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Disco Jesus 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eric Erickson et al 1978
Page Views: 1,683
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 20, 2006
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Ian Graham starting the knob crux. Photo: Mike Gr...

Description 

This is a fantastic face route on right side of the South Face. It starts via a thin crack (5.10 or a one bolt face variation at 5.11a) on the front side of a big detached block to a bolted belay. The crux P2 takes a tough move through an undercling to a bolt, from here one can go left and do Crucifiction (5.11d), another bolt and a right leaning undercling/flake. From here a bolt leads to a very dicey highstep/mantel on a knob before finishing at a bolted belay. P3 adopts similar face moves through three bolts with another 5.11a move about halfway up. P2 and P3 can be combined, but when we did it in three due to the continuously tough climbing. Edging shoes are a must! Highly Recommended


Protection 

Bolts and thin pro.



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By Darrell Hensel
Aug 12, 2008

By all means, combine pitches 2 and 3. Breaking them apart results in two very short pitches, reducing the challenge significantly. When combining the two pitches long runners on bolts 2, 4, and 5 will almost completely eliminate any rope drag. Not using long runners will result in rope drag.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Jun 19, 2009

I heard that some holds have broken on this route... Is this true?

The starting moves of P2 seem impossible. Do you have to go way right or way left from the belay?

By Darrell Hensel
Jun 20, 2009

No major holds have broken off. The starting moves on P2 are just left of the belay (close). They do angle up and left a little as one goes, looking to get to the obvious undercling on the flake.

By fubar
From: Babylon
Jun 10, 2010

I have to second Luke on this--the starting moves do feel incredibly hard (and sharp!); much harder than the rest of the route. I pulled up on the first bolt and had no more issues, going straight up with a slight left at the overlap, making it 5.11+ A0.