|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, Grade IV|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||FFA: Reid Dowdle, Paul Potters, Marc Deforeaux, 1986|
|Submitted By:||Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007|
|Comments on Direct Beckey||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: SL UT
Nov 27, 2007
|Reid Dowdle rated this 5.11, that suggests 11b/c. To call it 11a would be a stout sandbag. Especially for the 11a leader. However, the crux can easily be surmounted by pulling on gear (french free Hoh,hoh,hoh!)|
Sep 16, 2008
|but after the first pitch crux move, nothing but classic 5.10 all the way! my favorite route at the perch!|
By Monica Jones
Aug 19, 2010
|We did the first three pitches of the Direct into the 11+ corner on the Original Beckey and then rapped off. The corner is amazing and seemed easier than the grade suggests because there's lots of fixed gear and pins. Beautiful full on stembox the whole pitch, you don't even really touch the crack except for a few times. One of the coolest pitches of climbing I've ever done.|
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|Topo is a bit vague about the top pitches approaching the summit. When in doubt, head right.|
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|IN your face solid 5.10 the entire way with a pretty hard start pitch. The step over the first roof was balancy and hard. The rest of the route was classic old school 5.10 crack.|
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 13, 2011
|Just climbed this two weeks ago. Lead every pitch. Incredible! After the first pitch (11b, IMO), the nest 6 are solid & sustained 10 all the way. Only a few 9 moves here and there.|
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 25, 2012
Brilliant climbing. A few notes on each pitch:
1-Hard 11. Pull the roof and traverse to ledge is balancey and strenuous. Get stoked or yard.
2-fun liebacking up to short wide section. semi crappy belay
3-traverse right. hard thin moves above small nuts. cruxy. fun .5 jam crack to fat ledge.
4-wedged blocks. ridiculous climbing, some loose. take care not to kill your belayer. short ow section. #4 camalot handy but not necessary
5-great fingers section to lieback to chimney groove thing. longest pitch, super fun
6-best pitch of climb. chimney to crazy stems to roof jug pull on right. be ready for to clip piton over roof. short pitch
7-hard lieback straight up to fun double crack fingers and final roof pull to fat ledges.
Get on this one. You'll never do as many quality 5.10 pitches in a row outside serenity/sons
By Phil Esra
Sep 6, 2012
(If anyone finds a pair of Scarpa Technos, size 39.5, at the top, I wouldn't mind getting them back--sorry for the litter. Late August 2012.)
"In your face" indeed! Quite sustained. I found the fingers on p2 to be quite hard -- 11- in my book.
Way more classic, and much harder, than Fine Line, in my opinion.
Apparently most people traverse out right from the Beckey tree? We followed the topo straight up; if you do it this way, when in doubt, you should often trend left-ish. For the final pitch, you want the *second* gully/weakness on the left past the big chossy block at the base of the final headwall.
Lots of small to tiny gear. A single #2, and an optional single #3, should be plenty for most parties.
Jul 26, 2013
We never found the loose flake described on the topo for pitch 2.
Stellar Line, better than the fine line.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
|Spooky blocks which we avoided by going up the beautiful original Beckey corner with some aid.|