Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
(4) Gold Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beyond the Glory S 
Chaos T,S 
Dirty Jugs S 
Kung Fu S 
Masterpiece Theatre T,S 
Screaming for Change T,S 
Siddhartha T 
Sweeping Beauty T,S 

Dirty Jugs 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin and Maggie Evansen, Bryan Smith, 4-05
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

At a section of boxy, jagged rock to the right of the prow of Masterpiece Theatre, locate a bolt about 10 feet up. Climb through easy blocky rock and avoid manteling onto the small ledge by going left. Make moves off of the first ledge, style points for not belly flopping, and up to a second ledge. Onwards and upwards through what are now not-too-dirty jugs, to another good stance, and a last slightly tenuous reach move to obtain the anchors.

You could also go right at the second big ledge onto Sweeping Beauty. This is the recommended approach for that route.

Location 

Right side of Gold Wall, left of suspended block and the deep corner of Sweeping Beauty.

Protection 

10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor


Comments on Dirty Jugs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ebb
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A couple of very awkward spots on the lower portion, which are harder than they would appear at first glance given the size of the ledges that you have to work with in these areas. However, the holds aren't right where you'd want them and/or bulges get in your way. The "jugs" come out once you reach the top portion, and fortunately aren't too dirty these days. This portion is a bit steep, so the jugs are nice to have to hang on to! I'd give the top 3 stars, but the bottom 1 star (so averages out to 2 stars).