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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Select Route:
2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 
D.A.'s Route T 
Dialysis Bag T 
Direct North Face T,TR 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  T 
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 
Diversion T 
East Bench Dihedral T 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) T,TR 
First Pinnacle SE Face T 
Inset, The T 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 
Macropsychotic T 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Northeast Chimney T 
Now and Zen T,TR 
Outside East Face T 
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 
Pizza Pie Crack T 
Red Gully, The T,TR 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 
Second Pinnacle East Face T 
Second Pinnacle South Face T 
Shortcut T 
Siberian North Face T,S 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) T 
Standard Inside East Face T 
T-Zero West Face T 
Tyrolean Traverse TR 
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 

Direct North Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown to me
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 30, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A strange and interesting climb, but not of great quality. The rock leaves something to be desired here, and so does the pro- or lack of it. This route is a tremendous sandbag at the formerly published 5.7 grade.

    Both I and my partner laughed our butts off when we discovered that the weird, blind crux hold was in fact, a "piece of shit" as we passed it. Petrified or not, it was amusing to be dangling your weight from a polished pile of bird-crap.

    Approach Via the 'express' trail to the North side of the First Pinnacle. Perhaps 8 meters to the right of the obvious "NE Chimney" route at the left edge of the !st Pinnacle, a strange line of features and pockets climbs up for 8 meters, bumps left and up (crux, decent pro = large cam in a pocket) past the 'pile' hold, and up and right, runout in odd grooves and face moves. Once on a good ledge, bump left and continue up to the summit on easier terrain, with some pro. You will encounter 2 modern bolts to belay on, just west of the true summit.

    You can TR this with a top belay, or *perhaps* with a 70m rope.

    Rap to the East from an old eye bolt with a 60m rope. (50 PROBABLY OK, have not tried it), or scramble off West and North.

    Protection 

    A standard set of cams and nuts + some 2' slings to avoid drag. A few large pieces might be good, or some tied-off holes- large tricams might protect some funky pockets where I failed to get anything at all. NOT a good lead at your limit.


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    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 22, 2008

    I climbed this today, and was slightly repulsed and amused at grasping at a pile of bird crap for a hold. It was very solid, keep in mind. (Interesting question: what if an animal alters a climb in this way?). I went to the top and set up a TR by scrambling some fourth class terrain to the top and using about 20 foot runners. It worked well. I had a 60 meter rope and found that it was plenty long enough to reach the ground on the north side (though just barely if attached by single-length runners to the two hanger-bolts. Fun crux move followed by easy terrain.