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This good 5.7 route isn't actually dirty as the name would imply, and is probably the easiest route on Mosaic Rock. A good beginner climb.
Scramble up 3rd class slabs to the base of the biggest right angling crack on the south face of Mosaic Rock. Good climbing on knobs and positive edges right of the crack is easier than the wide crack itself. You can find pro in cracks between the flakes, keep an eye out for it. [There was a 2-bolt anchor at the end of the most interesting climbing, but it has been the subject of chopping & reinstallation, so make sure it's there before relying on it.] You can continue up to the Mosaic Rock summit from here by following low angle cracks and ledges (5.2), or- if the anchor is there- rappel back down to the 3rd class ledges. If you summit, scramble off the east side of the formation (some 3rd class).
This climb follows the big fat right-angling crack just right of the Mosaic Face, left of the Chicken Heads wall.
Standard rack nuts + cams to 3", 4" cam optional.
BETA PHOTO: Jim Olsen on Dirty Diagonal
BETA PHOTO: Dirty Diagonal in perspective
An unknown climber on Dirty Diagonal. She must hav...
|By Bill Lawry|
From: New Mexico
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
I think this is a great climb. Don't let the word "Dirty" in the name dissuade you from giving it a go!