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By JdAvalanche
From slc, utah
Sep 23, 2009

Nate Brown wrote:
My suggestion to your dirtbag quest is to examine it as a period of limited time where time is If the goal is to climb a lot, be disciplined. Create a schedule. Don't wait around for the right weather, get it done. Don't succumb to the coffee shop lounging crowd, it will suck much of your life away. Watch out for overuse of controlled substances. Paranoia is the destroyer. Pick your partners carefully; in this regard, I reccomend getting partners who do have jobs. Time constraints can really help a send. One of the best dirtbags of that age was John Varco. He lived like a monk in a shitty minivan, took scheduled rest days, got up early, climbed a ton, never smoked dope, only drank good scotch on rare occasions... Nate Brown


No, for god sake! being a dirtbag is about the lifestyle. If you want to climb as if it were your job then you might as well have a full-time job and train like some lycra clad pendejo.

I recommend smoking as much high quality dope as possible. In fact, any kind of mood altering substance should be consumed without question. Also, a proper dirtbag does not wake up early to climb. Rather, he/she doesn't crack the first post-climb beer of the day until well after dark. Remember that being a dirtbag is about leaving the rat race. Not starting a new one.


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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2009
Half Dome

Abuse Walmart as much as possible. That place ruins any sense of decent community development known to man.

Have a plan to do something with your time other then climbing that will positively influence your future. You need rest days and a point to life post dirtbagging. A little work towards that will calm the "what am I doing out here" nerves.

put whatever job skills you have to good use. be creative.

camp as much as possible. sleeping in the car just doesn't seem great over a long haul. better to be out under the stars.

visit as many friends as you can or get them to visit you. sure you will meet friends, but you'll want someone you have a history with to share this adventure.

be careful who to trust with your life on the line. true friends won't force or con you into dangerous situations you don't want to be in. not all partners are made from the same mould.

shower and shave regularly....then pray for that girl wandering by looking for a guy with little money, who lives out of his car, has no job, and only has Ramen noodles, beef jerky, and cheap beer for dinner.

or better yet, bring a girl with you. a much better plan then traveling solo. the demand for more creature comforts and the occasional fight is worth it for a continuous supply of conversation, companionship, and sex.

and if you visit Yosemite and don't bum gear, eat leftover foot at the cafeteria, have to sleep in the woods at least once to avoid the rangers, and charm your way into beer/smokes at various campsites - you aren't a true dirtbag and may as well just get a job.


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By Gaar
From Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sep 24, 2009
Krunk Juice 12d (probably 2nd ascent?) <br />Zion NP <br />Photo Eric Draper

One thing I've learned over the years, If you have to ask how to be a dirtbag then your probably not naturally a DB...But over time it will come to you.


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By Nate Brown
From Wilson, Wy
Sep 24, 2009
mug shot

JD Avalanche,

I stated:

If the goal is to be a dirtbag, move in to a car, mooch off others, spend little, spray lots. A climbing bum is still a bum. It used to drive me crazy when I did not have a partner pre-arranged and I had to wait at the coffee shop until noon some times to get a dirtbag to shake off the cobwebs in order to get out on the stone.

You are that guy!!! or at least you profess to be. Please re-read my post. I followed it up with another caveat: "If the goal is to climb a lot..."

I understand that many climbers out there, seems like you included, are more in it for the lifestyle than the climbing. I have no problem with that. I was just trying to give advice to a younger guy who may have the world at his fingertips.

I'm a big proponent of mutual respect. I respect the fact that you like to party. I do too. Can you respect the fact that many climbers out there, myself in this case as well, full time or non are in it for more than, or a different version of, "the lifestyle".

Thanks,

Nate Brown

ps, I was wrong about Jon Varco. Even though he lived in a van and got by on about 5,000 per year, he was more of a climber than he ever was a dirtbag. On that point, if you were calling me a lycra clad pendejo, that is fine. I'd be shocked if you were referring to Varcs. Once a bro, always a bro. Definetly not a bro you would want to fuck with.


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By awesomejacksonhole
From Laramie, WY
Sep 24, 2009

JdAvalanche wrote:
I recommend smoking as much high quality dope as possible. In fact, any kind of mood altering substance should be consumed without question. Also, a proper dirtbag does not wake up early to climb. Rather, he/she doesn't crack the first post-climb beer of the day until well after dark. Remember that being a dirtbag is about leaving the rat race. Not starting a new one.


I'd have to agree with you on this one. I personally party more than I climb, but still get up 5.13's. When I go on a road trip I know how to have F-U-N. Many of my friends are at the gym all the time and will cross train in their free time. They all climb harder than me but who cares? I get more A-S-S!


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By jersey
From park city, utah
Sep 24, 2009
zion wall monkey

N"F'IN"B, i resemble your remarks and i think with all said I'm still amazed of all that a dirtbag can get done even with a hang over, a late start and the whole greater socio-economic system working against them.
It's definitely a lifestyle choice, sort of like a rich suburban kid begging on the streets in protest of conformity.
just remember that we're all in it for our own reasons and goals and experiences.

i wouldn't change a moment of my dirtbag upbringing.

to all aspiring dirtbags: positive attitude, ingenuity, flexibility, and ability to make yourself comfortable in the worst of conditions, keep it simple

what stone monkey fool would say: "My fun is more enlightening that your fun"


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By Nate Brown
From Wilson, Wy
Sep 25, 2009
mug shot

JD,

Calm down. I told you that it would be fine for you to call me a pendejo. How much less threateneing can it get?

I was really saying that you might not want to cast dispersions on Jon. Do you know the guy? He is awesome. And a hockey goalie from Minnesota. Should I say more?


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