Discombobulated 5.11a
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Surmounting the the roof in the final feet of this...
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Description This climb looks like it is just a tall climb from the ground. However, when you get on this bad-boy you quickly find out that there is a heinous crux between the second and third bolt. Fortunately you have a sweet no-hands rest (if you can battle away the spiders) in a pod at an obvious sport above the 3rd bolt. Pumpy climbing continues above on undercling with long reaches between sloping edges with bad feet. Finally keep you head fight the pump and work over the last buldge (if you mess up the beta prepare for 11+ moves to gain the anchors just out of your reach.
Location The easiest way to do it is by going down Honeymooners Ladders and hiking 5 minutes along the cliff eastwards.
Protection Lot's O' Bolts
Eyeballing the final roof. Summer 2003
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Figuring out there was a huge rest right infornt o...
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| Comments on Discombobulated |
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By skinny legs and all
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b
| The crux between bolts 2 and 3 is thin, but lla with good footwork. Good rests. Awesome handlebar hold beneath the last roof. The final moves of this climb are some of the most photographed at the New, and the site of many a whipper. |
By S. Neoh
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b
| Being 5'6", I was JUST able to do the low crux without a pop/dyno. The finish on this route is exposed, pumpy, and stellar. So good. |
By Isaac T.
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 24, 2011
| Here is a video of Janet Bergman on Discombobulated (Warning don't watch if you want to attempt an on-sight) |
By Alan Howell
Apr 26, 2012
| This is the evil twin of Legacy. The lower crux is pretty thin and on a hot day can be a bit sketchy. The roof is sweet but the upper part can get a bit dirty if it hasn't seen a few recent ascents. |
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 12, 2012
| This would probably be a better climb if it wasn't right next to Legacy. The crux down low is pretty cool and there is some good movement up top, but it just feels kinda bland compared to its neighbor. |
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