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Disappointment Peak

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East Ridge T 
Irene's Arete T 
Open Book T 
Southeast Ridge T 

Disappointment Peak  

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Elevation: 11,618'
Location: 43.73446, -110.79277 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 91,864
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Mar 8, 2006
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Some dude soloing Irene's Arete! This is the 5.9 s...


This area includes popular climbs accessible from the Garnet Canyon trail. The standout climbs included Irene's Arete and Open Book. In general, the climbs don't summit the peak, and instead climb features along the flanks of the peak above the Garnet Canyon trail.

Getting There 

Park at the Lupine Meadows trailhead in Grand Teton National Park. Follow the trail through the lowlands for about 1.5 miles, until it begins switchbacking. There will be a fork to your left for the Valley Trail - which you ignore. At around 3 miles, take the left fork heading into Garnet Canyon. The right fork keeps going to Amphitheater and Surprise lakes - a nice hike, and my preferred way to descend from Open Book.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Disappointment Peak:
East Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 500'   
Irene's Arete   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   
Open Book   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   
Browse More Classics in Disappointment Peak

Featured Route For Disappointment Peak
Traversing out the undercling. Pretty good exposur...

Open Book 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak
A Teton classic with great exposure, a short (by Teton standards) approach and simple descent. Not to be missed!The climb follows a beautiful crack/dihedral system just right of a huge arete. The bulk of the climbing is stellar finger-crack climbing on good rock with airy belays and spectacular exposure. Expect semihanging belays on most pitches.The climb faces south, so it does benefit from some solar warming.Pitch 1 - The guidebooks suggest two starts - either a direct 5.9 finger/handcrack ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

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