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Sunday Slabs
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Center Crack T 
Directissima S 
Sevy T 

Directissima 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unkown
Page Views: 451
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jan 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Dave leading Directissima

Description 

From the base of Sunday Slab, Directissima climbs 100' past three bolts to a two-bolt anchor at mid-way. Rappel (you may have to leave a biner if its gone), or climb past two more bolts, then over a roof protected by a cam to belay at the top of the slab. Great route.

Protection 

a half dozen draws and a light rack for the last belay.


Photos of Directissima Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up the 2nd pitch of Directissima.
Looking up the 2nd pitch of Directissima.

Comments on Directissima Add Comment
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By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Run out to first bolt. Slab-tastic for sure. I felt like my feet were going to pop the entire way. But not that steep so 5.7 rating is fair.
By Will Rynes
From: Grovetown, GA
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

First bolt was slightly run out but not bad. The anchor at the end of P1 had webbing with a rap ring on it. Only found one bolt on P2 which had a sling girth-hitched through it with a carabiner on the end. The book that I have shows a two bolt anchor at the top which I never saw (might have missed it). Ended up traversing right, below the roof placing a couple cams, over to P2 of center crack. Clipped a bolt and finished at the two bolt anchor on P2 of that route.
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I'd say a solid 40'+ to the first bolt (placed 4'+ too high so you can't clip from the easy stance also) - exciting for sure.

P1 anchor had a single small quicklink on each bolt. Not exactly a good setup for rapping.