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Castle Rock
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One 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
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Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Trainspotting 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Direct Start 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alec Sharp, (~1980?)
Season: Faces South/Southwest
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Tony B on May 2, 2012

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Description 

This is a reasonable climb with gear that presents itself when needed but not much more often than that. The climbing is probably about 5.8, give or take.

From a point on the ground 1/2 way between the base of Tongo and Circadian Rhythms, climb up and perhaps even slightly right here and there past discontinuous cracks and flakes. A few small and medium nut placements appear as you go. The climbing is mostly secure and on large holds. Begin heading up and left once a good series of ledges can be seen, placing the occasional nut or cam with a long sling.

Eventually, this line will traverse off of the left end of the ledge that is contiguous with the top of Tongo and cross a "trough" to reach the base of Sticky Fingers or Cussin' Crack. Depending on where you decide to stop and belay, this will be 35-45 meters long.


Location 

This route starts a few meters left of the bottom of Tongo. It roughly follows a line up from a point on the ground 1/2 way between the base of Tongo and Circadian Rhythms for 10 meters, then starts working up and left for the remainder of it's length, joining either Cussin' Crack or Sticky Fingers.


Protection 

A light rack of nuts and cams, with plenty of long slings. This is not a beginner lead, as it requires a solid head, but not terribly dangerous either. Gear opportunities are to be had along most of its length, they are not all easy placements though.



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