Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Select Route:
2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right 
D.A.'s Route 
Dialysis Bag 
Direct North Face 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] 
Diversion 
East Bench Dihedral 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) 
First Pinnacle SE Face 
Inset, The 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) 
Macropsychotic 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) 
Northeast Chimney 
Now and Zen 
Outside East Face 
P.S. I'm Blonde 
Pizza Pie Crack 
Red Gully, The 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) 
Second Pinnacle East Face 
Second Pinnacle South Face 
Shortcut 
Siberian North Face 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 
Standard Inside East Face 
T-Zero West Face 
Tyrolean Traverse 
West Bench Dihedral 
West Face (of T-Zero) 

Direct North Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'
FA: Unknown to me
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 30, 2004
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A strange and interesting climb, but not of great quality. The rock leaves something to be desired here, and so does the pro- or lack of it. This route is a tremendous sandbag at the formerly published 5.7 grade.

    Both I and my partner laughed our butts off when we discovered that the weird, blind crux hold was in fact, a "piece of shit" as we passed it. Petrified or not, it was amusing to be dangling your weight from a polished pile of bird-crap.

    Approach Via the 'express' trail to the North side of the First Pinnacle. Perhaps 8 meters to the right of the obvious "NE Chimney" route at the left edge of the !st Pinnacle, a strange line of features and pockets climbs up for 8 meters, bumps left and up (crux, decent pro = large cam in a pocket) past the 'pile' hold, and up and right, runout in odd grooves and face moves. Once on a good ledge, bump left and continue up to the summit on easier terrain, with some pro. You will encounter 2 modern bolts to belay on, just west of the true summit.

    You can TR this with a top belay, or *perhaps* with a 70m rope.

    Rap to the East from an old eye bolt with a 60m rope. (50 PROBABLY OK, have not tried it), or scramble off West and North.


    Protection 

    A standard set of cams and nuts + some 2' slings to avoid drag. A few large pieces might be good, or some tied-off holes- large tricams might protect some funky pockets where I failed to get anything at all. NOT a good lead at your limit.



    Comments on Direct North Face Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 22, 2008

    I climbed this today, and was slightly repulsed and amused at grasping at a pile of bird crap for a hold. It was very solid, keep in mind. (Interesting question: what if an animal alters a climb in this way?). I went to the top and set up a TR by scrambling some fourth class terrain to the top and using about 20 foot runners. It worked well. I had a 60 meter rope and found that it was plenty long enough to reach the ground on the north side (though just barely if attached by single-length runners to the two hanger-bolts. Fun crux move followed by easy terrain.