Direct North Buttress 5.10b PG13
| 2,824 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Vern Clevenger/Bob Harrington |
| Submitted By: | Old Skool on May 26, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Route.
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Description The entire route entails some challenging but very fun diverse climbing. The crux 10.b lies on the Seventh pitch. It is definitely a Classic and must DO!
Total of seven technical Pitches with an additional 300' feet of Class 3ish to reach the Summit proper.
Location Descend Class 2 via the West Ridge to the Col between Merriam and Royce. Then proceed down to Camp.
Protection This is a Backcountry Trad route with ZERO fixed gear.
Gear List:
2ea MET TCU's (#1-3)
2ea MET FCU's (#4-8)
2ea WC Flexi #4 Friend
1 Set Of Stoppers
10 Alpine Slings(Draws) w/Biner's
10 Spare Biner's
2 60m Double's
BETA PHOTO: The TOPO.
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Sunset on the DNB!
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The Triple Crack Pitch (5).
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nice
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sweet
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fun ridge climbing
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Bruce Lella starting the crux hand crack. The qua...
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BETA PHOTO: Merriam's North Buttress
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BETA PHOTO: Upper North Buttress
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the start.
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up to really fun crack system. About 5.9.
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down from about halfway through the route....
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BETA PHOTO: Part of the class 3-4 summit ridge.
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down the summit ridge toward the North But...
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| Comments on Direct North Buttress |
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By Dustysdawg
Jul 30, 2009
| That is my beta/topo photo that I put up on Summitpost. Glad to see it is getting used, because it took me a while to make it.
I thought the route was solid, and does not deserve a PG13. There is a little bit of grainyness because it doesn't get climbed that often, but there is very little loose rock. Pretty standard for Sierra granite.
The great thing about this climb is that it is all climbing. There is very little scrambling or easy 5th class. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 30, 2009
| Thanks for posting! |
By Some Random Guy
From: San Francisco, CA
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.10b PG13
| This route is AWESOME! I believe it would be just as poplar as the Third Pillar of Dana if not for the looooooong approach. A wee bit more moderate than Third Pillar too. My main complaint was that it was too short. I could have used a few more pitches. Very fun. |
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