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Redgarden - Tower One
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Dirty Deed 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 550', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown, but probably in the 1950s
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 1,095
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Sep 8, 2010
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Last pitch of Dirty Deed. Spring, 1967.
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  • Description 

    Grunt your way up the West Chimney to the "Red Ledge" described elsewhere. Traverse South (right) underneath T-1 and face climb pleasant but somewhat fractured rock, and then the arete, directly to the sharp summit of Tower One. It is two pitches with a 50 meter rope, but it could be done in 1 long pitch with a 70 meter rope.


    Location 

    Hike up the West gully past the start for Yellow Spur and look for the prominent West Chimney. That is start of the climb.


    Protection 

    Standard Eldorado rack including some small wired nuts and a few smaller cams. No anchor at top; use gear anchor.



    Photos of Dirty Deed Slideshow Add Photo
    Roger Vohs following the final pitch of Dirty Deed, Spring, 1967.
    Roger Vohs following the final pitch of Dirty Deed...
    Looking down the final (3rd) pitch of Dirty Deed. 1967 ascent.
    Looking down the final (3rd) pitch of Dirty Deed. ...
    Roger Vohs, at the anchor.
    Roger Vohs, at the anchor.
    Comments on Dirty Deed Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Sep 8, 2010

    I am confused. I thought Dirty Deed went up the gully between T1 and Lumpe Tower (added later - above the Red Ledge).

    Edit: apparently, I've been confused along with a bunch of others. The gully is apparently Dirty Deed Chimney. Thanks, Dave, for the clarification from Steve Levin's excellent guidebook.

    By Rodger Raubach
    Mar 12, 2011

    Leo-I've climbed this route at least 7-8 times, and it had been pointed out to me by several other "well known" climbers at the time. The W. Chimney is the 1st lead of the Dirty Deed.

    By Rodger Raubach
    Mar 13, 2011

    Leo-

    The Dirty Deed leaves the West Chimney at the Red Ledge, and the climbing resumes about 20 feet to the right on the clean, steep face. There are plentiful holds and cracks to provide protection opportunities, and really great views. One of the most scenic routes in Eldorado. It then follows easy climbing to a ridge-spur, to climber's right facing rock, to the Yellow Spur summit.

    By Rick Pratt
    From: Denver
    Jul 30, 2011

    Just for the record this is what Rossiter says: Page 261 #33:

    "Not recommended. Often used as a rappel route.... Traverse right along The Red Ledge to the bottom of the gully between Lumpe Tower and Tower One (the Dirty Deed Chimney). Follow this chimney to the top."

    I may need to buy Levin's book.

    By Scott McMahon
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 30, 2012

    Summit rap anchors have the worst rope pull from friction I've ever seen. Expect difficult pulls the entire rope length.