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(u) Red Wall
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Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 
Commie Pinkos S 
Dances with Clams S 
Dirty Pinkos S 
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Flex T 
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Lets Face It S 
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Titanium Jag T 

Dirty Pinkos 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,636
Submitted By: S. Eppes on Sep 21, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Airy traverse on pitch 3

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Original information was sent to smithrock.com from Ted Stahl and was edited by Mike Volk:
Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.

Link to the topo:
smithrock.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/routes/Dirty%20Pinkos%>>>


1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.

2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.

3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.

4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.


Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by

The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.

Location 

Center area of Red Wall. Start is next to Super Slab.

Protection 

Bolts. Take about 16 draws.


Photos of Dirty Pinkos Slideshow Add Photo
We started from Super Slab, took the 5.7 sport rou...
We started from Super Slab, took the 5.7 sport rou...
Leesa on the top of Gulag Archipelago (p4)
Leesa on the top of Gulag Archipelago (p4)
Looking up the second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the second pitch.
Looking up the fourth pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the fourth pitch
Leesa traversing P3 towards Gulag Archipaelago.
Leesa traversing P3 towards Gulag Archipaelago.
Looking back across the third pitch traverse from ...
Looking back across the third pitch traverse from ...
Topo photograph of Dirty Pinkos.  Random climbers ...
BETA PHOTO: Topo photograph of Dirty Pinkos. Random climbers ...

Comments on Dirty Pinkos Add Comment
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By Suzanne Wilson 1
From: Placentia, California
Oct 15, 2013

What a spectacular route!!! The third pitch traverse was airy and exposed and made for some great pictures. I'd recommend helmets as there was enough loose rock. Descent is off the back along a path that joins in to Misery Ridge. Super easy descent.
By BSwett
From: Bend, Or.
Oct 25, 2013

Super creative line. Thanks guys for putting this thing up. Surprisingly clean considering the lack of traffic. I'd say you need more like 14+ draws, not 12.... And some long ones for the traverse will help with rope drag.
Also, when in doubt on the second pitch, go for the left hand bolt line.
By Blagoves
From: Portland, OR
May 23, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route! Used 16 draws on the P3 traverse. We linked it up with the 4th pitch of Gulag Archipalago.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just climbed this yesterday. Very nice route. Extremely safe with tons of bolts. The first three pitches all felt 5.8 or easier. The very last couple moves felt like 5.9, especially if you were shorter. The holds are all quite hollow/questionable right at the end as well. There is a bolt right where you would want it at poor rock section, so even if a hold were to break the fall wouldn't be very far. The entire rest of the climb had very good rock quality, so it really just about 6 feet at the very top that is questionable rock.

If you don't want to link the 3rd pitch into Gulag Archipelago, you definitely don't need 16 draws. Also, 3 or 4 shoulder slings are very helpful for the 3rd pitch to reduce rope drag through the gully. If I do it again and not link, I would bring probably 10 draws and 4 slings, plus anchor building materials.

We didn't do it, but it seems like you should be able to link the first two with a 70, and maybe even with a 60. Linking the 3rd into the finish on Gulag is easy with a 60. Linking the 3rd into the 4th of Dirty Pinkos is much shorter than a 60, but the sharp turn makes for very bad rope drag.
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Apr 4, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Got to disagree with all the praise for this route. It is safely bolted and does follow a cool line, but the loose and hollow rock on it is plentiful. I was lucky enough to climb it on a weekday and was intentionally cleaning minifridge sized blocks off this route on the lower pitches while I could still see that it was clear below. The upper pitches also need a great deal of cleaning for both lichen and bad rock.

I'd give it 1 star, an "OK" rating, and at most 5.8 in difficulty. It should get better over the years.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Apr 22, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Bryan - are you sure you were on the same route? I just climbed it again yesterday and its exactly as I remember it from last summer. There were definitely no minifridge sized blocks that could possibly be trundled last summer or yesterday.

Not much lichen on it. After climbing it for a second time, I think what I wrote last summer is still accurate - its really only the last maybe 8 feet that have poor quality rock. Everything else on the climb is quite solid.

That said, if you link the last pitch into the 4th pitch of Gulag Archipelago, then that pitch has some loose blocks that need to be trundled. Its a shame because the climbing is much better on that 4th pitch and would be the best finish, but until the loose crap on that pitch is cleaned I'm not sure I would recommend it.
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