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Moosedog Tower
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Direct South Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Barker, John Mokri, Bob Dominick & Norm Saude, 1/69, FFA: Chris Gonzalez, 5/75
Page Views: 4,674
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 28, 2002

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Moosedog

Description 

First off, excellent route!!! Starts out of the boulders at the base of the south face, in a prominent left-facing dihedral with an obvious roof capping it. Can't miss it.

Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral to the roof crack, set some gear and pull the crux move (burly 5.9) up and over the right corner of the roof. Easy climbing up the seriously featured face above to a bolt. Belay.

Pitch 2: Climb out of the alcove above the belay, taking the very obvious left-leaning crack (5.7). After angling up and left, the crack goes vertical. Continue up and over into a notch below the upper part of the tower. Belay (#2, #3 Camalots good here).

Pitch 3: A short face section (5.6) leads up and left to gain the bottom of an easy crack leading to the summit ridge. Once on the ridge, run the rope via the easiest route across to the anchor bolts at the back of Moosedog. Be sure to place gear to protect your second on this travese (sling liberally or you'll get killed by drag).

Single line rap off the back of the tower from bolts.

Protection 

Standard rack including nuts and small to large cams


Photos of Direct South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on Direct South Face. Photo credit: EJ
Climbers on Direct South Face. Photo credit: EJ
Another look at the roof. No matter how often I look, it's still a tough little move.
Another look at the roof. No matter how often I lo...
Setting up the crux pro on Oct 31. photo by deutschman.
Setting up the crux pro on Oct 31. photo by deutsc...
Moosedog Tower - SW Face
BETA PHOTO: Moosedog Tower - SW Face
Alan Nelson onsighting the big roof of the Direct So Face in tennis shoes, Feb 1978. Unknown photographer, Original submission source: Pywiak (rc.com)
Alan Nelson onsighting the big roof of the Direct ...
Direct South Face at the crux
Direct South Face at the crux
Surmounting the roof of P1.  Photo by Tom Evans.  <a href='http://www.elcap-pics.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >elcap-pics.com</a>
Surmounting the roof of P1. Photo by Tom Evans. ...
Looking down the route at the belay above P2. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/05.
Looking down the route at the belay above P2. Phot...

Comments on Direct South Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 11, 2013
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 3, 2003

The entire route can be done in one 200' (60m) pitch, although rope drag can be unpleasant.
By Mark J. Nelson
Jan 9, 2003

Don't let the "burly 5.9" description intimidate you. The gear is good (for the crux sequence, anyway), and the move can be done comfortably even by those of us that don't work out. The crux is figuring out how to get your feet into position so you can push through instead of pull.

I fall in between one and three on the pitch count: it's nice to do one pitch to the single bolt/gear anchor, and a second to the summit.
By Rick L. Jackson
From: Thousand Oaks, Ca.
Mar 31, 2004

On Thanksgiving of 2003 I probably made one of the HARDEST falls off the roof, despite two previous successfull leads. Double - double length runners [to prevent rope drag]. By luck I didn't break the left arm, but just to let future climbers know... if the runners are double-double _had 4 pieces in the roof, each equalized by a separate DL runner, then both equalized by another_ that if you take the fall that only 1 piece is necessary. The impact will absorb allkinetic energy, and from there it's a sliding fall where 1 piece is sufficient! Best to drink beer afterwards and call it a weekend.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 19, 2004

This can be done in one pitch with one 70m rope, all the way to the rap chains on the back. Don't place much (any?) pro, maybe 3 or 4 pieces, and it will just reach by about 4 inches.
By Ryan Avery
Feb 26, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The shallow flaring crack leading to the roof protects well with yellow and green aliens. I think there was a good thin nut in there as well.I thought this move was relatively easy for Josh 5.9 if you use the two pockets on the face for hand holds and use a little finesse. I would say that if you tried to use the roof crack only it would be a burly 5.9 move indeed.The upper sections are easy climbing but tricky pro. If you pass up some pro options you will be running it out for a ways on easy 5.7 territory.
By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

We climbed the route in one pitch on a 60M rope and used every inch. I didn't place pro on the last crack 'cause of drag.
By Blitzo
Sep 22, 2006

Cool route!
By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Dec 26, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Took a nice hunk of skin off my hand falling at the roof. Pretty sweet route though. The bolt at the top of the first pitch is still there, just a spinner though. Chains are at the top of the real summit after the scramble
By Darren D.
Apr 11, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A star for each memorable move on this route (2).
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Mar 31, 2009

What a fun climb! Mellow start up the dihedral to the roof. Pitch 1 crux is the stem/heel hook at the roof onto the face. Pitch 2 crux is just above the belay station. A few unusual moves at the second crux but the holds and pro are solid. Only feels like a 5.9 at the two cruxes!
By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
Jan 21, 2010

nice long moderate for j tree but is a one (5.9) move wonder.
By Tozankyaku
Apr 5, 2010

If you are nervous about leading through the roof, you can Free solo the route to the right and set up a top rope at the first belay station.
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Jun 2, 2013

A tad harder if you jam the roof direct (contrived variation).
By Lisa J
Dec 11, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really nice route with good rock. The roof is a fun challenge. Beautiful views at the summit and easy rappel down. Bring a camera!
View at the summit
View at the summit