Disco Duck 5.10a
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Gilbert, Alred 1979 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Mar 12, 2005 |
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tearin up the dance floor.
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Description As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This climb climbs the rightward trending crack, that stays left of the bolt line. A very fun climb, Disco Duck well deserves to be climbed regularly, as its only drawback is it's length and tricky pro. This climb starts easy, uses a fun hand crack, and then climbe to a ledge. The rightward sweep is the reason you came, you realize, as you hop across the chickenheads using the crack as an undercling. The rests are there even though they may not feel like it. Save a bit for the finish.
Protection Large piece or two for down low. medium to small stuff up higher, some tricky placements. Anchors up top.
Looking up the base of the route to the finish. D...
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Here is a view of the route from across the gully ...
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Taking the biggest fall on gear of my life!
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By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
May 13, 2006
| got your self some traversing crack some chicken heads a blind placement here or there. off hand a really fun lead for a solid 5.10 climber o and theres layback! I would come back to do it again |
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| really great fun climbing. Crux is exiting the delicate laybacking for sure. Really dirty in the crack though... I was a little unsure about where to start this as that horizontal crack runs down pretty low. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| way good! a must do for the lcc 5.10 leader. a nice change of pace from the normal lcc stuff imo. |
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 27, 2011
| Hard to decide if this is 3 or 4 stars, but due to the super features I'm giving it an MP 4 stars. The only dirt in the crack is early, where its avoidable, and at the final stance, and not really an issue. Placements are not blind per se, just require a bit of patience to scope out. Maybe a tad harder than Mexican Crack I'm thinking, and almost as good. |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2011
| Got my quack on for the duck. Easy fun climbing with one distinct crux 3/4 of the way up where a #3 camalot worked well. Balance up some slippery liebacks to a final chicken nugget foot and its over. Single set of cams is fine, though I placed 2 #2 camalots, and the gear is good though you can't place wherever you want. I didn't feel any of the placements were blind and I would say Mexican is harder. Every 5 feet of this one is a bomber rest on a chicken. Do this then TR Disco Chicken. |
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