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Red Wall
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A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 
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Bill's Flake T 
Breakdown in Paradise S 
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 
Commie Pinkos S 
Dances with Clams S 
Dirty Pinkos S 
Finger Puppet S 
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Flex T 
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Pop Art S 
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Sole Survivor S 
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Titanium Jag T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dirty Pinkos 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 946
Submitted By: S. Eppes on Sep 21, 2013

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Airy traverse on pitch 3
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Original information was sent to SmithRock.com from Ted Stahl and was edited by Mike Volk:
Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.

Link to the topo:
smithrock.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/routes/Dirty%20Pinkos%>>>


1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.

2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.

3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.

4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.


Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by

The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.


Location 

Center area of Red Wall. Start is next to Super Slab.


Protection 

Bolts. Take about 12 draws.



Photos of Dirty Pinkos Slideshow Add Photo
Leesa traversing P3 towards Gulag Archipaelago.
Leesa traversing P3 towards Gulag Archipaelago.
Looking up the second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the second pitch.
Looking up the fourth pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the fourth pitch
Looking back across the third pitch traverse from the anchors.
Looking back across the third pitch traverse from ...
Leesa on the top of Gulag Archipelago (p4)
Leesa on the top of Gulag Archipelago (p4)
Comments on Dirty Pinkos Add Comment
Show which comments
By Suzanne Wilson 1
From: Placentia, California
Oct 15, 2013

What a spectacular route!!! The third pitch traverse was airy and exposed and made for some great pictures. I'd recommend helmets as there was enough loose rock. Descent is off the back along a path that joins in to Misery Ridge. Super easy descent.

By BSwett
From: Bend, Or.
Oct 25, 2013

Super creative line. Thanks guys for putting this thing up. Surprisingly clean considering the lack of traffic. I'd say you need more like 14+ draws, not 12.... And some long ones for the traverse will help with rope drag.
Also, when in doubt on the second pitch, go for the left hand bolt line.

By Blagoves
From: Portland, OR
May 23, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route! Used 16 draws on the P3 traverse. We linked it up with the 4th pitch of Gulag Archipalago.