Dirty Old Man  5.6

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 155 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Charlie Fowler, Jon Harris, Dave Bushman, 1973 Submitted By:  Andy Weinmann on Aug 3, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: First pitch of DOM.

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Description 

P1: Climb up the short wall to a small ledge beneath the large corner/flake. Climb the corner/flake to a good ledge. You can move up and a bit right to the wall (start of P2) and build a gear belay or move further right to a belay at bolts. If you use the bolts, beware of rope drag.

P2: From the bolts, move left and climb toward a steep, narrow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the Summit Ledge. Beware of loose rock at the top. A large piece (#4 Camalot) is helpful at the beginning of the pitch.

Location 

Left side of Upper Broadway Ledge about 40 feet right of the Upper Broadway Chimney. Look for an obvious left-facing corner/flake that lies about 10 feet off the ground. The right side of this flake forms Frosted Flake.

Protection 

Standard trad rack. Larger hexes and medium cams (#2/3/4) helpful.

Bolts at the end of P1 if you move about 20 ft left or build a gear anchor; bolted rap rings at the end of P2 behind the old, dying pine tree where the slings with rap rings used to be.

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Second pitch of DOM.

Pitch 1