Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South and East Faces
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker Land T 
Best Crack in Minnesota T 
Bon Homme Variation T 
Cave T 
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 
Direct Southeast T 
Double Indemnity T 
Dusk In Dogtown T 
El Cracko Diablo T 
Extension T 
Free Association T 
Hollywood & Vine T 
interesting problem below, The T 
Let Me Go Wild T 
Roach Addition T,S 
Rocksuckers S 
Soler T 
Soler Eclipse S 
Space Ranger T 
TAD T 
Walt Bailey T 
Windex T 
Window (Free), The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Direct Southeast 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong, Mark Smedley and Karin Budding
Page Views: 523
Submitted By: aschwartz on Jun 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Direct Southeast is another great 5.11 finger crack at the Tower. Pitch one is small fingers with intricate lie-backing, trust a foot and escape to the arete or stay in the crack the whole way (90 ft). Pitch two continues up the sustained finger crack with a defined crux at about 100 ft, the climbing then becomes easier and opens up to nice hand crack (130 ft).

Location 

Rappel Bon Homme Variation

Protection 

Good protection, small stoppers and cams, hand size pieces for the top of pitch two, a couple fixed pins on each pitch, bolted anchors for pitch one, pitch two requires a #2, #3, and #4 camalot for an anchor.


Comments on Direct Southeast Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sean Nelb
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 15, 2012

This is a great route. It has numerous difficult moves but has some rests in spots. Both pitches can be linked together quite readily with a 70m rope. A few anchoring options in the meadows are limited, but you can also use Walt Bailey Memorial's bolts.