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This is a great adventure route up a major corner system that eventually climbs an amazing chimney behind the obvious, large pillar in the middle of the wall. There is cruxy climbing on each of the 4 pitches, all with just enough pro to make it reasonable. But, a fall anywhere would be less than ideal! This route, like the other new routes on this wall put up over the last few seasons, serves up a healthy portion of CHOSS. But, if you're a seasoned San Juan adventurer, you should find enjoyment throughout. :O
It is about halfway between Bird Brain Boulevard and the Racing Stripes. This ascends very obvious corners leading to giant pillar on wall. See the pic.
We brought a double set of cams to a #3 Camalot, one #4, and a set of stoppers. Pins could be useful. Bring a 70m rope. Four raps gets you down with a bit of easy scrambling to reach the last rap anchor - all from stout trees. The second rap can be done with one rope, the others are all rope stretchers.
BETA PHOTO: Dirty Minds topo.
BETA PHOTO: The Wellborn on P3. The P4 chimney lies above.
|By phil wortmann|
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Apr 23, 2013
This route is a great addition to the Dark Side. We found every pitch to be time consuming due the wet snow, and that the route is new enough that the climbing and gear placements are definitely not obvious. Each pitch was fairly sustained and thought provoking. Just keep moving and trust that you'll find something....
The last pitch through the chimney definitely makes this a big-boy route! Props to the FA crew. Very runout, but the chimney gives you some security.