|Type:||Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]|
|FA:||Rotert, McMillan 1982|
|Submitted By:||Nathan Fisher on Mar 12, 2005|
|Comments on Disco Chicken||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Sep 15, 2008
1. mantle, mantle, mantle, then mantle your way to the top.
2. bring a #2 camalot if you want to protect the direct exit.
3. carry your gonads home in a wheel barrel.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 16, 2011
|Testy! Your first pro is a slung chickenhead about 15 feet up after climbing some semi-flakey rock, then its spaced chickenheads for another 3 bolts. Some of them are really far apart. I found myself mantle-dynoing. One final chickenhead after the 3rd bolt provides pro before the final bulge pull, but this thing is still R and hard! Best to TR it before leading.|
By Danie White
From: SLC, UT
Jun 24, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
|Felt harder than 11a to me, but I'm short. TR burn.|
By Brent Barghahn
From: SLC, UT
Jul 15, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
|A thin hands cam can protect the initial moves before slinging the first positive chicken head, this gives adequate pro until after the last bolt. Bailing left at this point gives pro on Disco Duck, but the true direct finish would take some sort of lassoing the top positive chicken head from below with the bolt 5ft below your feet. Hard, but the lead is reasonably safe for an onsight attempt.|