Disco Death March 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | 1977: Don Perry, Mike Burlingame and Cheyene Willis |
| Submitted By: | Ryan Chelstowski on Oct 2, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: Tree bottom right is at the belay on top of the bo...
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Great climb if you want some off-width action in the Gunks!
According to the Dick Williams Guide: Start about 5 feet right of Big Chimney. Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack. Follow the crack to a ledge and the base of a chimney.
Approach: From the start of Baby, scramble up and out left on a grassy ledge for 15 feet to belay on top of the boulder with a tree growing out of it directly below the off-width roof.
Pitch 1: Scramble up ten feet and begin to traverse left under the off-width roof eventually gaining access to the arete. Follow the off-width up to the ledge and base of Big Chimney.
Try to climb it as an off-width, it is harder. But if you are having some trouble, climb it as a layback in the vertical, it looks like it would be much easier
Location Take the Baby trail from the carriage road. Continue left at the fork in trail. In about 30 feet, this will take you directly below the obvious off-width, Disco Death March.
Protection G rated, but requires large gear.
Recommended: 2-#6's, 1-#5 as a minimum
Rappel at top of ledge
BETA PHOTO: Traverse under the roof
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| Comments on Disco Death March |
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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
Oct 3, 2012
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Get all your beta here.. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 3, 2012
| Fun video! The route looks nice. |
By Ryan Chelstowski
From: Philadelphia
Oct 3, 2012
| Put fresh static on the rap anchor on 10/1 when I ran it. |
By vanishing spy
Jun 4, 2013
rating: 5.10d PG13
| Watch your cams after you clip the anchor and weight the rope. We had our rope walk our cams right up into the void and it turned into a production to retrieve them. In hindsight it may be better to belay the second up from above. Two 6-inch pieces are a minimum but if you have a third you should bring it. |
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