Original information was sent to SmithRock.com from Ted Stahl and was edited by Mike Volk:
Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.
Link to the topo:
1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.
2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.
3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.
4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.
Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by
The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.
Center area of Red Wall. Start is next to Super Slab.
Bolts. Take about 16 draws.
Leesa traversing P3 towards Gulag Archipaelago.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the fourth pitch
Looking back across the third pitch traverse from ...
Leesa on the top of Gulag Archipelago (p4)
|By Suzanne Wilson 1|
From: Placentia, California
Oct 15, 2013
What a spectacular route!!! The third pitch traverse was airy and exposed and made for some great pictures. I'd recommend helmets as there was enough loose rock. Descent is off the back along a path that joins in to Misery Ridge. Super easy descent.
From: Bend, Or.
Oct 25, 2013
Super creative line. Thanks guys for putting this thing up. Surprisingly clean considering the lack of traffic. I'd say you need more like 14+ draws, not 12.... And some long ones for the traverse will help with rope drag.
Also, when in doubt on the second pitch, go for the left hand bolt line.
From: Portland, OR
May 23, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great route! Used 16 draws on the P3 traverse. We linked it up with the 4th pitch of Gulag Archipalago.