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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Abracadabra TR 
Burning Chrome T 
Cinders And Saints T 
Color of Pomegranates, The T 
Controlled Burn  T 
Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 
Doris Gets Her Oats T 
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Everybody Route, The T 
Fanning the Flame T 
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 
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Great Zot, The T 
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Maverick T 
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Northumberland Crack T 
Paris Girl S 
Piece of the Sun  T 
Please Close Lid T 
Rabbits From Hats T 
Razors to Rubble T 
Rebuffat's Arete T 
Rewritten T 
Roof Wall, The T 
Silver Raven T 
Spur of the Moment T 
Sunstar T 
Swanson Arete T 
Tower Corner Exit T 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Waiting Room T 
Warm and Fuzzy T 
West Chimney T 
Zot Face, The T 

Direct Variation to Zot Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria, Lee Rozaklis
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Tombo on Jul 7, 2013

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  • Description 

    This pitch links from the 2nd pitch of The Great Zot to the beginning of Zot Face. From the 2nd belay of The Great Zot, move up the red ledge to the left-facing dihedral, and follow it up and trending slightly left to large roof (same strata as the roof on The Great Zot's 3rd pitch. Pull over at the obvious break in the roof, and follow the crack up toward a small tree where you can belay (uncomfortable). For a better belay, do a right rising traverse to just beyond a tree (30'?) where a decent ledge can be found (rope drag can be an issue).

    There are a number of hollow flakes on the pitch, but all can be easily climbed around using solid hand and foot holds. The beginning dihedral takes good stoppers.


    Protection 

    Standard rack to gold #3; one old pin just down from where you come into the roof; doubles on gold, red, and green if belaying at 1st tree.



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