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Dirty Rat's Crack 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 678
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 1, 2001
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Bryson Fienup (at 6 years old) climbs Dirty Rat's ...

Description 

Actually better than it looks. Start left of Crank You, Thank You towards the right side of the Cracked Wall. Follow a discontinuous ramp/crack system, staying right of the moss. Continue up mostly 4th class terrain with perhaps a 5.4 move. Two sets of anchors at the top, shared with Civilized Evil.


Protection 

Light rack.



Photos of Dirty Rat's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
During a "bold lead", Jeff Rininger pauses at the 5.4 crux to contemplate whether the climb is called  "Dirty Rat's Crack" or "Dead Rat's Crack".
During a "bold lead", Jeff Rininger pauses at the ...
Comments on Dirty Rat's Crack Add Comment
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By Ken Klis
Feb 16, 2009

Original Name: Dead Rat's Crack (funny how names morph over time...)

fa circa 1971 led by Richard Pfost, followed by 2 others

He remembers pulling a dead rat out of the crack and throwing it down to the base, hence the name.

This route goes above the Civilized Evil anchors, over some bulges with hand jams, and to the top of the cliff where you can set up anchors, but use caution on some loose junk around (not often done but a very goood route, 5.7).

By John Knight
Feb 24, 2009

I could have sworn Rusty Garing told me that Dead Rat's Crack was actually 60 Seconds and that the name somehow got transferred to what we currently call Dirty Rat's Crack. Anyway, just adding to the confusion. I guess we should ask Rusty & Richard to confirm.

By Matthew Geyer
Mar 2, 2009

What about calling it DRC, it's easier than some three name route for such a short scramble? Whether the D stands for Dirty or Dead can be a secret.

By John Knight
Mar 19, 2009

See comment re: Dirty/Dead Rat's Crack on 60 Seconds.

By TinMan92592
Aug 10, 2010

I soloed though rapping down I saw two cracks where protection would take about 30 to 40 feet up the route. Careful for pendulm swing ot the left rappeling down if you were to lose footing.

By NeilSutherlandME
Feb 28, 2013

I started up to solo this to set up a TR on Civ Evil and got stuck at the 5.easy move up to the anchors. Tied off at a hollow arch 6 ft. lower while my partner hiked around and threw down the rope. I'm a solid 5.9 runout leader, so I'm used to being scared, but the move was a bit too spicy for me at ~40 ft. off the deck. Just FYI anyone who is thinking of soloing for TR on a neighboring climb.