Disappearing Buttress Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The Disappearing Buttress. The leftmost line is No...
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A small canyon cuts into the escarpment just north of the well known Illusion Crags. On the north side of this drainage, more or less at the entrance, is a 500' buttress which we called the Disappearing Buttress. Surely it's been visited by climbers over the years, and the January '09 parties found some old webbing at a rap station, but there's no record of these earlier groups.
There are already several enjoyable routes on good rock, with room for more. The area receives a long day of sun even in the dead of winter, since there isn't a massive formation to the south which would intercept the sun, something of an issue in other canyons. Although you can't escape the sound of traffic from the Pahrump Hwy, it still has a distinct feel of privacy and solitude, with little sign so far of previous passage. The descent is easy, the approach is neither long nor hard, and the area, particularly the upper tier of rock beneath which descending parties hike, offers a lot of room for future routes. This upper band is of especially attractive rock but is probably far enough away that it will be a while before routes are established.
Drive as for Illusion Crags (and on to Windy Peak) and park at any of several pullouts below the Illusion area. Hike across the desert and into the mouth of the canyon, and to the base of the buttress.
Although there are options, it is probably easiest to park at a small turnout a few hundred yards north of the normal parking spot for the Illusion Crags
. Head across the desert following occasional trail fragments toward the cliff. The route goes generally up the small ridgelets in the area of the main wash. As you approach the mouth of the canyon, cross to the right and follow improving trails on the north side of the canyon. The route passes under a dark varnished wall on the hillside, detached from the bigger formation.
From the shoulder at the top of the buttress a long, spacious ledge system angles west beneath another tier of cliffs. Walk and scramble along this, crossing a couple of very minor ridges, to a wide slabby gully. Go down the gully to the slopes below. From this point it is probably easiest to pass right (south) of the small outcrop, then contour east toward the toe of the buttress.
Weather station 5.4 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Disappearing Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Disappearing Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Disappearing Buttress:
Prime Rib 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Featured Route For Disappearing Buttress
Pricks and Ticks 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NV
: Red Rock
: ... : Disappearing Buttress
This route can be found just right of Prime Rib. It climbs the obvious curving crack and then continues to the summit of the feature. We know that the first pitch was previously climbed. We discovered bolts at the top of the pitch and an old sling around a block. We believe that we were the first to do the upper three pitches of the route. However, anyone is welcome to dispute that fact.The route was named "Pricks and Ticks" because I had the unfortunate opportunity to fall into a cactus on...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
A view of the Disappearing Buttress from the south...
By Maurice Horn
From: Bozeman, MT
Dec 5, 2009
Gray and I climbed Prime Rib in November of 2009, my third ascent of the route. It is a superb winter climb because of the sunny exposure. We did it in 4 pitches. Both previous ascents were done in 5 pitches. Good luck finding your way across the desert. Its well worth the effort.
Probably the North side of the canyon is a better approach than the Illusion Crag side. It is separate from the Illusion Crag and has a new name: Disappearing Buttress
It has three routes developed in 2009 and they were posted on MP. They are left-to-right: No Country For Young Men 5.8, Prime Rib 5.7 and Vanishing Act 5.9.
Mar 15, 2010
Be sure to factor in enough time so you don't walk back in the dark. The walk off the top is not bad, but the hike from the base back to the parking area is not well defined due to lack of traffic. The sublte complexity of the terrain makes route-finding a challenge. The going is steep in places with a lot of loose rock and cactus (so much cactus,)and of course scruboak thickets (nothing like a little bush wrestling to end the day.)