|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1800', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|FA:||M. Sherrick and party, 1955|
|Submitted By:||Dr. Evil on Dec 8, 2007|
|Comments on Direct Southeast Ridge||Add Comment|
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From: Squamish, BC
Jan 23, 2015
On a rainy rest day we got a break in the weather and so my partner and I climbed this route, mostly for something to do.
So first I have to say that it's kind of a POS compared to all the other routes in the Bugaboos, but we had a good time and so that's why I give it 3 stars. There's some loose rock, and not much in the way of climbing, but it's gets you to the top of the spire. And then you can go down a different way which is always nice. Plus you end up at the little lake where you can go for a "refreshing" swim.
We did not follow the description above, which matches that of the guidebook. Instead we traversed directly over to the ridge from Applebee camp and followed what seemed to be the best way to the summit, which took perhaps an hour or maybe an hour and a half. We brought a half rope and a few pieces of gear which we used in two places. I imagine most people would not need it. Any difficulties were short, and not really very difficult. Somewhat like VB- boulder problems.
The last little bit to the summit had some good exposure but the rock was really good for a change.
Don't plan your trip around it, but if you are bored and want to kill a couple of hours .....