|Type:||Sport, 4 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||S. Eppes on Sep 21, 2013|
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|Comments on Dirty Pinkos||Add Comment|
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By Suzanne Wilson 1
From: Placentia, California
Oct 15, 2013
|What a spectacular route!!! The third pitch traverse was airy and exposed and made for some great pictures. I'd recommend helmets as there was enough loose rock. Descent is off the back along a path that joins in to Misery Ridge. Super easy descent.|
From: Bend, Or.
Oct 25, 2013
Super creative line. Thanks guys for putting this thing up. Surprisingly clean considering the lack of traffic. I'd say you need more like 14+ draws, not 12.... And some long ones for the traverse will help with rope drag.
Also, when in doubt on the second pitch, go for the left hand bolt line.
From: Portland, OR
May 23, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|Great route! Used 16 draws on the P3 traverse. We linked it up with the 4th pitch of Gulag Archipalago.|
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just climbed this yesterday. Very nice route. Extremely safe with tons of bolts. The first three pitches all felt 5.8 or easier. The very last couple moves felt like 5.9, especially if you were shorter. The holds are all quite hollow/questionable right at the end as well. There is a bolt right where you would want it at poor rock section, so even if a hold were to break the fall wouldn't be very far. The entire rest of the climb had very good rock quality, so it really just about 6 feet at the very top that is questionable rock.
If you don't want to link the 3rd pitch into Gulag Archipelago, you definitely don't need 16 draws. Also, 3 or 4 shoulder slings are very helpful for the 3rd pitch to reduce rope drag through the gully. If I do it again and not link, I would bring probably 10 draws and 4 slings, plus anchor building materials.
We didn't do it, but it seems like you should be able to link the first two with a 70, and maybe even with a 60. Linking the 3rd into the finish on Gulag is easy with a 60. Linking the 3rd into the 4th of Dirty Pinkos is much shorter than a 60, but the sharp turn makes for very bad rope drag.