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 ADVANCED
i. Orangutan Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dirty Sanchez T,S,TR 
Orangutan (P1 variation) T,TR 
Orangutan (P1) T,TR 
Orangutan (P2 Variation) T,S,TR 
Orangutan (P2) T,TR 

Dirty Sanchez 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 932
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 18, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Orangutan Buttress. A new line of bolts
went up in...

Description 

A tall bolted route on the left middle section of Orangutan Buttress. A stiff start up a short shallow open book under the first bolt, followed by an interesting jaunt up the face. Three quarters of the way up the cliff is a roomy ledge with a pair of belay/rappel chains.

If climbing pitch two of Orangutan from the top of this line, breaking this into two pitches as intended reduces rope drag and helps communication.

From Nancy: "The first pitch is a 5.7, 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and needs a 50m to rappel. The second pitch is 5.9+/10a 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and needs a 70m to rappel from the top or 2 rappels with a 50m or 60m. This route is well protected and should not need a R rating. As far as the history goes, people have been climbing at RS since the 1940's and I'm sure at some point this line has been climbed, however there is no documented accent of the first pitch in any of the old guidebooks. The second pitch however, was a old top rope variation of orangutan rated 5.9+. "


Location 

The only bolted line on Orangutan Buttress.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Optional pair of belay/rappel chains 3/4ths of the way up the route. Another pair of chains at the top. Quickdraws are adequate, but produce rope drag. Extend a couple of alpine draws instead and it runs more smoothly.

I've heard this was climbed before the bolts went up in 2011, but it looks like it'd be pretty runout.



Photos of Dirty Sanchez Slideshow Add Photo
Brett near the top of pitch 1 of the new sport route on Orangutan Buttress.
BETA PHOTO: Brett near the top of pitch 1 of the new sport rou...
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