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 ADVANCED
Upper Broadway
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Dirty Old Man 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler, Jon Harris, Dave Bushman, 1973
Page Views: 998
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Aug 3, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: First pitch of DOM.

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Description 

P1: Climb up the short wall to a small ledge beneath the large corner/flake. Climb the corner/flake to a good ledge. You can move up and a bit right to the wall (start of P2) and build a gear belay or move further right to a belay at bolts. If you use the bolts, beware of rope drag.

P2: From the bolts, move left and climb toward a steep, narrow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the Summit Ledge. Beware of loose rock at the top. A large piece (#4 Camalot) is helpful at the beginning of the pitch.


Location 

Left side of Upper Broadway Ledge about 40 feet right of the Upper Broadway Chimney. Look for an obvious left-facing corner/flake that lies about 10 feet off the ground. The right side of this flake forms Frosted Flake.


Protection 

Standard trad rack. Larger hexes and medium cams (#2/3/4) helpful.

Bolts at the end of P1 if you move about 20 ft left or build a gear anchor; bolted rap rings at the end of P2 behind the old, dying pine tree where the slings with rap rings used to be.



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Second pitch of DOM.
Second pitch of DOM.
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
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By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Aug 3, 2011

This is a very consistent 5.6 route. Fun, pumpy moves on P1 and an interesting P2 with some decent exposure.

  • **NEW*** As of JUL2012, rap rings have been installed at the top of P2 in the wall behind the old pine tree. I noticed these today and cut the slings off the dying pine tree.