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Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Lindsey and Rick Leitner, February 2000
Page Views: 3,114
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 2, 2001

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Jen Yuen high-stepping the crux move on the upper ...

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Description 

This route is on the right side of the south face of Surprising Crag, just right of The Touch and left of Double Down. It starts at a corner whose right face is split by a thin crack.

Climb the face and crack past two bolts. You can use the corner left of the bolts or the hand crack right of the bolts; both variations are about 5.8. Just using the thin crack and face by the bolts is a lot harder (10 a/b).

Head to the upper face and climb steep rock past 3 more bolts. A 10a crux is at the next-to-last bolt.

This is a fun route with several variations in the lower section.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive Slideshow Add Photo
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive.  The lower section can be climbed using the corner left of the bolts, the hand crack right of the bolts, or just the face and thin crack by the bolts. <br /> <br />The upper wall has a 10a face move past the next-to-last bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive. The lower section can...
Jen Yuen doing the left-hand variation on the lower face.
Jen Yuen doing the left-hand variation on the lowe...
Climbing with Bryan during spring break.
Climbing with Bryan during spring break.

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By Matt Gates
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Aug 30, 2008

Led the right corner variation with a purple alien to protect the initial move into the crack, then a #1 and a #4 Camalot. Good hand jams - just too short.
By S. F. Pitman
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2009

I think this is the most logically bolted route on the crag, which is sort of unfortunate since almost the entire thing could be protected (and the crux would be pretty ballsy if it was runout instead of bolted halfway through).

The small hands-and-fingers crack at the beginning makes this extra-cool, though the giant ledge halfway through is a little bit anticlimactic.