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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Disco Machine Gun 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Beth Rodden 1999
Page Views: 3,809
Submitted By: eDixon on Oct 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Amir takes a 30 footer about 33 feet off the groun...

Description 

This is an incredibly fun left-facing corner with technical and powerful moves and not many rests. It is climbed via tight fingers - tips, and stemming.

Location 

Left side of the wall, past Hole in the Wall but before Crack Attack.

Protection 

Mostly small gear (Blue-Yellow Aliens), can also place a couple #1 Camalots.


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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 2, 2008

This is a fantastic pitch on par with many of the routes on BOTB getting 3.5 stars. Required exquisite stemming, laybacking, fingerlocking and faceclimbing skills all while placing bomber blue TCUs (need at least 5). Very sustained with some decent at best rests. Deserves classic status for the grade.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Beth Rodden FA 1999 or 2000

Rock near the anchors is a bit soft.
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
May 17, 2011

soft for sure....

By Drew McLean
From: Colorado
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Don't rely on aliens at the top...
By Keith Beckley
Oct 22, 2011

God i was pretty close to getting this one . The whole zippering the gear video is ridiculous. There is great blue metolius tcus,green aliens protecting the first crux where the dude fell. He must have had bad gear placements. Stem hard on this one and send! I actually got through the lower difficult stuff to a good rest....the upper crux is figuring out the gear...difficulty backs down quite a bit...but flared, softer rock is intimidating....remember to bring a set of green,red and gold camalots for the pods on this route. Wonderful climb!
By heppnerd
Nov 1, 2012

hard for the creek scary lead
By Scott Bennett
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Felt a bit soft for 12. Great stemming most of the way, and great gear up high (#1 and #2 Camalots). Sure it gets thin, I even placed a slidernut, but you're above BOMBER gear and there are great footholds.

Don't be intimidated.
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Feb 25, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

I whipped on a .2 camelot.. it held! edit post send.. place the red Camelot and run that shit out!