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 ADVANCED
Arch Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation T 
Application T 
Bin, The T 
Blotto AKA Axis T 
Dirty Little Secret T 
English Breakfast Crack T 
Entrance Exam T 
Goldilocks T 
Gripper T 
Leanie Meanie T 
Midterm T 
New Dimensions T 
Short Circuit TR 
Short Circuit Chimney S 
Sidetrack T 
Supplication T 
TKO T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dirty Little Secret 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Greg Murphy and Bruce Morris (March '88)
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Bryan G on Feb 1, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: A not-so-good photo of Dirty Little Secret

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Description 

It's not as dirty as the name implies, but it does have a couple bushes growing out of the crack which will shower you with pollen as you climb past them. This isn't a hidden gem or anything but it's worth getting on if you're waiting for a party to finish up on Anticipation or Supplication. Not a bad climb to practice 5.9 OW technique, or you can lieback. It'd probably get climbed everyday if it was at Swan Slab.

At the top of the crack belay on the large ledge to the left. Then make a short downclimb to the ground. Hike down the hill and back to your stuff.

Location 

This is the farthest left route on the main Arch Rock formation. Follow the trail at the base of the cliff about 70 feet past the Anticipation/Supplication recess and look for the 4 to 5 inch crack in a corner.

Protection 

A couple #4 Camalots and a #5 will protect the bulk of the climbing. Also bring a couple hand sized pieces for behind a chock-stone up higher and a redirect for the belay.


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By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Jan 26, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Opening moves are real fun. Unfortunately the climbing deteriorates quickly into grass & grit. Fortunately the pitch isn't that long :-P It is worth doing once though, just for fun!
By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 19, 2013

Nice fists in a corner lead to a ledge. Wedged blocks and vegetation lead to a crispy belay tree.