Dirty Gerdie 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Tom Scheuer and Jim Andress, 1963 FFA: John Hudson, 1964 |
| Submitted By: | Bob Hayes on Aug 2, 2006 |
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Tricia at the start
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Up the middle of the face of the Herdie Gerdie block. Thin face moves between horizontals, with a line of fixed pins to point the way. Tree rap station/anchor on top can be backed up with gear. This is very fun climb despite being short. There is an 11a variation to the right, Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat), that is seldom led and often toproped. Both are quality routes.
Location Just before the Uberfall, in the center of a huge block that's 20' off the carriage road, and just before Bunny.
Protection Bring a few screamers if yer fat like me; those old fixed pins don't look so hot. Real small cams are helpful to back up the pins. Otherwise a few small-to-medium cams is all ya need to fill the remaining horizontals.
Jeff Arliss at a balancy stand-up move.
| Looking up Dirty Gerdie
| just out of reach
| hands are still a bit thin after the crux
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By gblauer From: Wayne, PA Aug 20, 2011
| I took a whip on this today. I backed up the top pin with a green alien and took an inadvertant 12 footer. All air. I thought I was through the crux when I came upon some slopey holds with not so great feet. Oops...off I skittered. It's a tad run out after the crux, you can get some crappy gear off to the right, but, I sure wouldn't want to fall on it. |
By S. Neoh Aug 21, 2011
| Oh, yeah, I remember those holds and the runout well. This route deserves more stars. And maybe a PG rating, hard to say for sure. 8+, hmmm, only at The Gunks! |
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