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Direct Southeast is another great 5.11 finger crack at the Tower. Pitch one is small fingers with intricate lie-backing, trust a foot and escape to the arete or stay in the crack the whole way (90 ft). Pitch two continues up the sustained finger crack with a defined crux at about 100 ft, the climbing then becomes easier and opens up to nice hand crack (130 ft).
Rappel Bon Homme Variation
Good protection, small stoppers and cams, hand size pieces for the top of pitch two, a couple fixed pins on each pitch, bolted anchors for pitch one, pitch two requires a #2, #3, and #4 camalot for an anchor.
|Comments on Direct Southeast
|By Sean Nelb|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 15, 2012
This is a great route. It has numerous difficult moves but has some rests in spots. Both pitches can be linked together quite readily with a 70m rope. A few anchoring options in the meadows are limited, but you can also use Walt Bailey Memorial's bolts.