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Eastpost Spire
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Direct Southeast Ridge T 
Northwest Ridge T 

Direct Southeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1800', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: M. Sherrick and party, 1955
Page Views: 682
Submitted By: Dr. Evil on Dec 8, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: View up the SE Ridge of Eastpost, from our low poi...

Description 

This route is the right (east) skyline of Eastpost Spire when viewed from the Kain hut. The route makes a good introduction to Bugaboo climbs or something to do when the weather is not great, because it is short and requires no glacier travel for the approach.

From the hut, hike down the trail (as if going to the parking lot) to the point where the trail crosses the main creek. Before dropping down into the switchbacks, cross the meadows and head for the ridge.

There are many ways to get to the ridgeline, none of which are particularly difficult. After reaching the ridge, head up along the ridge crest to the summit. There are short 5th class "steps" along the ridge that are the crux of the climb. These can be avoided on the right (north) if you want an easier climb.

Descend the Northwest Ridge for a fun traverse of Eastpost.

Location 

This route is the right (east) skyline of Eastpost Spire when viewed from the Kain hut.

See above for more details.

Protection 

A few nuts and a couple cams should be plenty. The technical climbing is rarely more than 30 feet per "pitch".


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