Dippy Diagonal is a nice hand jam crack located west of the Keyhole below the South Platform. Climb up crack about 3 feet right of the inside corner (Kenosis, rt# 63). The wall gets steeper toward the top of the crack. Either stop at the large ledge or continue up to the top on Kenosis.
A very well protected lead indeed as is Kenosis as well, but I would characterize the crack as more hand size than finger.
By Ian Schmit Nov 6, 2006 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Definitely a hand crack. Great stances every few feet to place gear. Protects well with nuts and hexes. Excellent moderate lead.
By Paul Huebner From: Portage, WI Aug 6, 2007 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
The first time I climbed this route, I led it on-sight and it felt a little stiffer than 5.7. Now after TRing it several times I agree that it's Devil's Lake 5.7. For new leaders, Kenosis 5.4 the inside corner right to the left is a good beginner's lead and you can set up TR and play on Dippy after you top out.
I was actually headed there for TM overhang, but felt like leading something instead. I can climb 5.10 pretty comfortably, but I haven't lead anything over 5.9 yet. I will get back there for TM overhang for sure. My buddy still wants to do Dippy Diagonal after I told him how good it was.
We were able to link a three pitch climb starting with Dippy, and ending with Angel Crack. Super fun little alpine adventure with lots of options to explore.
By Tradoholic Oct 1, 2011 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
I hammered out a stuck #3 C4 the other day on this and it reminded me that I see quite a few people never clipping runners to their cams, just one biner to the cam sling. Do that often and your cam will eventually walk and get stuck.
To the owner of the #3, it's hammered to death but still functional, I think I'm going to send it into BD for strength testing.