Direct South Face
|3,579 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||Jim Barker, John Mokri, Bob Dominick & Norm Saude, 1/69, FFA: Chris Gonzalez, 5/75|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Jun 28, 2002|
BETA PHOTO: Moosedog Tower - SW Face
First off, excellent route!!! Starts out of the boulders at the base of the south face, in a prominent left-facing dihedral with an obvious roof capping it. Can't miss it.
Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral to the roof crack, set some gear and pull the crux move (burly 5.9) up and over the right corner of the roof. Easy climbing up the seriously featured face above to a bolt. Belay.
Pitch 2: Climb out of the alcove above the belay, taking the very obvious left-leaning crack (5.7). After angling up and left, the crack goes vertical. Continue up and over into a notch below the upper part of the tower. Belay (#2, #3 Camalots good here).
Pitch 3: A short face section (5.6) leads up and left to gain the bottom of an easy crack leading to the summit ridge. Once on the ridge, run the rope via the easiest route across to the anchor bolts at the back of Moosedog. Be sure to place gear to protect your second on this travese (sling liberally or you'll get killed by drag).
Single line rap off the back of the tower from bolts.
Standard rack including nuts and small to large cams
Another look at the roof. No matter how often I lo...
Direct South Face at the crux
Looking down the route at the belay above P2. Phot...
Alan Nelson onsighting the big roof of the Direct ...
Setting up the crux pro on Oct 31. photo by deutsc...
Surmounting the roof of P1. Photo by Tom Evans. ...
Climbers on Direct South Face. Photo credit: EJ
|Comments on Direct South Face
|By Phil Esra|
Mar 11, 2013
Moosedog is posted closed March 8 -- June 14(?) 2013 due to "recent wildlife activity"--presumably raptor nesting.
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 3, 2003
The entire route can be done in one 200' (60m) pitch, although rope drag can be unpleasant.
|By Mark J. Nelson|
Jan 9, 2003
Don't let the "burly 5.9" description intimidate you. The gear is good (for the crux sequence, anyway), and the move can be done comfortably even by those of us that don't work out. The crux is figuring out how to get your feet into position so you can push through instead of pull.
I fall in between one and three on the pitch count: it's nice to do one pitch to the single bolt/gear anchor, and a second to the summit.
|By Rick L. Jackson|
From: Thousand Oaks, Ca.
Mar 31, 2004
On Thanksgiving of 2003 I probably made one of the HARDEST falls off the roof, despite two previous successfull leads. Double - double length runners [to prevent rope drag]. By luck I didn't break the left arm, but just to let future climbers know... if the runners are double-double _had 4 pieces in the roof, each equalized by a separate DL runner, then both equalized by another_ that if you take the fall that only 1 piece is necessary. The impact will absorb allkinetic energy, and from there it's a sliding fall where 1 piece is sufficient! Best to drink beer afterwards and call it a weekend.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 19, 2004
This can be done in one pitch with one 70m rope, all the way to the rap chains on the back. Don't place much (any?) pro, maybe 3 or 4 pieces, and it will just reach by about 4 inches.
|By Ryan Avery|
Feb 26, 2005
The shallow flaring crack leading to the roof protects well with yellow and green aliens. I think there was a good thin nut in there as well.I thought this move was relatively easy for Josh 5.9 if you use the two pockets on the face for hand holds and use a little finesse. I would say that if you tried to use the roof crack only it would be a burly 5.9 move indeed.The upper sections are easy climbing but tricky pro. If you pass up some pro options you will be running it out for a ways on easy 5.7 territory.
|By Bo Johnston|
Feb 22, 2006
We climbed the route in one pitch on a 60M rope and used every inch. I didn't place pro on the last crack 'cause of drag.
Sep 22, 2006
|By Isaac T.|
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 26, 2006
Took a nice hunk of skin off my hand falling at the roof. Pretty sweet route though. The bolt at the top of the first pitch is still there, just a spinner though. Chains are at the top of the real summit after the scramble
|By Darren D.|
Apr 11, 2007
A star for each memorable move on this route (2).
|By Lluis Penalver-Aguila|
Mar 31, 2009
What a fun climb! Mellow start up the dihedral to the roof. Pitch 1 crux is the stem/heel hook at the roof onto the face. Pitch 2 crux is just above the belay station. A few unusual moves at the second crux but the holds and pro are solid. Only feels like a 5.9 at the two cruxes!
|By Carl A|
From: brooklyn, ny
Jan 21, 2010
nice long moderate for j tree but is a one (5.9) move wonder.
Apr 5, 2010
If you are nervous about leading through the roof, you can Free solo the route to the right and set up a top rope at the first belay station.