Start as for Slot
, and continue almost to the top of the west bench. Put a pink tricam in the base of the final finger crack and do a semi hard traverse left to gain a ledge midway up the second pinnacle. Make sure you get gear in high in a semi-dirty crack filled with a tree to protect your second! Set up a belay and watch your second nervously pull the pink tricam and sketch across the traverse.
Now for the fun part. Climb straight up a hand crack to a horizontal crack running right. Good pro here. Traverse right along the beautiful, horizontal handcrack until you are almost above the sketchy traverse and then fire straight up the arete, with small cams and stoppers for pro. Great Exposure!
Start with Slot
, directly right of the 5.10 X roof.
Rap off the summit to the north with a 60 meter rope, then rap from the the top of the west bench to the base of the Second Pinnacle.
It's thin in spots, with some nasty fall potential on the arete and traverse. BIG eyebolt at top.
BETA PHOTO: 2nd Pinnacle East Face R->L: West Bench Dihedra...
BETA PHOTO: Photo provided by John Brooks.
|Comments on Direct to top of Second Pinnacle