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Stone Mountain South Face
Routes Sorted
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Autumn Speaks 
Banana Breath 
Between The Ways 
Block Route 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home 
Captain Crunch 
Closer to the Heart 
Crystal Lizard 
Dirty Crack 
Dixie Crystals 
Electric Boobs 
Entrance Crack 
Face Value 
Fantastic 
Father Knows Best 
Fleet Feet 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 
Grand Funk Railroad 
Great Arch, The 
Great Brown Way 
Great White Way 
Mcgrady's route 
Mercury's Lead 
No Alternative 
Pandora's Way 
Peer Pressure 
Pulpit, The 
Purple Daze 
Rainy Day Women 
Rice Krispies 
Scimitar 
Storm in a Teacup 
Strawberry Preserves 
Toilet Bowl 
U Slot 
White Way Direct 
Yardarm 
Unsorted Routes:

Dirty Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Don Hunley, Jim McEver, Reid Thompson
Page Views: 2,704
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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One of my friends on dirty crack.

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Description 

At North Carolina's home of scary runout slab climbing, Dirty Crack is one of a handful of routes that's well-protected from start to finish. That doesn't mean it's easy; there's some thin moves midway up that might make you want to grab one of the trees growing out of the crack. "Dirty Crack" may have been an apt name in the past, but in fact this is a clean route that's a worthwhile lead.

Starting at the obvious right-facing dihedral, follow the thinning crack up past a couple of trees to the Tree Ledge.


Location 

Starts below the far right end of the Tree Ledge at a right-facing dihedral. 10' right of Entrance Crack. Rap on two ropes from rap rings at the top of Father Knows Best or any of the other Tree Ledge rap anchors.


Protection 

A good range of gear up to 4" (big pieces mainly near the start); there's also trees to sling. Anchor to trees at the top.



Photos of Dirty Crack Slideshow Add Photo
View from Pulpit P1 anchor, showing what the upper section of Dirty Crack looks like.
BETA PHOTO: View from Pulpit P1 anchor, showing what the upper...
Breanna seconding me on Dirty Crack. The hard moves are past midway just below the last small tree.
Breanna seconding me on Dirty Crack. The hard move...
not a must do for your first time back on slab in ten years.
not a must do for your first time back on slab in ...
Comments on Dirty Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 4, 2007

Great climb, almost totally out of character with the rest of Stone Mountain. A tenuous move or two where the crack is really thin adds to the spice.

By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Apr 9, 2010

I don't know why this is only a two-star climb. It's one of the best ways to get to Tree Ledge.

By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Did anybody notice the secret hold when the crack narrows down too far to hold onto?

By Jonathan Dull
From: NC High County
Feb 18, 2013

Great climb to gain the tree ledge when other climbs like entrance crack, u-slot, and block route are taken. Also, this provides a bit more of a challenge then the previously mention climbs. Tiny gear protects the thin section after the tree.

By Emil Briggs
Nov 4, 2013

Looks like the first tree that people sling for pro has seen better days.

By Jake Jones
From: The Eastern Flatlands
Nov 4, 2013

I agree Emil. It's a shame too because it's really not needed for pro. The crack under the arete right there takes good pro and there is good pro just after the tree as well. I have a feeling though that the beating the tree is taking is as much from people resting on it and using it to hold onto as from slinging it.