Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Stone Mountain South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Speaks T,S 
Banana Breath T 
Between The Ways S 
Block Route T 
Blood On The Tracks T 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 
Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Dirty Crack T 
Dixie Crystals T,S 
Dream Waves T 
Electric Boobs T 
Entrance Crack T 
Face Value T,S 
Fantastic T,S 
Father Knows Best T 
Fleet Feet T 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 
Grand Funk Railroad T 
Great Arch, The T 
Great Brown Way T,S 
Great White Way T 
Mcgrady's route T 
Mercury's Lead T,S 
No Alternative T 
Pandora's Way T 
Peer Pressure T 
Pulpit, The T 
Purple Daze T,S 
Purring, The T 
Rainy Day Women T 
Rice Krispies T 
Scimitar S 
Sermon, The T 
Storm in a Teacup S 
Strawberry Preserves T,S 
Taken For Granite T 
Toilet Bowl T,S 
U Slot T 
Wahoo Start T 
White Way Direct T 
Yardarm T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dirty Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Don Hunley, Jim McEver, Reid Thompson
Page Views: 2,907
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
One of my friends on dirty crack.

Description 

At North Carolina's home of scary runout slab climbing, Dirty Crack is one of a handful of routes that's well-protected from start to finish. That doesn't mean it's easy; there's some thin moves midway up that might make you want to grab one of the trees growing out of the crack. "Dirty Crack" may have been an apt name in the past, but in fact this is a clean route that's a worthwhile lead.

Starting at the obvious right-facing dihedral, follow the thinning crack up past a couple of trees to the Tree Ledge.

Location 

Starts below the far right end of the Tree Ledge at a right-facing dihedral. 10' right of Entrance Crack. Rap on two ropes from rap rings at the top of Father Knows Best or any of the other Tree Ledge rap anchors.

Protection 

A good range of gear up to 4" (big pieces mainly near the start); there's also trees to sling. Anchor to trees at the top.


Photos of Dirty Crack Slideshow Add Photo
View from Pulpit P1 anchor, showing what the upper section of Dirty Crack looks like.
BETA PHOTO: View from Pulpit P1 anchor, showing what the upper...
Breanna seconding me on Dirty Crack. The hard moves are past midway just below the last small tree.
Breanna seconding me on Dirty Crack. The hard move...
not a must do for your first time back on slab in ten years.
not a must do for your first time back on slab in ...

Comments on Dirty Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 4, 2007

Great climb, almost totally out of character with the rest of Stone Mountain. A tenuous move or two where the crack is really thin adds to the spice.
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Apr 9, 2010

I don't know why this is only a two-star climb. It's one of the best ways to get to Tree Ledge.
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did anybody notice the secret hold when the crack narrows down too far to hold onto?
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Feb 18, 2013

Great climb to gain the tree ledge when other climbs like entrance crack, u-slot, and block route are taken. Also, this provides a bit more of a challenge then the previously mention climbs. Tiny gear protects the thin section after the tree.
By Emil Briggs
Nov 4, 2013

Looks like the first tree that people sling for pro has seen better days.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Nov 4, 2013

I agree Emil. It's a shame too because it's really not needed for pro. The crack under the arete right there takes good pro and there is good pro just after the tree as well. I have a feeling though that the beating the tree is taking is as much from people resting on it and using it to hold onto as from slinging it.