudden and completely unexpected on June 5th during his summit bid. Rob is survived by his wife and two children in Scotland and his family in Colorado. Rob has been an AAC member since the late 1970's. Rick Meinig, Colorado Springs.

Deepest sympathy and condolences to family and friends.
- John McNamee
Gym/Retail Manager - Estes Park Wed Jun 8 20:24:43 2005
Gym/Retail Manager (and salespeople also) wanted for unique high-end outdoor shop with 3,000_sf climbing gym, in Estes Park. Solid retail, climbing gym, and outdoor experience needed. Exceptional people skills and good organizational skills a necessity. Work in a great atmosphere with like-minded folks. Lumpy and the Park beckon! Salary commensurate with experience. Send resume to Andy c/o Trailridge Outfitters PO Box 1558 Estes Park, CO 80517 - John McNamee
Access Fund Alert - Oak Flat, Arizona Wed Jun 8 19:50:21 2005
Our southern neighbour needs your help:

Oak Flat, Arizona Land Exchange Bills Introduced
On May 25, 2005, Arizona's Senator Kyl and Congressman Renzi introduced identical land exchange bills into Congress moving Resolution Copper Company (RCC) one step closer to destroying the publicly-owned Oak Flat area East of Phoenix resulting in the single largest loss of climbing ever.

These bills value the profits of a foreign mining company and discount a more responsible approach to environmental, as well as the recreational and health concerns of Arizonans and the many others who recreate at Oak Flat. Despite many promises of compromise these bills will allow RCC to push ahead with the destruction of Oak Flat and surrounding areas if they are passed without revision.

Don't wait for Oak Flat to be destroyed to voice your opposition. A loss of climbing in Arizona is a loss of climbing no matter where you live.
Access Fund Alert - John McNamee
Climbing Clinic Spots Available Thu Jun 2 09:07:01 2005
Hi there - I'm with Backpacker Magazine and I'm informing all Boulder newspapers, sites, and climbing clubs that Backpacker Magazine will host a Climbing Clinic on June 19 in Boulder in conjunction with NOLS. We're looking to fill some spots that are left (but going fast). Those interested can email me at Lindsey.Aspinall@rodale.com - John McNamee
Biskit - The loved climbing doggie Wed Jun 1 10:00:35 2005
Biskit, the star of Front Range Freaks and Return to Sender went missing in Gold Hill, Colorado and appears to have been the victim of a mountain lion. For details:
Biskit - John McNamee
Memorial Day Fri May 27 14:18:27 2005
Have a great Memorial Day weekend.

Memorial Day History - - John McNamee
New One Day Ascent of Hallucinogen Wall Wed May 18 11:06:24 2005
Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden climbed the Hallucinogen Wall in just under nine hours on May 12. See

Climbing.com for details.

- John McNamee
DenverPost article about bouldering Mon May 16 12:45:16 2005
In today's (5/16/05) DenverPost there is a interesting article about bouldering. Check out the online version at
Denver Post - John McNamee
Wilderness Exchange Unlimited is hiring Mon May 16 07:10:50 2005
Wilderness Exchange Unlimited, Denver's premier climbing shop, is now hiring for a full time and a part time sales position. Extensive outdoor experience and retail sales experience is required. If you would enjoy working in a non-corporate environment and sharing your love of the outdoors with our customers, please submit a work and outdoor resume to the attention of Don or Gary. - John McNamee
Tentative Clean & Climb Schedule Wed May 11 14:22:13 2005
June 25: Morrison, with a shoe demo
July 23: Red Cliff
August 27: RMNP
September 24: Ute Valley
October 15: Carter Lake with a shoe demo

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave.
Email: fitzelq@msn.com - John McNamee
New Shelf Road Guide Book is out! Thu Apr 28 13:18:50 2005
Finally, a comprehensive guide to Shelf Road is now available. With over 900 plus routes, the new guide covers: The Gallery, Sand Gulch, Dead Colt, The Bank, The Dark Side, The Vault Area, Cactus Cliff, Spiney Ridge, The Gym, The North End and the Great Black North. Co-authored by Fred Knapp, Rick Thompson, and Rich Aschert, Shelf Road Rock: A Complete Climbing Reference is a detailed guide employing detailed cliff photo overlays, written descriptions, bolt counts, first ascent information, aerial photos, Top Ten pick by area developers and much more! Available at local climbing shops, bookstores, or direct from the publisher at
Sharp End Publishing - Frances Fierst
One Day Ascent of Hallucinogen Wall Tue Apr 26 22:07:53 2005
Boulderites Alan Doak and Stefan Griebel completed the first one-day ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall this past weekend when they did the wall in 23h39m. Alan did the aid climbing and Stefan (a 5.13 free climber) the free climbing. They are members of the local speed scrambling group (SMSC). They topped out in the rain. More info here: www.speedclimbing.org - John McNamee
We need your help! Thu Apr 21 13:44:53 2005
I'm currently working on validating rock and ice area information. To help speed up the process, I'm seeking corrections and updated area information.

Likewise, if you know of any incorrect route descriptions, please let me kn