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Dirty Smelly Hippie 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dave Hume - 1997
Page Views: 1,100
Submitted By: yevquest on Aug 7, 2009
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Taylor Roy below Dirty Smelly Hippie.

Description 

DSM is a steep, fun route with a variety of moves and holds.

Jugs lead to the first bolt (some stick clip). A hardish move (11+?) with a few ways to do it leads to the second bolt. Jugs lead up to a ledge and a no hands rest. Easy climbing leads to another bolt and a further rest.

Another 11+ section off the rest leads to a bolt and the last rest for a bit. Rest up and then launch into the business. Steep moves on subpar slopy pockets leads to a hardish clip. From here move up and left to the obvious crack. Climb to the next bolt and clip if you can (right kneebar is helpful). The crux is getting past this bolt to a huge break and a no hands rest. Easy climbing (5.10) up and left leads to the anchor.


Location 

To the right of the main wall are some steeper route. Locate an obvious huge flake (Head and Shoulders) and walk 10 feet to the right. There are 2 routes that start here. Supercharger is the left, DSM is the right.


Protection 

Bolts and chains. Route often has fixed draws.



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