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Direct Beckey Route on the E Perch
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Oct 11, 2012
Why I do it...
Looking for beta, impressions, pitch by pitch memories. Ever climbed it? kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Joined Apr 21, 2008
49 points
Oct 11, 2012
Super route, one of the best "alpine" rock routes I've done, generally great rock quality. Would be hard to get lost, as its a fairly continuous crack system. First 4 pitches are fairly continuous but it never really drops off that much. At the top of the 9th or 10th you pass through the only sketch rock on the route as you pass through some kind of roof band. Above this, you have a final headwall to climb, which is a bit less obvious, unless newer topos describe it. We went generally right, long pitch, runout, so-so belay.


Looking up the second pitch
Looking up the second pitch



Start of either the 2nd or 3rd
Start of either the 2nd or 3rd



7th or 8th pitch, this one has a 5.10 roof on it I...
7th or 8th pitch, this one has a 5.10 roof on it I believe



The upper headwall I described
The upper headwall I described
ddriver
From SLC
Joined Jul 30, 2007
293 points
Oct 11, 2012
It's fun, fun, fun. One of my favorite rock climbs. If you can do the first pitch, you have the rest of the route in the bag. The first seven pitches or so are sustained, but wonderfully solid and secure.

I'll try to post some photos when I get to a regular computer.
Dobson
From Butte, MT
Joined Oct 20, 2011
187 points
Oct 11, 2012
The roof move on pitch 6? was my favorite move on the route. Pitch 1 is really hard because you put your gear in the only good holds. The 6 5.10 pitches are all sustained and physically and emotionally draining, but I was pretty much climbing at my limit on all that. Routefinding is a little tricky higher up. Break it into 4 pitches from the beckey tree, the last one being on the fat ledge before the final 5.9 crack. I learned my lesson on fine line and had heinous rope drag trying to push it to the top. Courtney Pace
Joined Mar 18, 2010
139 points
Oct 12, 2012
Why I do it...
Good Stuff keep it coming. kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Joined Apr 21, 2008
49 points
Oct 12, 2012
Amazing, but very difficult and sustained (sandbagged) for the grades MFL
From Sandy, UT
Joined Sep 3, 2012
2 points


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