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Prospect Point Pinnacle
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Dire Prospects (aka Unnamed 5.10a) 
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Dire Prospects (aka Unnamed 5.10a) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Tom Mulholland on Aug 22, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Its got eye appeal, anyway.

Description 

This is a short, though cruxy, climb behind the Prospect Point Pinnacle. The guidebook description: Overhang with two cracks above.

The route begins under a low, deep overhang. Begin with an undercling and a sidepull. A nut can be placed from the ground, and another can be placed from the first move. After this, protection is difficult/impossible, as all those beautiful-looking finger pods are actually flaring downwards and outwards.

A series of liebacks and hand bumps leads to a couple weird crimps, then the route follows easy (5.6) blocks to the top. An OK cam can be placed in the obvious large crack near the top.


Location 

It is Route #9 in Sven's guide under Prospect Point Rampart. From the West Bluff Trail where you can see Prospect Point Pinnacle, walk down and around onto the highest platform. There are several ~25 ft. climbs here.


Protection 

Standard rack. Offsets recommended. Don't be surprised if you only place 2-3 pieces.



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