Disco Death March  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  1977: Don Perry, Mike Burlingame and Cheyene Willis Submitted By:  Ryan Chelstowski on Oct 2, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Tree bottom right is at the belay on top of the bo...

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Great climb if you want some off-width action in the Gunks!

According to the Dick Williams Guide: Start about 5 feet right of Big Chimney. Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack. Follow the crack to a ledge and the base of a chimney.

Approach: From the start of Baby, scramble up and out left on a grassy ledge for 15 feet to belay on top of the boulder with a tree growing out of it directly below the off-width roof.

Pitch 1: Scramble up ten feet and begin to traverse left under the off-width roof eventually gaining access to the arete. Follow the off-width up to the ledge and base of Big Chimney.

Try to climb it as an off-width, it is harder. But if you are having some trouble, climb it as a layback in the vertical, it looks like it would be much easier

Location 

Take the Baby trail from the carriage road. Continue left at the fork in trail. In about 30 feet, this will take you directly below the obvious off-width, Disco Death March.

Protection 

G rated, but requires large gear.
Recommended: 2-#6's, 1-#5 as a minimum
Rappel at top of ledge

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BETA PHOTO: Traverse under the roof