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 ADVANCED
Mosaic Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Cakes T 
Better Red Than Dead T 
Bienvenidos T 
Black Streak T 
Chicken Heads T 
Chicken Shit T 
Clean Green Dream T 
Cryin' in the Rain T 
Dirty Black Nightmare T 
Dirty Diagonal T 
Dung Alley T 
Five Years After T 
Fried Chickens T 
Holthouse to Hell T 
Mama Jugs T 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 
Rite of Summer Dreams T 
Seaman Girl T 
Serpent Face T 
Serpentine Crack T 
Summer Dreams T 
Suprise-Suprise T 
Techtonics T,S 
Techweenie S 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 
Walking Dread T 

Dirty Diagonal 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,726
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Kristen Samet on DD Photo courtesy of andrewburr....

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This good 5.7 route isn't actually dirty as the name would imply, and is probably the easiest route on Mosaic Rock. A good beginner climb.

Scramble up 3rd class slabs to the base of the biggest right angling crack on the south face of Mosaic Rock. Staying right of the crack on knobs and positive edges is easier than the wide crack itself. You can find pro in cracks between the flakes, keep an eye out for it. [There was a 2-bolt anchor at the end of the most interesting climbing, but it has been the subject of chopping & reinstallation, so make sure it's there before relying on it.] You can continue up to the Mosaic Rock summit from here by following low angle cracks and ledges (5.2), or- if the anchor is there- rappel back down to the 3rd class ledges. If you summit, scramble off the east side of the formation (some 3rd class).

Location 

This climb follows the big fat right-angling crack just right of the Mosaic Face, left of the Chicken Heads wall.

Protection 

Standard rack nuts + cams to 3", 4" cam optional.


Photos of Dirty Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
Jim Olsen on Dirty Diagonal
BETA PHOTO: Jim Olsen on Dirty Diagonal
Dirty Diagonal in perspective
BETA PHOTO: Dirty Diagonal in perspective
An unknown climber on Dirty Diagonal. She must hav...
An unknown climber on Dirty Diagonal. She must hav...

Comments on Dirty Diagonal Add Comment
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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I think this is a great climb. Don't let the word "Dirty" in the name dissuade you from giving it a go!