Direct South Face 

Moosedog is posted closed March 8 -- June 14(?) 2013 due to "recent wildlife activity"--presumably raptor nesting.

The entire route can be done in one 200' (60m) pitch, although rope drag can be unpleasant.

Don't let the "burly 5.9" description intimidate you. The gear is good (for the crux sequence, anyway), and the move can be done comfortably even by those of us that don't work out. The crux is figuring out how to get your feet into position so you can push through instead of pull.

I fall in between one and three on the pitch count: it's nice to do one pitch to the single bolt/gear anchor, and a second to the summit.

On Thanksgiving of 2003 I probably made one of the HARDEST falls off the roof, despite two previous successfull leads. Double - double length runners [to prevent rope drag]. By luck I didn't break the left arm, but just to let future climbers know... if the runners are double-double _had 4 pieces in the roof, each equalized by a separate DL runner, then both equalized by another_ that if you take the fall that only 1 piece is necessary. The impact will absorb allkinetic energy, and from there it's a sliding fall where 1 piece is sufficient! Best to drink beer afterwards and call it a weekend.

This can be done in one pitch with one 70m rope, all the way to the rap chains on the back. Don't place much (any?) pro, maybe 3 or 4 pieces, and it will just reach by about 4 inches.

The shallow flaring crack leading to the roof protects well with yellow and green aliens. I think there was a good thin nut in there as well.I thought this move was relatively easy for Josh 5.9 if you use the two pockets on the face for hand holds and use a little finesse. I would say that if you tried to use the roof crack only it would be a burly 5.9 move indeed.The upper sections are easy climbing but tricky pro. If you pass up some pro options you will be running it out for a ways on easy 5.7 territory.

We climbed the route in one pitch on a 60M rope and used every inch. I didn't place pro on the last crack 'cause of drag.

Cool route!

Took a nice hunk of skin off my hand falling at the roof. Pretty sweet route though. The bolt at the top of the first pitch is still there, just a spinner though. Chains are at the top of the real summit after the scramble

A star for each memorable move on this route (2).

What a fun climb! Mellow start up the dihedral to the roof. Pitch 1 crux is the stem/heel hook at the roof onto the face. Pitch 2 crux is just above the belay station. A few unusual moves at the second crux but the holds and pro are solid. Only feels like a 5.9 at the two cruxes!

nice long moderate for j tree but is a one (5.9) move wonder.

If you are nervous about leading through the roof, you can Free solo the route to the right and set up a top rope at the first belay station.