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Dire Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conn Route T 
Engagement, The S 
Impeachable Offense T 
Punching In A Dream S 
Questionable Ink T 
Snakebite Evangelist S 
Unsorted Routes:

Dire Spire Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.88032, -103.4617 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,539
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 2, 2002
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Mark Rafferty and John Lang working on a ground up...

Check NPS for Closures

Description 

Dire Spire is the impressive spire that looks like an evil pitchfork just past Mt Rushmore. There are a few sport routes on it, but the only way to tag the summit is an old-fashioned Needles runout pitch. This is my favorite summit at Rushmore.

Getting There 

Park in a pullout below the spire, and bushwhack up to the base. This is one of the worst approaches at Rushmore, though it still doesn't take more than 20 minutes or so. Be careful not to stray into the signed off limits area - doing so will get you a huge fine and will probably get the area closed.

Climbing Season

For the Emancipation area.

Weather station 0.7 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dire Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dire Spire:
Conn Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
The Engagement   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dire Spire

Featured Route For Dire Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Dire Spire from the road.  The engagement goes up ...

The Engagement 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Dire Spire
Super classic Rushmore 5.10 that may rival 'Deja Vu Prophecy'. Great exposure way above the highway on a steepening slab. Start in a short dihedral on a big ledge just left of a large block that sits at the bottom left corner of the overhanging orange face. Be careful of loose blocks! Finger to hand size gear is nice to have for reaching the first bolt. Link the bolts straight up, right of crescent arete, to a small point. From here you could finish out the Conn route to the top or rap into 'Sna...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Dire Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: My buddy Tony topping out on Dire Spire.
My buddy Tony topping out on Dire Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dire Spire from the Middle Marker summit
Dire Spire from the Middle Marker summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Dire Spire and George
Dire Spire and George
Rock Climbing Photo: Dire Spire Sunset
Dire Spire Sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Back Side of Dire Spire
BETA PHOTO: Back Side of Dire Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Dire Spire from the highway.  Snakebite Evangelist...
BETA PHOTO: Dire Spire from the highway. Snakebite Evangelist...

Comments on Dire Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Dewell
May 8, 2003
Is 'Snakebite Evangelist' open? With the closings and everything around the monument? What kind of gear does it take? How many bolts? Isn't there a funky anchor to belay off of? Anyone?


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