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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Select Route:
2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right 
D.A.'s Route 
Dialysis Bag 
Direct North Face 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] 
Diversion 
East Bench Dihedral 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) 
First Pinnacle SE Face 
Inset, The 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) 
Macropsychotic 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) 
Northeast Chimney 
Now and Zen 
Outside East Face 
P.S. I'm Blonde 
Pizza Pie Crack 
Red Gully, The 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) 
Second Pinnacle East Face 
Second Pinnacle South Face 
Shortcut 
Siberian North Face 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 
Standard Inside East Face 
T-Zero West Face 
Tyrolean Traverse 
West Bench Dihedral 
West Face (of T-Zero) 

Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 417
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on Apr 28, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Photo provided by John Brooks.
  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Start as for Slot, and continue almost to the top of the west bench. Put a pink tricam in the base of the final finger crack and do a semi hard traverse left to gain a ledge midway up the second pinnacle. Make sure you get gear in high in a semi-dirty crack filled with a tree to protect your second! Set up a belay and watch your second nervously pull the pink tricam and sketch across the traverse.

    Now for the fun part. Climb straight up a hand crack to a horizontal crack running right. Good pro here. Traverse right along the beautiful, horizontal handcrack until you are almost above the sketchy traverse and then fire straight up the arete, with small cams and stoppers for pro. Great Exposure!


    Location 

    Start with Slot, directly right of the 5.10 X roof.
    Rap off the summit to the north with a 60 meter rope, then rap from the the top of the west bench to the base of the Second Pinnacle.


    Protection 

    Pink tricam...?
    It's thin in spots, with some nasty fall potential on the arete and traverse. BIG eyebolt at top.



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