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 ADVANCED
Waterfront, The
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acapulco Arete S 
Baja Breakdown T 
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 
Certain Death T 
Chickenhead Holiday T 
Cold Duck T 
Comfort Zone S 
Disco Captain T,S 
Disco Chicken S,TR 
Disco Duck T 
Disco Lizard T,S 
Flirtin' Death T,S 
Flown the Coop S 
Gritman's Traverse T 
Head On T 
Just Hanging Out T 
Losing My Religion  T 
Mantels to Mazatlan S 
On the Waterfront T 
Seams Like the Seashore T 
Thin Slab S 
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 
Unknown T 
Waterfront Cave T 

Disco Duck 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gilbert, Alred 1979
Page Views: 4,693
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 12, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Taking the biggest fall on gear of my life!

Description 

As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This climb climbs the rightward trending crack, that stays left of the bolt line. A very fun climb, Disco Duck well deserves to be climbed regularly, as its only drawback is it's length and tricky pro. This climb starts easy, uses a fun hand crack, and then climbe to a ledge. The rightward sweep is the reason you came, you realize, as you hop across the chickenheads using the crack as an undercling. The rests are there even though they may not feel like it. Save a bit for the finish.


Protection 

Large piece or two for down low. medium to small stuff up higher, some tricky placements. Anchors up top.



Photos of Disco Duck Slideshow Add Photo
photo: Mooner - me leading the Duck.
photo: Mooner - me leading the Duck.
Disco Duck
Disco Duck
Looking up the base of the route to the finish.  Disco Chicken surfs the chickenheads to the right of the crack and another bolted line is in the water streak.
Looking up the base of the route to the finish. D...
Here is a view of the route from across the gully on top of the easy slab.
Here is a view of the route from across the gully ...
tearin up the dance floor.
tearin up the dance floor.
Disco duck
Disco duck
Comments on Disco Duck Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 2, 2014
By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
May 13, 2006

got your self some traversing crack some chicken heads a blind placement here or there. off hand a really fun lead for a solid 5.10 climber o and theres layback! I would come back to do it again

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

really great fun climbing. Crux is exiting the delicate laybacking for sure. Really dirty in the crack though... I was a little unsure about where to start this as that horizontal crack runs down pretty low.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

way good! a must do for the lcc 5.10 leader. a nice change of pace from the normal lcc stuff imo.

By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 27, 2011

Hard to decide if this is 3 or 4 stars, but due to the super features I'm giving it an MP 4 stars. The only dirt in the crack is early, where its avoidable, and at the final stance, and not really an issue. Placements are not blind per se, just require a bit of patience to scope out. Maybe a tad harder than Mexican Crack I'm thinking, and almost as good.

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2011

Got my quack on for the duck. Easy fun climbing with one distinct crux 3/4 of the way up where a #3 camalot worked well. Balance up some slippery liebacks to a final chicken nugget foot and its over. Single set of cams is fine, though I placed 2 #2 camalots, and the gear is good though you can't place wherever you want. I didn't feel any of the placements were blind and I would say Mexican is harder. Every 5 feet of this one is a bomber rest on a chicken. Do this then TR Disco Chicken.

By benjaminleaton
From: Sandy, UT
May 24, 2013

Check out the vid. If your plans are to onsight this route, then don't watch it.
Disco Duck Video

By LCC-Climber
Apr 24, 2014

Fun and interesting route. Harder than Mexican Crack? That one made me laugh. This climb has exactly 2 moves of .10a, which are well protected. The rest of the route is 5.8.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 25, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Mexican crack has 1 move of 10a. What's your point?

By LCC-Climber
Apr 28, 2014

Gee, I thought my point was obvious. Mexican Crack is significantly harder than this route. I'll spell things out a little better next time.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 28, 2014

Pay no attention to Boissal- he just likes to hide at height and pounch on the un-suspecting. Its his thing. For what its worth, I think Mexican crack has multiple 10a moves;)

By Ryan Arnold
May 2, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Loved it! Agree that it's a two move crux and otherwise unsustained 5.8. I don't understand the gear comments though... lots of obvious pods for great cams and nuts. Crux moves are very easy to protect if you lean over far enough to see into the crack.