Disco Buttress  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  50' Lat, Long:  25.1127, 121.9216 Map Page Views:  184. Good page?    Administrators:  Nate Ball, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Tony B on Nov 10, 2009 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

The east face

Description 

A little further from the waves and spray on a very windy day. This crag sports a few 5.10 trad lines and an handful of closely packed 5.11 sport climbs all on the flat east face. While none of these are classics, all are good. The rock is compact and solid and holds are high friction.
If you intend to climb trad at this buttress, it is advisable to bring both the big and small gear, as the crux of 'A Fistful Of Disco (10a)' is "in your face" 4 to 5-inch crack and offers large gear overhead, or a long fall from the thuggy crux, and 'Right Disco Crack (10b)' has a crux protected with small nuts or tiny cams.

Getting There 

This is the second large crag on the right if approached via the North Parking Area (see main Long Dong Area page), and lies just up and southwest of School Gate. It can be recognized by it's prominant feature, a square-ish East-facing rib of rock 75' tall, on which a half dozzen routes lie.
The total approach time is about 10 minutes. Many of the climbs are accessed from a ledge 10' up on the East side, approached from the right.

The Classics

Featured Route For Disco Buttress

Fist Full of Disco 5.10a  International : Asia : ... : Disco Buttress

A climb which will be difficulty and fun-level dependent upon your personal taste and body size. The crux will be fists for some, forearms for others, and stacks for the smallest. The thuggy movement might beg the climber to wait for cooler weather, and the rock texture may encourage the less experienced crack climbers to wait for long-sleeve weather.Climb a few easy moves to reach the bottom of the dihedral, then jam and thrutch up the fist and off-fist moves (forearm locks for me) through an...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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