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Disappearing Belayer 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Ted Chapin and Jim Boone, October 1979
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: Will S on Dec 28, 2010
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Photo by littlemike

Description 

This route takes the fat flake just left of Be Wary. Starts up Be Wary, transfers out to the flake at about 10' off the deck. Fun transition moves, and std ow/squeeze (or lieback) to the top of the flake where it eases.


Location 

Middle of the south face, on the left wall of a dihedral system is an obvious fat flake. Descend by either walking off the back on obvious low angle terrain, or downclimbing Brimstone Stairway.


Protection 

If leading (most will solo or TR), take the largest piece you own #4 camalot or bigger and maybe a couple pieces from fingers to hands. Build your own anchor with either gear or slinging large boulders.



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By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Call me silly but this felt a little stout for 5.7.

By tro4130
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 9, 2012

Tricky at the top of the flake but look for a foothold on the opposing wall and you are solid...too bad the flake doesn't feel so solid. Done it once, don't trust it enough for round 2.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I agree that this seems stout for 5.7. A fun climb though with neat moves.