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Hackberry Creek
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Disappointment 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: shady in the morning
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: matt evans on Apr 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Follow the arrows to the red ball, then follow the...

Description 

Start pitch one on a flake that goes up and diagonally. Connect more small to medium gear onto a second left leaning flake. Continue up a vertical crack using medium to large cams and finally traverse left to anchors. Plenty of room for a large group at this belay station.

We started pitch two in the crack left of the anchors. Marty's paper guide says "straight up" which would be face climbing with some small horizontal cracks as protection. Take this vertical crack left of a bulge, pass a piton on your left, continue on up past more vertical crack and dihedral climbing until you finally find the anchors. Some room up here for friends too.

See photo for a visual. Trust me, not the route name... This long multi pitch 5.7 trad climb won't be a disappointment. One full rack with somestoppers should do it. Some doubles of small cams is a nicety but not a necessity. I recommend two 60m single rope raps as the anchors on pitch two consist of an old sling and two pitons that could use replacing.

Location: second corridor beyond the waterfall (probably 100 ft beyond it), on the left of the canyon.



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And this is just the top half of the route.
And this is just the top half of the route.
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By Michael Weed
From: Phoenix, Arizona
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This was a great climb. There are many cracks leading to the second anchor, which is about 80 feet directly above the first anchor. If I were to climb it again, I would further extend my early protection due to the potentially wandering nature of the line on P2. Also, watch for loose rocks!

By Ben Beard
From: Superior, AZ
Oct 6, 2013

The so called second belay anchor here of 2 pitons may not be the end of the route. I kept going up and slightly right towards the top and found a single bolt anchor on a nice ledge. This bolt may be the anchor to Invasion of Privacy, not 100% sure, but either way it appears to Marty's Rock Jock guide that the route goes higher than the 2 piton anchor ledge point.
A #5 is useful on pitch 2. We were able to single rap completely to the bottom from the top anchor on 2 sixties meter ropes, its a rope stretcher.

By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

The rock on pitch 1 below the vertical crack is less than desirable. Second pitch is good fun and protects well. The largest gear I used was a 3 Camalot. A thorough cleaning of pitch 1 may help.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 23, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

This route is actually pretty fun! We went to the top of the formation and rapped. I would not consider it a beginner triad climb as there is some loose rock and tricky pro, particularly at the start.