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 ADVANCED
Zappa's Tooth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Scrutinizer T 
Dirty Love T 
Flakes T 
Sheik Yerbouti T 
Spinach is my New Lettuce T 
Titties & Beer T 
Trouble Every Day T 
What Would Frank Do? T 

Dirty Love 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Colacino, Duncan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Oct 3, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Dirty Love and Sheik Yerbouti.

Description 

Dirty Love is one of the better routes on the Tooth. Some non-standard moves makes the climbing funky in a very fun sort of way. The features are all there, but stringing them together is the business. Climb up and to the right of the 2 small bushes... a few stem-jam-body-contorting moves later, climb through the bulge into a nice jam crack. Follow this up to the arete. Climb directly up the arete for a couple of moves until you can step back left into the dihedral. Jam/stem up to the top.

The poodle bites!
The poodle chews it!


Location 

Start at or 15' left of the orange dihedral. The orange dihedral is also the start to Sheik Yerbouti and The Central Scrutinizer, located on the right side of the Cavity. See the photo.


Protection 

Standard rack, with double #2/3 Camalots and a chunk of wide gear to protect the funk-o-rama.



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