As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This is the left bolted line. It starts in a groove system with a bit of crack work, and then it enters a ladder of chickenheads. Good moves, excellent balance required. Consistently hard climbing forces you to rest stances which luckily can be had. The line is funky, but who said chickenheads had to be in a straight line.
3 draws for the climb and there are anchors up top. You may be able to sling a chicken head down low. If you finish left you may want a small selection of medium to small pieces.
Eyeing the upward march.
Fun sequence, one right after the other.
|Comments on Disco Chicken
Sep 15, 2008
1. mantle, mantle, mantle, then mantle your way to the top.
2. bring a #2 camalot if you want to protect the direct exit.
3. carry your gonads home in a wheel barrel.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2011
Testy! Your first pro is a slung chickenhead about 15 feet up after climbing some semi-flakey rock, then its spaced chickenheads for another 3 bolts. Some of them are really far apart. I found myself mantle-dynoing. One final chickenhead after the 3rd bolt provides pro before the final bulge pull, but this thing is still R and hard! Best to TR it before leading.