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South Face
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Disco Jesus 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eric Erickson et al 1978
Page Views: 1,777
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Ian Graham starting the knob crux. Photo: Mike Gr...

Description 

This is a fantastic face route on right side of the South Face. It starts via a thin crack (5.10 or a one bolt face variation at 5.11a) on the front side of a big detached block to a bolted belay. The crux P2 takes a tough move through an undercling to a bolt, from here one can go left and do Crucifiction (5.11d), another bolt and a right leaning undercling/flake. From here a bolt leads to a very dicey highstep/mantel on a knob before finishing at a bolted belay. P3 adopts similar face moves through three bolts with another 5.11a move about halfway up. P2 and P3 can be combined, but when we did it in three due to the continuously tough climbing. Edging shoes are a must! Highly Recommended


Protection 

Bolts and thin pro.



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By Darrell Hensel
Aug 12, 2008

By all means, combine pitches 2 and 3. Breaking them apart results in two very short pitches, reducing the challenge significantly. When combining the two pitches long runners on bolts 2, 4, and 5 will almost completely eliminate any rope drag. Not using long runners will result in rope drag.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Jun 19, 2009

I heard that some holds have broken on this route... Is this true?

The starting moves of P2 seem impossible. Do you have to go way right or way left from the belay?

By Darrell Hensel
Jun 20, 2009

No major holds have broken off. The starting moves on P2 are just left of the belay (close). They do angle up and left a little as one goes, looking to get to the obvious undercling on the flake.

By fubar
From: Babylon
Jun 10, 2010

I have to second Luke on this--the starting moves do feel incredibly hard (and sharp!); much harder than the rest of the route. I pulled up on the first bolt and had no more issues, going straight up with a slight left at the overlap, making it 5.11+ A0.

By dnaiscool
Aug 11, 2014

Darrell is THE master at edging over there at Suicide, so his definition of "easy" or "hard" has to be taken in the context of his virtuoso skill level. That being said, I must agree that the single most difficult section of the climb is the super thin edging right off the belay at the start of P2. The mantle up higher on the "Black Potato" is really hard, too, because the myriad tiny edges that make it go are so hard to find. A "trick" is to press all your tips together like a cliffhanger and pimp this down hard with that row of short fingernails (you'll need some short nails for this to work) into the back of even the tiniest edge, then plant those feet hard and pull straight down on the edges. Bingo and up you go! I've even resorted to tossing a bit of powdered chalk up on the face, and where ever that dust would gather on microedges I'd see the holds. You will not stand a chance on the thin edges at Suicide without a shrink-wrap fitting edging boot...period. Isolating body parts while freezing all the others is also key here...and 5.11 "face" anything at Suicide is going to seem impossible compared to sport routes of similar grades at other crags, so work up through the grades by starting on the Weeping Wall or the Sunshine Face and tick off the 5.10's first. Good Luck