Dirty Love  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 175 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Colacino, Duncan New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Bill Duncan on Oct 3, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Dirty Love and Sheik Yerbouti.

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Description 

Dirty Love is one of the better routes on the Tooth. Some non-standard moves makes the climbing funky in a very fun sort of way. The features are all there, but stringing them together is the business. Climb up and to the right of the 2 small bushes... a few stem-jam-body-contorting moves later, climb through the bulge into a nice jam crack. Follow this up to the arete. Climb directly up the arete for a couple of moves until you can step back left into the dihedral. Jam/stem up to the top.

The poodle bites!
The poodle chews it!

Location 

Start at or 15' left of the orange dihedral. The orange dihedral is also the start to Sheik Yerbouti and The Central Scrutinizer, located on the right side of the Cavity. See the photo.

Protection 

Standard rack, with double #2/3 Camalots and a chunk of wide gear to protect the funk-o-rama.