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Dirty tricks for changing crampon toe bails

Original Post
Todd Anderson · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 160

I once thought it was a good idea to try out big toe bails on my BD Snaggletooths, then go back to the little ones. Now I want to get the big ones back on there so they fit on my ski boots. Is there a magical bail-changing procedure that doesn't involve snapping tendons, putting a dozen holes in my hands/gloves/crotch, and generally making me want to buy two pairs of the same crampon so I never have to do this again?

Gavin W · · NW WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 181

Something analogous to a really large set of retaining ring pliers would be ideal. Even if you had a set of larger needlenose pliers, you might be able to place them inside of the toe bails, and then open the pliers. That might give you the extra leverage that you need to stretch the toe bail off.

On a semi-related note, what do you think of the Snaggletooths? Good option as a do-it-all neve-ice-mixed-alpine crampon?

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

basket hitch a sling through the bail, pull to the side.

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114

Basket hitch a sling or a hank of webbing around the bail giving you a loop to pull on. Hold the crampon with a leather glove in the other hand.

Todd Anderson · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 160

Just used a girth hitch instead of a basket hitch. Thanks everyone!

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

I shove my large bastard file in there and use it as a lever.

Connor FM · · Bowlder, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 186

A pry bar makes it basically no effort.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
jon jugenheimer wrote:I shove my large bastard file in there and use it as a lever.
I'd be careful about that. A small dent or nick in the bail will act as a stress riser and can somewhat increase the risk of breakage. It happened to me.
Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

I use the strap that is already on the crampon. I pin the crampon on its side between my feet with good shoes on. Thread the strap through the bail and pull up on it. Works great at removing and reinstalling toe bails.

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

I put a small dent or nick in the bail every time I mix Climb. Good thing i swap out new pons almost every season.

Brandonian · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35

Use your ice tool, easy to leverage off

Greg Miller · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 30

Clamp the toe bail in a bench vise, then move the crampon relative to that. Had to do this on the Lynx, those suckers are hard to swap.

John Milward · · Portland, OR · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

I used Sunny D's idea, my crampons are Grivel crampomatic, changing bales to newmatic - one side of bale in crampon, girth hitch with sling on other side of bale, crampon on side on floor on leather gloves to protect carpet etc, holding down crampon with feet, pulling on sling, other side of bale pops in hole on crampon worked pretty easily! As a side note, I'm not sure how readilly available the Grivel new-matic bale conversion parts are (CN2 bale kit), I found them on-line at a relatively obscure site, it seems like the more well-known sites don't have them available anymore.

julio412 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

The Ouray Mtn shop use to have the CN2 bale kits; these do change the location of the front point some.
I 2nd Gavin W's ? "What do you think of the Snaggletooth?" I haven't had a real chance to give mine a try, though I think for mixed terrain they'd be great.
I did feel a little shaky on a WI4 toprope in Ouray
Mario

Bob O'Brien · · Nobleboro, ME · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 11

with a vise; grab the big front point (not the bail), any lever (screw driver) works easily on the "up side" portion of the bail. grabbing the bail in the vise makes it much harder... many failed (and subsequent successful) attempts have reinforced this to me

Charles Proctor · · Somerville, MA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 75

A kinko glove or similar leather work glove makes it easier to grab the crampon. I then use a sling through the toe bail and pull really hard.

David M · · Nashville, TN · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Sling works great for me, even when bails are in there TIGHT. Looping a sling around your hand is the easy part; the key is finding a way to hold the rest of the crampon. I don't think I trust a vice enough without squeezing the crampon a worrying amount. I just use my feet to hold it. Shoes help; worst case, put on a climbing boot and hold the crampon against the floor. You're then in position to pull your sling like crazy.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

bastard file.   and new poons every season. 

Christian Edstrom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Put the crampon between your feet. Take the crampon strap and loop it around the side of the toe bail.  Pull.  Bob’s your uncle.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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