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 ADVANCED
Camp Bird Road
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems 
Bird Brain Boulevard 
Cavegina 
Chock Up Another One 
Chockstone Chimney 
Choppo's Chimney 
Cinnamon and Cider 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds 
Dumpster Diver 
Fistful of Steel 
Fractured Fairytales 
Going Retro 
Goldline 
Hairy Devil 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The 
Killer Pillar 
Local Scoop, The 
M6 Corner 
M7 Crack 
Maid to Order 
Mile 4 
Negligent Behavior 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Right) 
Ribbon, The 
Rusty Cage 
Senator Gulch 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The 
Skylight 
Slip Sliding Away 
Slippery When Wet 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) 
Talisman, The 
Tasty Talks 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte 
Wake Up Call 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene 
Weak and the Weary 
Unsorted Routes:

Dirty Minds 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a M6 R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, 4 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a M6 [details]
FA: Bryan Gilmore and Jim Turner
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall --> Spring
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Bryan Gilmore on Dec 16, 2012
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Jim Turner sending pitch one.
Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great adventure route up a major corner system that eventually climbs an amazing chimney behind the obvious, large pillar in the middle of the wall. There is cruxy climbing on each of the 4 pitches, all with just enough pro to make it reasonable. But, a fall anywhere would be less than ideal! This route, like the other new routes on this wall put up over the last few seasons, serves up a healthy portion of CHOSS. But, if you're a seasoned San Juan adventurer, you should find enjoyment throughout. :O


Location 

It is about halfway between Bird Brain Boulevard and the Racing Stripes. This ascends very obvious corners leading to giant pillar on wall. See the pic.


Protection 

We brought a double set of cams to a #3 Camalot, one #4, and a set of stoppers. Pins could be useful. Bring a 70m rope. Four raps gets you down with a bit of easy scrambling to reach the last rap anchor - all from stout trees. The second rap can be done with one rope, the others are all rope stretchers.



Photos of Dirty Minds Slideshow Add Photo
Dirty Minds topo.
BETA PHOTO: Dirty Minds topo.
The Wellborn on P3. The P4 chimney lies above.
BETA PHOTO: The Wellborn on P3. The P4 chimney lies above.
Comments on Dirty Minds Add Comment
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By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Apr 23, 2013

This route is a great addition to the Dark Side. We found every pitch to be time consuming due the wet snow, and that the route is new enough that the climbing and gear placements are definitely not obvious. Each pitch was fairly sustained and thought provoking. Just keep moving and trust that you'll find something....

The last pitch through the chimney definitely makes this a big-boy route! Props to the FA crew. Very runout, but the chimney gives you some security.