Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Merriam Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Direct North Buttress T 
Dr. Bear Love Project T 
Flying Buttress, The T 
Foundation Crack, The T 
Gargoyle T 
Triple Cracks Project T 

Direct North Buttress 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Vern Clevenger/Bob Harrington
Page Views: 7,988
Submitted By: Old Skool on May 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [3 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Route.

WHITNEY PORTAL ROAD CONSTRUCTION MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The entire route entails some challenging but very fun diverse climbing. The crux 10.b lies on the Seventh pitch. It is definitely a Classic and must DO!

Total of seven technical Pitches with an additional 300' feet of Class 3ish to reach the Summit proper.

Approach: Scramble up the right side of the pedestal (3rd class) to the bottom of the route.

P1(5.9, ~100'): Climb ~30 feet of blocky 5.6, then head up the crack just left of the arete. Belay at the "ear".

P2(5.10a, ~100'): Climb the crack straight above the "ear". Fun face moves to link crack systems. Belay at ledge.

P3(5.9, ~100'): Continue up, traversing left on the obvious sloping ledge below the orange lichen-covered bulge. Belay at the base of the "Triple Cracks".

P4(5.9, ~120'): Climb the "Triple Cracks". This seemed like the physical crux of the route. Stance belay just above the obvious alcove. The rock below the alcove is somewhat loose, there is a thin crack just above the alcove that's solid.

P5(5.8, ~100'): Take the center of 3 cracks above the alcove. The left one looks like a wide lieback, and the right one is a splitter (but grainy) thin crack. The one in the middle takes the path of least resistance. After ~50', head left up a couple of rampy lieback sections (not the splitter hand crack directly above). Belay at a large ledge below a right-facing corner.

P6(5.10b, ~120'): Climb the crux dihedral. Stiff off the bat, then eases up. Below the smaller summit block, head left up an offwidth/chimney/stem with a large fixed cam in it. Belay at large ledge.

P7(5.7, ~50'): Head up/right through a small notch, then follow the right-slanting crack system on a slab below/around the larger summit block (the huge one that's obvious from the approach). Belay on another large ledge.

You're now on the summit ridge (~500'). The climbing along the ridge is inobvious, and is definitely not 3rd class, more like mixed 4th/5th class. Lots of gendarmes and large pillars to navigate. We ended up following the ridge proper for ~200', downclimbing to the right of the ridge, then heading straight up through blocky 5.6ish climbing to the summit plateau.

Location 

Descend Class 2 via the West Ridge to the Col between Merriam and Royce. Then proceed down to Camp. There may be a snowfield below the col, depending on time of year.

Protection 

This is a Backcountry Trad route with ZERO fixed gear.

Gear List:
2ea MET TCU's (#1-3)
2ea MET FCU's (#4-8)
2ea WC Flexi #4 Friend
1 Set Of Stoppers
10 Alpine Slings(Draws) w/Biner's
10 Spare Biner's
2 60m Double's


Photos of Direct North Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: fun ridge climbing
fun ridge climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: The TOPO.
BETA PHOTO: The TOPO.
Rock Climbing Photo: Merriam Peak's North Buttress at sunset
Merriam Peak's North Buttress at sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: The Triple Crack Pitch (5).
The Triple Crack Pitch (5).
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper North Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Upper North Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Orozco following the exceptional "Tripl...
Chris Orozco following the exceptional "Tripl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Lella starting the crux hand crack.  The qua...
Bruce Lella starting the crux hand crack. The qua...
Rock Climbing Photo: sweet
sweet
Rock Climbing Photo: Kelvin near the top of Pitch 6
Kelvin near the top of Pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset on the DNB!
Sunset on the DNB!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the summit ridge toward the North But...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the summit ridge toward the North But...
Rock Climbing Photo: Part of the class 3-4 summit ridge.
BETA PHOTO: Part of the class 3-4 summit ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from about halfway through the route....
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from about halfway through the route....
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up to really fun crack system. About 5.9.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up to really fun crack system. About 5.9.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the start.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: nice
nice
Rock Climbing Photo: Merriam's North Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Merriam's North Buttress

Comments on Direct North Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2016
By MikeMcD
Jul 3, 2016

CONDITION REPORT 
Climbed the route on 1 July. A pretty major rockfall occurred just as we finished the 3rd pitch, coming from the huge gully to the right of the buttress and sweeping over the approach and the first pitch. If anyone had been on the upper approach, the 3rd class, or the 1st pitch, they'd likely be dead. The route is awesome, but don't linger in the area that's exposed to rockfall from that gully!
By Kevin Ross
Aug 5, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CONDITION REPORT 
Climbed the route right after @MikeMcD (July 3rd, might have met in the trailhead parking lot?). The rockfall was definitely big, but it doesn't appear to have had much of an impact on the first pitch. It is still climbable (the P1 climbing may be altered a bit due to rockfall as this was my first time on the route, but things were generally solid and climbable). But fully agree with @MikeMcD, don't dilly dally at the base of the route, things still seemed a bit active climber's right of the buttress.

P.S. the final ridge scramble is definitely heads up! Don't take it lightly.
By Dustysdawg
Jul 30, 2009

That is my beta/topo photo that I put up on Summitpost. Glad to see it is getting used, because it took me a while to make it.
I thought the route was solid, and does not deserve a PG13. There is a little bit of grainyness because it doesn't get climbed that often, but there is very little loose rock. Pretty standard for Sierra granite.
The great thing about this climb is that it is all climbing. There is very little scrambling or easy 5th class.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Aug 30, 2009

Thanks for posting! I have added Lurker's pitch-by-pitch into the main route description.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This route is AWESOME! I believe it would be just as poplar as the Third Pillar of Dana if not for the looooooong approach. A wee bit more moderate than Third Pillar too. My main complaint was that it was too short. I could have used a few more pitches. Very fun.
By Dustin Stephens
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Great route! Especially as you get higher up. First couple pitches are somewhat dangerous and loose. Approach is burly, so be in the mood for a backpacking trip. Mosquitoes can be pretty heinous in mid-summer up until Royce Lake.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jun 20, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Superb route up a very scenic peak.

Several pitches can be linked. Linked 2 and 3 together, finishing the traverse left to the nice belay below the triple crack corner pitch.
I also climbed pitch 5 and 6 together by going straight up the plumb line of cracks instead of traversing right. Not sure why the topo says "no" as if you will end up in Oz, it links right into the nice belay below the crux pitch. It may look like there are loose blocks on this pitch but they seemed very solid to me, took gear well and never exceeded 5.9. There were a few loose hand-sized rocks just sitting in the crack, as though no-one ever went this way, but we tossed most or all of these off the route.

At the top of the route, there are 2 sections of huge summit blocks to negotiate. The first you take left, as the topo says, but the second is funky and goes right around it to the start of summit ridge traverse.

Also, the ridge traverse at the top is more like 1000', not 300', but its all good.
By Lurker
Administrator
From: Westwood
Jun 22, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Absolutely stellar route. Looks and climbs similar to Third Pillar of Dana, but with a bit more commitment and logistical challenge. Unsung classic, although apparently it's in the new Supertopo book, so it will probably become a trade route. I feel that it deserves a better description than given; the topo posted on this site seemed fairly accurate however. Pitch lengths below are loose estimates. There are multiple options on most pitches (this is the High Sierra of course); this just seemed like the most well-traveled route.

Approach: Scramble up the right side of the pedestal (3rd class) to the bottom of the route.

P1(5.9, ~100'): Climb ~30 feet of blocky 5.6, then head up the crack just left of the arete. Belay at the "ear".

P2(5.10a, ~100'): Climb the crack straight above the "ear". Fun face moves to link crack systems. Belay at ledge.

P3(5.9, ~100'): Continue up, traversing left on the obvious sloping ledge below the orange lichen-covered bulge. Belay at the base of the "Triple Cracks".

P4(5.9, ~120'): Climb the "Triple Cracks". This seemed like the physical crux of the route. Stance belay just above the obvious alcove. The rock below the alcove is somewhat loose, there is a thin crack just above the alcove that's solid.

P5(5.8, ~100'): Take the center of 3 cracks above the alcove. The left one looks like a wide lieback, and the right one is a splitter (but grainy) thin crack. The one in the middle takes the path of least resistance. After ~50', head left up a couple of rampy lieback sections (not the splitter hand crack directly above). Belay at a large ledge below a right-facing corner.

P6(5.10b, ~120'): Climb the crux dihedral. Stiff off the bat, then eases up. Below the smaller summit block, head left up an offwidth/chimney/stem with a large fixed cam in it. Belay at large ledge.

P7(5.7, ~50'): Head up/right through a small notch, then follow the right-slanting crack system on a slab below/around the larger summit block (the huge one that's obvious from the approach). Belay on another large ledge.

You're now on the summit ridge (~500'). The climbing along the ridge is inobvious, and is definitely not 3rd class, more like mixed 4th/5th class. Lots of gendarmes and large pillars to navigate. We ended up following the ridge proper for ~200', downclimbing to the right of the ridge, then heading straight up through blocky 5.6ish climbing to the summit plateau.

Descent: Down the 2nd class west ridge to the col between Merriam and Royce peaks. There may be a snowfield below the col, depending on time of year.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 9, 2014

Great route. I found the crux pitch easy for .10b and would rate it at hard 5.9 or 5.10a at most. Whatever the grade this was a really fun pitch.

On the second pitch just above the face moves there is hanging block at the point where you change from a right-facing corner to a left facing corner. This section is devoid of holds and so it is clear that everyone pulls on this block. My concern was that this block looked totally detached and if it decides to release you and your belayer could be at significant risk. Be careful.
By Richard Shore
Jul 9, 2014

Agreed that the supposed "crux" pitch was quite tame. Steep but perfect hands for about 10' until you can stem out onto the other crack. I don't remember the loose block Karsten speaks of, but thought that changing corners pitch 2 was probably the crux of the route (10a). The Triple Cracks is definetely the highlight of the route, and quite sustained.
By Xocomil
From: South Lake Tahoe
Apr 24, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I think the route description should be updated - there is more like 800 feet of 4th-5th class climbing with significant exposure along the ridge.

All in all, the climb is magnificent and far superior to third pillar.
By Justin S
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2016

You could likely link the first 6 pitches into 3 with a 70. We linked 1&2 and then tried to link 3&4, but ended up belaying 25 ft below the alcove on the right hand side of crack systems, but in retrospect think we could have just made it with the 70.

On the traverse (pitch 3), we ended up having to down climb to make it into the triple crack system.

If you're simuling the ridge, do so with a shortened rope. The climbing is exposed with some dangerous fall potential, being able to communicate with your partner is quite helpful. Be prepared for real climbing, especially after a traverse just below the ridge that leads to an option of 3 separate cracks.

We brought RPs and C3's and I don't think we placed them.
By DennisL
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 13, 2016

SuperClassic! The route is in fine condition after some rockfall at the beginning of this month (August 2016), but you can see on the approach how far the shrapnel flew!

We brought a BD #4 but never placed it for lead protection - save yourself on the hike and leave it at home unless this route is at your limit and you need to sew it up! The "crux" section of p6 where you might place it is very short and easier than sections on earlier pitches.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!