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Director of Humor Affairs 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Todd Perkins, 1995
Season: not summer
Page Views: 3,411
Submitted By: richard magill on Apr 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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Cord making the committing first clip on Director ...

Description 

Really fun jug haul - steep with big holds.

Starts with a steep rightward traverse on good holds to a huge horn. The crux is right down near the first and second bolts.

Location 

This is the furthest left route on the crag. A nice looking 5.13 is just to the right of this route.

Protection 

5 bolts to chain anchors


Photos of Director of Humor Affairs Slideshow Add Photo
director of human affairs
director of human affairs
Director of Humor Affairs; Saint George, UT
Director of Humor Affairs; Saint George, UT
Awesome Climb
Awesome Climb
At the start
At the start
coming out of calf hook
BETA PHOTO: coming out of calf hook
Sheralee.
Sheralee.
director of human affairs
director of human affairs
Me.
Me.
Red Rock fun
Red Rock fun

Comments on Director of Humor Affairs Add Comment
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By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
Dec 28, 2006

Biggest holds imaginable, with climbing very reminiscent of the cave in the gym. Some of the jugs are loose though, so test and climb with care.
By tenesmus
May 20, 2007

definitely easier than those .10's on the middle of the wall. Great warmup.
By EricW
From: Sandy, Ut
Jan 22, 2008

Great climb, but rating might be a little soft...but I will take it. I did not notice any loose holds and I climbed it twice and my wife did also. Great climb. Get on it!
By Skyler Penrod
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Awesome climb. Move quick and avoid the pump. Overhanging exposed climbing with large jugs lead to vertical or less than vertical rock with balancy moves on okay holds. My first .11a.
By oliver
Jan 11, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great Route and pumpy but not 11a. If I were to rate it I would say maybe 10c.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Dec 20, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

5.10c-5.11a. I'll let someone who's at that level decide since the difference isn't as clear anymore. The truth is it's easy and it's a great warm up if you're going to hop on anything inside the cave.
By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Apr 3, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If you liked this route try Lambada. It's much better, and a more solid 5.11a. It contains the best part of Director of Humor affairs, but it has even a better crux on the variation.
By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Oct 5, 2013

The second bolt has been replaced once again. It is a large glue-in bolt and is bomber. A must do everytime one climbs at Turtle Wall.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Two thoughts: First, if you have short folks in your party, ( 5 feet or less) they will need a boost to get to the first hold. Second, the first clip is easy to get to -- you can just campus out to it, and if you can heel hook, it is not hard to clip it. But if you fell, trying to clip it, you could get seriously hurt. Stick clip is a good idea. It is a super fun climb!
By Beau Skelton
From: Palm Desert, UT
May 20, 2015

This climb took me back to the Red River Gorge.. Heady first clip (if you don't stick clip.) Very fun moves on an overhung wall. Pretty much a jug haul, My personal consensus would be more along the lines of hard 10C/easy 10D. Classic for the area in my opinion, and definitely worth checking out.
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