|Consensus: || Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||185|
|Submitted By: ||apeindex on Nov 3, 2011|
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BETA PHOTO: This is the SDS start of the problem. Notice the ...
This is a SDS problem. It starts the same way you would start Don't Talk Trash To The Garbage Man
and works straight up over the small bulge. Start how you want on the giant undercling (as undercling sidepull or crimps). Your feet must remain on the large boulder, and you cannot use the small rock under the main boulder for your feet. The first moves from the start will go straight up to slopers. Then reach further over the bulge and top out. The crux is either the first move or the top out and/or both!
This route is on Hobo Boulder. Looking at the south overhanging face, you will start on the bottom right of the boulder on the giant undercling/sidepull.
Crashpad. There is a stump close to the SDS, so a crashpad is highly recommended.