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Direct Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 330', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: C. Lalibert.
Page Views: 532
Submitted By: elvador on Sep 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Breaking pitch 2 in 2 is always fun!

Description 

1st Pitch: Ascends the right side of the wall. Expect a long but easy run-out halfway up. Start by climbing the small chimeney to the fisrt ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Then head on the right side of the face passing two fixed pins.

2nd Pitch: Follows the most direct line up the wall. Start by going up the obvious ramp system to the small roof. Then straight up to the left facing corner. Once in the left facing corner, exit right to a small ledge with a fixed pin. Make a mantleshelf move (5.6 crux) to exit straight up.
This pitch can be broken in two to make the climb more enjoyable (communication, rope drag...)

Location 

Follow the trail at the bottom that leads to the summit of the "pierrier" (rockfalls)... Once at the summit of the trail, Direct-Direct starts there! (45 min. from the parking)

Protection 

Good pro, nut, tricams and friends (max size = 2)


Photos of Direct Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Start of pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Start of pitch 2
Pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1
Pitch  1 route
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 route
The first pitch start
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch start
Crux pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch 2

Comments on Direct Direct Add Comment
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By Francis Kerdevez
From: Montreal
Jul 15, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

According to the printed guide, this is a 4 pitch climb but you can link pitch 1-2 and 3-4. You will need 2 ropes to rap down or use the trails to walk down.

P1: 5.3/5.4(PG)
P2: 5.5/5.6-(R ...maybe X)
P3+4: 5.6G (in the guide book there's a trad belay anchor...just link the 2 pitches. The end of P4 is bolted)

About P2: I recommend setting a belay at the first bolts you'll encounter to reduce drag to make things easier because the second pitch is about 5.5/5.6- R...maybe even X. There's a lot of loose flakes/small holds and even several loose blocks of rock during the runout. I managed to place a bomber Camalot #2 just before the half. A fall during the last 3/4 of the pitch would have horrible consequences, otherwise this pitch is a nice mental challenge and very rewarding in the end.

For the grade you get a lot of exposure and an excellent view.
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