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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Burning Chrome T 
Cinders And Saints T 
Color of Pomegranates, The T 
Controlled Burn  T 
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Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 
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Everybody Route, The T 
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Tower Corner Exit T 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Waiting Room T 
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West Chimney T 
Zot Face, The T 

Direct Variation to Zot Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria, Lee Rozaklis
Page Views: 490
Submitted By: Tombo on Jul 7, 2013

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  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This pitch links from the 2nd pitch of The Great Zot to the beginning of Zot Face. From the 2nd belay of The Great Zot, move up the red ledge to the left-facing dihedral, and follow it up and trending slightly left to large roof (same strata as the roof on The Great Zot's 3rd pitch. Pull over at the obvious break in the roof, and follow the crack up toward a small tree where you can belay (uncomfortable). For a better belay, do a right rising traverse to just beyond a tree (30'?) where a decent ledge can be found (rope drag can be an issue).

    There are a number of hollow flakes on the pitch, but all can be easily climbed around using solid hand and foot holds. The beginning dihedral takes good stoppers.

    Protection 

    Standard rack to gold #3; one old pin just down from where you come into the roof; doubles on gold, red, and green if belaying at 1st tree.


    Comments on Direct Variation to Zot Face Add Comment
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    By Eric Sjoden
    Apr 6, 2016

    This is the green, left-facing dihedral. The abundance of lichen testify to how seldom it is climbed. This is a "pull down, not out" pitch... unless you are in the roof. Thoughtful gear, tread lightly. Not recommended for new trad climbers but certainly a fun 5.8 pitch that adds a little spice and variety to the route as a whole.

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