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Directissima 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Hans Kraus & Stan Gross - 1956
FFA: Jim McCarthy - 1963
Page Views: 14,507
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (192)
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An unknown climber on the P2 arete.

Description 

Directissima is most commonly (if not always) done as a more difficult start to High Exposure. It kicks up the difficulty a few grades, but it delivers a first pitch that is almost as classic as High E's final pitch.

1. Begin a little ways right of the original start of High Exposure, near the nose of the buttress. Make a bouldery move up to a ramp and a leaning crack to a low roof, undercling around this roof and around the corner to the right (slick holds, some tricky gear). Continue up the face to the obvious belay ledge on the right side of the High Exposure buttress. A short pitch: 5.9, 60'.

2. From the left end of the ledge, traverse up and left, almost to the arete. From here you have to perform a difficult long reach to a good hold (5.9+), which is well protected with fixed pins. Belay at a perch just after the crux.

3. Easier climbing leads directly up the very exposed arete to the spacious area on the GT ledge.

It is possible to vary or combine the climbing to the GT in several ways, including: a) climbing straight up just after turning the major arete on P1 (a nudge harder and a bit more runout), b) belaying only at the perch past the P2 crux, or c) linking the entire pitch to the GT.

Finally: Continue up High Exposure's last pitch - how else would you finish a classic route?

Descend by the bolted rappel route right of the buttress (one rope will do).


Protection 

Standard Rack, many fixed pins on the climb.



Photos of Directissima Slideshow Add Photo
Boris.  April 18, 2009.
Boris. April 18, 2009.
The beautiful Directissima arete. Photo taken by Denis O'Connor
The beautiful Directissima arete. Photo taken by D...
Same climber, reaching the High E ledge.
Same climber, reaching the High E ledge.
Unknown climber on Directissima. Taken from one of the bolted rap stations.  July 25, 2012.
Unknown climber on Directissima. Taken from one of...
Unknown climber finishing off P2
Unknown climber finishing off P2
April 1988. Mark Taylor on the P2 traverse of Directissima.
April 1988. Mark Taylor on the P2 traverse of Dire...
Jenny on the traverse on a beautiful October night in 2010.
Jenny on the traverse on a beautiful October night...
Owen clipping the crux piton
Owen clipping the crux piton
Ritwik about to hit the crux
Ritwik about to hit the crux
Owen on the traverse
Owen on the traverse
Jekich climbing to the GT ledge
Jekich climbing to the GT ledge
Melissa starting the arete pitch
Melissa starting the arete pitch
Mike starting up Directissima, just past the p.1 5.8 crux.  The thin, runout start to Enduro Man climbs the pretty orange face below.
Mike starting up Directissima, just past the p.1 5...
In the middle of the traverse.
In the middle of the traverse.
Directissima P1 corner traverse.  Not as awkward as it may seem.
Directissima P1 corner traverse. Not as awkward a...
Just after the pin
Just after the pin
Approaching the GT Ledge.
Approaching the GT Ledge.
Owen at the first crux
Owen at the first crux
The P2 traverse.
The P2 traverse.
Climber rounding the P1 crux
Climber rounding the P1 crux
N.A. rounding Directissima P1 corner.
N.A. rounding Directissima P1 corner.
Climbers on Pitch 2
Climbers on Pitch 2
Comments on Directissima Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 21, 2013
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Nov 16, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's an outstanding route from start to finish!

By Cory B
Jan 18, 2008

I would recommend doing it in 4 pitches unless your team is solid.

By Brian Aitken
Mar 20, 2008

words can't express how much i love this route... do it in 4 pitches, it's quick, saves rope drag and it's a fun short 5.9 pitch.

By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

i usually link the first two pitches and dont have that much a problem with rope drag.. just keep long runners on everything. saves a bit of time

that being said, this is the BEST way to do high E as it makes for 3 or 4 pitches of spectacular climbing. the arete pitch is stellar.

By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 23, 2008

For the variation, bring some small gear! Definitely recommend this, makes the Directissima even more directissima-ey.

By Spiro
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

You can def. do the the second and third pitch as one with little to no rope drag. Just add long runner to the traverse and the pin at the end and it is smooth running. Good climb.

By Jay Harrison
Jun 23, 2010

The section above the lower crux can be tackled by using the weaknesses 10' left of the arÍte, or by climbing more difficult terrain very close to it.

For the last pitch, one can keep the difficulty level up by tackling the High Ex pitch via starting on top of a boulder beneath the small left-facing corner that leads to the jutting boulder at the crux. This is hard 5.8 (maybe 9?), PG13 (needs small RPs), and significantly ups the ante for the last pitch. Joining the crux route after this eases things back down - which may be desired by then - or continuing up rightward keeps things hard (very hard) and a bit dicey on pro.

By Heather Selitrennikoff
From: East Coast
Oct 12, 2010

We had major rope drag going around that first corner making it difficult for the leader on the face portion. He ended up belaying at the ledge at the top of the face before the arete portion. Nice climb with some pumpy moves. Would have been better for him without the rope drag. Nice link up to High E.

If you want a great Gunks photo opp, have your friends climb Modern Times at the same time and take a photo of you on the arete of Directissima from the Modern Times GT ledge.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Linked Directissima and High E - A classic Line!

By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Nov 9, 2010

from the ground to the GT ledge can be linked with doubles but I don't particularly recommend it. My main comment is to ensure that you climb right up the arete rather than farther left on the second pitch (which is what I did the first time I climbed this). So much more exposed and classic.

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Mar 25, 2012

It's totally reasonable to link the entire thing in one pitch if you have doubles, especially if you do the 5.10b/c variation (which is sick). I would recommend if you are doing the harder variation to bring even your smallest micro cams on it, though -- they help.

By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Apr 11, 2012

When climbing this we were under the impression that the move up through the pin was 5.10+, so we traversed around the arete on the Pitch II traverse to the left of the pin. Excellent & easy blind move around the corner, then cruised up the left face to join the arete.
As someone already mentioned you can climb the face, but MAKE SURE you slide over to the right to climb the arete, beautiful exposed and easy climbing leads you to the GT ledge @ High E. A bit of rope drag but seemed worth it to remove the 5.9 mini-pitch.

By Joe Baker
From: Phoenix, MD
Jun 25, 2012

We started right of P1 start and linked back up with Directissima for the second pitch. The crack traverse is entertaining, definitely a great bolder problem that requires a solid amount of strength.

By K Baumgartner
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did it in 3 pitches and didn't have any rope drag issues. Thought the crux for P1 was the layback off the ground and then the awkward moves to gain the roof traverse. Although short and sweet, P2 was a bit of a pump fest by the time I got up to clip the pin and make the long reach move, which I thought was 5.9+. Once I found the correct hand holds, it was definitely at least a V3 bouldery move. Definitely worth giving this route a twirl.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 18, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I loved this route. Just a perfect line with perfect stone.

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 10, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

That reachy 5.9 move really got my goat. I pulled on my draw on the piton. My partner who is shorter than me made the move look easy though. Traverse is easy but pumpy. Finished on the last pitch of High E in the dark with one headlamp. Classic outing.

By Chris Seminack
From: Fairfax, VA
Jun 16, 2013

If there is a long wait to do the High E money pitch or you want to spice things up a bit, I highly suggest walking around the corner on the GT ledge and linking up to the final pitch of Lakatakissima. It is a phenomenal sustained 5.8 pitch that doesn't seem to get much traffic.

By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agree with Chris regarding Lakatakissima. Great, pumpy and sustained 5.8 pitch. P1 was a nice wake-up in the AM. The P2 crux is just a reach. I'm 5'6" and ended up just needing to get my body position right so I could reach and walk my fingers up with my left hand. P3 was just pure fun. All around great route.

By losbill
Nov 4, 2013

Another thumbs up for the final pitch of Lakatakissima. Looking up I wasn't expecting much since it looked like it didn't get a lot of traffic. I was very pleasantly surprised. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Fun, interesting climbing at grade pretty much the entire pitch.

By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Nov 21, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Found this one to be very pumpy for 5.9 compared to ants line, bonnie's, apoplexy, etc