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Eastpost Spire
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Direct Southeast Ridge T 
Northwest Ridge T 

Direct Southeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1800', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: M. Sherrick and party, 1955
Page Views: 1,006
Submitted By: Dr. Evil on Dec 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: View up the SE Ridge of Eastpost, from our low poi...


This route is the right (east) skyline of Eastpost Spire when viewed from the Kain hut. The route makes a good introduction to Bugaboo climbs or something to do when the weather is not great, because it is short and requires no glacier travel for the approach.

From the hut, hike down the trail (as if going to the parking lot) to the point where the trail crosses the main creek. Before dropping down into the switchbacks, cross the meadows and head for the ridge.

There are many ways to get to the ridgeline, none of which are particularly difficult. After reaching the ridge, head up along the ridge crest to the summit. There are short 5th class "steps" along the ridge that are the crux of the climb. These can be avoided on the right (north) if you want an easier climb.

Descend the Northwest Ridge for a fun traverse of Eastpost.


This route is the right (east) skyline of Eastpost Spire when viewed from the Kain hut.

See above for more details.


A few nuts and a couple cams should be plenty. The technical climbing is rarely more than 30 feet per "pitch".

Photos of Direct Southeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the steps along the ridge
One of the steps along the ridge

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By Hans
From: Squamish, BC
Jan 23, 2015

On a rainy rest day we got a break in the weather and so my partner and I climbed this route, mostly for something to do.

So first I have to say that it's kind of a POS compared to all the other routes in the Bugaboos, but we had a good time and so that's why I give it 3 stars. There's some loose rock, and not much in the way of climbing, but it's gets you to the top of the spire. And then you can go down a different way which is always nice. Plus you end up at the little lake where you can go for a "refreshing" swim.

We did not follow the description above, which matches that of the guidebook. Instead we traversed directly over to the ridge from Applebee camp and followed what seemed to be the best way to the summit, which took perhaps an hour or maybe an hour and a half. We brought a half rope and a few pieces of gear which we used in two places. I imagine most people would not need it. Any difficulties were short, and not really very difficult. Somewhat like VB- boulder problems.

The last little bit to the summit had some good exposure but the rock was really good for a change.

Don't plan your trip around it, but if you are bored and want to kill a couple of hours .....

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