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Direct Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 330', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: C. Lalibert.
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: Luc on Sep 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Breaking pitch 2 in 2 is always fun!

This cliffs is insured by the FQME MORE INFO >>>

Description 

1st Pitch: Ascends the right side of the wall. Expect a long but easy run-out halfway up. Start by climbing the small chimeney to the fisrt ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Then head on the right side of the face passing two fixed pins.

2nd Pitch: Follows the most direct line up the wall. Start by going up the obvious ramp system to the small roof. Then straight up to the left facing corner. Once in the left facing corner, exit right to a small ledge with a fixed pin. Make a mantleshelf move (5.6 crux) to exit straight up.
This pitch can be broken in two to make the climb more enjoyable (communication, rope drag...)

Originally submitted by elvador

Location 

Follow the trail at the base of the cliff, when the wall rises after a large flat area, keep following the cliff up the boulder field until you reach a platform at the base of the large left facing corner.
45 minute hike from the parking lot.
Two (2) 50-60m rappels from the top anchor or head up the last overlap (left and up)& hike back down trail #1.

Suivez le sentier de grimpe qui longe le bas de la paroi, suivez le mur lorsqu'il se met a monter (après un grand espace plat) jusqu'au haut du pierrier dans le grand dièdre faisant face a gauche.
45 minutes de marche a partir du stationnement.
Deux (2) rappels de 50-60m a partir du dernier relais aussi-non montez le dernier sursaut (passage un peu a gauche du relais) pour rejoindre le sentier #1 qui redescend la montagne.

Protection 

Double rack BD #0.5 - #2 with a couple smaller pieces, nuts! tri-cams could be useful as well.
Belays are bolted, intermediate belay on P2 has two (2) pitons but back them up.
Double 60m if you want to rap back down.

Rack double BD #0.5 - #2 avec une couple de petit morceaux, bicoins et des tri-cams peuvent êtres utile.
Les relais sont sur des plaquettes et l’intermédiaire sur la deuxième longueur a deux (2) pitons plus pro naturelle.
Cordes double 60m si vous voulez descendre en rappel.


Photos of Direct Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Start of pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch  1 route
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 route
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch start
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch start
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch 2

Comments on Direct Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Francis Kerdevez
From: Montreal
Jul 15, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

According to the printed guide, this is a 4 pitch climb but you can link pitch 1-2 and 3-4. You will need 2 ropes to rap down or use the trails to walk down.

P1: 5.3/5.4(PG)
P2: 5.5/5.6-(R ...maybe X)
P3+4: 5.6G (in the guide book there's a trad belay anchor...just link the 2 pitches. The end of P4 is bolted)

About P2: I recommend setting a belay at the first bolts you'll encounter to reduce drag to make things easier because the second pitch is about 5.5/5.6- R...maybe even X. There's a lot of loose flakes/small holds and even several loose blocks of rock during the runout. I managed to place a bomber Camalot #2 just before the half. A fall during the last 3/4 of the pitch would have horrible consequences, otherwise this pitch is a nice mental challenge and very rewarding in the end.

For the grade you get a lot of exposure and an excellent view.
By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal, Quebec
Apr 25, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Easily done in two(2) long pitches:
First pitch 5.6PG13-5.7R:
The first section to the big ledge (with a couple glue-ins) isn't much of a pitch but setting runners on it will help higher up (also have your belayer feed out rope because it starts weighing a lot up there).
The vertical wall becomes the mental crux of the route, take it in the dead-center (pun intended) and it becomes R/X, spot a small vertical crack 2m below the horizontal with the pin in it? That vertical crack is a loose block (hairline crack) I pulled to test a cam and it flexes. reach the horizontal and protect it or clip the pin on its right.
The right side of the wall has more holds and apparently pro.

Second pitch 5.7:
If the first roof seems too intimidating, you can always traverse left before the cedar bush, following Directissime until you can return in the corner on your right and pull over the second small roof unto the arete (amazing exposure on bomber holds!). Mantle unto the small ledge with two pins (optional belay), clip a double runner and keep heading up to the glue-ins on top (yell at the wall on your right to communicate with your second!).
If you're dealing with a weaker second or have issues communicating, I strongly suggest using that intermediate belay.

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