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BETA PHOTO: Follow the arrows to the red ball, then follow the...
Start pitch one on a flake that goes up and diagonally. Connect more small to medium gear onto a second left leaning flake. Continue up a vertical crack using medium to large cams and finally traverse left to anchors. Plenty of room for a large group at this belay station.
We started pitch two in the crack left of the anchors. Marty's paper guide says "straight up" which would be face climbing with some small horizontal cracks as protection. Take this vertical crack left of a bulge, pass a piton on your left, continue on up past more vertical crack and dihedral climbing until you finally find the anchors. Some room up here for friends too.
See photo for a visual. Trust me, not the route name... This long multi pitch 5.7 trad climb won't be a disappointment. One full rack with somestoppers should do it. Some doubles of small cams is a nicety but not a necessity. I recommend two 60m single rope raps as the anchors on pitch two consist of an old sling and two pitons that could use replacing.
Location: second corridor beyond the waterfall (probably 100 ft beyond it), on the left of the canyon.
And this is just the top half of the route.
|Comments on Disappointment
|By Michael Weed|
May 1, 2012
This was a great climb. There are many cracks leading to the second anchor, which is about 80 feet directly above the first anchor. If I were to climb it again, I would further extend my early protection due to the potentially wandering nature of the line on P2. Also, watch for loose rocks!