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Direct Direct 

5.6 PG13

   
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 330 feet, Grade II
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
FA: C. Lalibert.
Submitted By: elvador on Sep 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Breaking pitch 2 in 2 is always fun!

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Description 

1st Pitch: Ascends the right side of the wall. Expect a long but easy run-out halfway up. Start by climbing the small chimeney to the fisrt ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Then head on the right side of the face passing two fixed pins.

2nd Pitch: Follows the most direct line up the wall. Start by going up the obvious ramp system to the small roof. Then straight up to the left facing corner. Once in the left facing corner, exit right to a small ledge with a fixed pin. Make a mantleshelf move (5.6 crux) to exit straight up.
This pitch can be broken in two to make the climb more enjoyable (communication, rope drag...)


Location 

Follow the trail at the bottom that leads to the summit of the "pierrier" (rockfalls)... Once at the summit of the trail, Direct-Direct starts there! (45 min. from the parking)


Protection 

Good pro, nut, tricams and friends (max size = 2)



Photos of Direct Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 1

BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1

The first pitch start

BETA PHOTO: The first pitch start

Pitch  1 route

BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 route

Start of pitch 2

BETA PHOTO: Start of pitch 2

Crux pitch 2

BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch 2