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Routes Sorted
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69 
Apoplexy 
BB Route 
Birthday Biscuit Boy 
Black Fly 
Boston 
Brat Direct, The 
Bridal Path 
Bunny 
CC Route 
Charie 
Clover 
Coronary 
Crimson Corner 
Das Wiggles 
DD Route 
Dirty Chimney 
Dirty Gerdie 
Double Chin 
Double Clutch 
Easy Keyhole 
Eyebrow 
Fancy Idiot 
Fitschen's Folly 
Flake, The 
Handy Andy 
Harvard 
Heel Hook and Hack-it 
Herdie Gerdie 
Horseman 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang 
Jacob's Ladder 
Junior 
Katzenjammer 
Ken's Crack 
Keyhole 
Laurel 
Low Exposure 
Lower Eaves 
Mental Block (Toprope) 
Mitty Mouse  
Nice 5.9 Climb 
Nice Crack Climb 
No Picnic 
No Solution 
Nosedive 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) 
Phoebe 
Red Cabbage 
Red Cabbage Right 
Retribution 
Rhododendron 
Shit or Go Blind 
Short Job 
Sonja 
Squiggles 
Squiggles Direct 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation 
Susie A 
Trapped Like a Rat 
Uberfall Descent 
Walter Mitty 
Unsorted Routes:

Dirty Chimney 

5.0

   
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Type: Trad, 100 feet
Consensus: 5.0 [details]
FA: FRA Krist Raubenheimer
Submitted By: John Peterson on Aug 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

In spite of its name, this is a completely reasonable climb to introduce kids or the timid to climbing. Any competent climber can solo this route without much of a problem. It can be used to get down from adjacent climbs or to set top ropes on them, and it's also a good location for mock leading.

Climb the chimney right of Horseman and just left of Laurel. There are rappel bolts on top of Laurel.

Major tree-fall removed a huge tree from this route in 2010.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack



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By kenr
Aug 26, 2011

I think Dirty Chimney offers about the best 50 feet of readily accessible 5.0-5.1 climbing I've seen in the Northeast US. At most climbing areas, the easy routes are slabs. Leave it to the Gunks to offer one with interesting holds. It's fun to look for the "hidden" holds that make it only 5.0-5.1 (and avoid using actual chimney techniques).
Yes there is some dirt around (more if you go beyond the ledge on top of Laurel, all the way to the top of the gully, which I don't recommend) but most of the footholds and handholds are usually fairly clean (? except after a big rainstorm ?).

So if you just don't like climbing in enclosed spaces - or easy climbs - or short climbs - then of course don't do it (but then please don't whine about it).

If you are looking for interesting 5.0-5.1, perhaps intrigued by climbing in a 3-dimensional space, well here it is.