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 ADVANCED
The South Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T,S 
Bad Boys Bolt T 
Beer for Breakfast T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 
Birdland T 
Black Market T 
Blackstreak TR 
Dirty Love T 
Fun Flake T 
Funkativity T 
Go Spuds Go T 
Good Girls Don't T 
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 
Shadow Dance S 
Slab Happy S 
Sugar Mountain T 
Two Minds Meet T 
Wigs on Fire T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Dirty Love 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: J Bassett D Brady, 1982
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: Ross on May 3, 2011

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Description 

Below left side of roof in the corner, yard up first move in the crack, and clip old pin and back it up with small nut. Perform a couple of undercling moves to the right, then go around and up a right-facing corner following good crack. There are a couple of face moves mid way.

We found the crack to be clean (not dirty) except for couple of moves near top where climbing backs off.

At top of crack, proceed up face, 5.easy, trending right to rap station.

Rap to chains on face (skier's left) or with 70m rope a diagonal rap will bring you to ramp.


Location 

This is on the left side of the South Face under a slanting roof 20' off the ground. Start in a right-facing corner.


Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot, doubles are not needed.



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