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 ADVANCED
Turkey Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Cramps T 
Dash and Thrangle T 
Direct Hit T 
Eastern Front, The T 
Fiend, The T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Glen's Pancake T,TR 
Gobbler's Grunt T 
Great White Crime T 
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 
Jump Start T 
Nightime Madness T 
Rastafarian T 
Route 902 T 
Satyr's Asshole T 
Second Coming T 
Southern Comfort T 
Stewart's Crack T 
Straw Turkey T 
Tofonareeker T 
Tryptophane T 
Turkey Shoot T 
Vanishing Point T 
Wild Fire T 

Direct Hit 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 268
Submitted By: rob bauer on Sep 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: This route starts in the shade at the lower left a...

Description 

This is not my route, but we climbed it yesterday, and it ought to be represented here. It's thin, steep, and exposed, connecting thin cracks with devious face climbing. There is pro, perhaps only PG-13 with small cams and your comfort level. The crux(es) may be leaving the first crack and definitely leaving the last one. If the 2nd pitch of Gobbler's Grunt was fun, this might be for you. Brilliant!


Location 

This is the leftmost route on the face, left of Southern Comfort, in the corridor between the South Face and the Leftovers. The initial crack starts up left of the big rock/flake leaning against the South Face before you get to the big tree.


Protection 

RPs, nuts up to about BD #8, and I used 2 x #0.3s, 1 x #0.4, 1 x #0.5 Camalots and a blue (?) Alien [2 would've been great] with a #0.75 & #1 Camalot for the anchor at a broken ledge. We then wandered up a bit and about 35' left to a rap anchor in some tied-off rocks. (Yeah, we skipped the 2nd pitch.) A 60m rope would be plenty for that rap.



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